Converting GT Tail Lamps to LED (Page 2/3)
darbysan FEB 16, 11:00 AM
Like others, I modified the housing to allow the LED's to fit. I used a round grinding stone to open up the hole. Use Red where the lens is Red, Amber for amber lenses, White for white or clear lenses for best possible light. Makes a big difference on how bright they are. Think of a red lens as a filter only allowing the red component of light to pass through. If you have a white bulb behind it, then maybe 90% of the light is blocked by the lens (only the red wavelengths get through).

Also, if you should convert to Electronic Cruise control, you will need to modify the rear lights to get the cruise to work. Needs a ground interrupt, or just use one old style incandescent bulb in the brake circuit. THe LED's act like a capacitor and hold just enough electricity that the Electronic Cruise thinks the brakes are still on.

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'87 GT , '00 3800 Series II SC, 4t65e, Vue Power Steering. (SOLD)

Dennis LaGrua FEB 16, 11:17 AM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

All LEDs are made to meet RoHS and use Lead Free Solder that often fails. Then add most are crap on top of that. Then add even if you find good quility, LEDs can't handle very noisy power in a car w/ spikes etc. Then add White LED Is Not same as White Tungsten and behind Color Lenses can cause many issues some covered in my Cave, LED poisoning Red LED often not = to Red bulbs and even Red bulbs can have same issue behind Red lenses.

What not covered is most use Cold/Cool White, Color Temp > 4500°K and makes light output shift colors so Red Lenses look pink to purple and scream has illegal light to cops. Same problem w/ fools that use Purple Gems in taillight lenses etc. in "the old days" to give cops a reason to stop you.

Most say Cree are Counterfeit. But Even Real Cree products have many to all of the problems above.




That's what you think. Then why are 100% of all new vehicles coming with LED lighting and they are all made in the same country If I look at the lights on my Chrysler there are probably 200 or so surface mounted devices and no failure in the three that I have owned thru the years. All I know is that compared to incandescent bulbs the LED's are brighter but an electronic flasher must be used.
I'd say this test looks pretty go to me and thats before I painted the interior housing bright silver



This is going to be part of my new Fiero C4 rear tail light panel install

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 02-16-2020).]

Tony Kania FEB 16, 11:51 AM

quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:


How did you get those LED array units to fit the Fiero light sockets. The first ones pictured here do not fit in. The ridge between the base and the circuit board will not pass past the plastic housing.




Mine have always fit in? I see now you have a difficult time getting the sockets to seat.

Cheap crapolla. Again, not your fault. We are fed junk parts to replace our worn units. Rebuilding the front suspension of my F150 currently. I have returned parts because of quality. One lower ball joint was already rusted inside. Quality is a fart in the wind.


Dennis, why not look into a different style lighting? Perhaps a board with LED's in the pattern you want? Just the single socket will give you that single socket look for life. With that lens, you will always be able to tell it is a bulb in there. Something to think about. Not adding work for you.

[This message has been edited by Tony Kania (edited 02-16-2020).]

pmbrunelle FEB 16, 12:13 PM

quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
That's what you think. Then why are 100% of all new vehicles coming with LED lighting and they are all made in the same country If I look at the lights on my Chrysler there are probably 200 or so surface mounted devices and no failure in the three that I have owned thru the years.



I'm not sure I would compare the results of tier 1 suppliers following some automotive quality methods (such as IATF 16949, PPAP, etc) vs. things sold in the rice aisle at Autozone.


quote
Originally posted by theogre:
All LEDs are made to meet RoHS and use Lead Free Solder that often fails.



Of course SnPb is the best; that's what I use for my personal repairs. But I don't know of any warranty problems that are related to SAC305 solder at my work.
hnthomps FEB 16, 01:43 PM
Dennis,

I have converted three of my four Mera tail/stop lights to LEDs because the standard bulbs eventually melt/distort the bulb housing. I have the materials to do the fourth one and may complete that conversion in a month or so. I used LEDs fro West Coast Cougar Classic and have been happy with them so far. I did have to remove a little bit of material from the inside of the socket to get the LEDs in them, but that was not difficult with my Dremel and a stone. No housings have melted since the conversion and I am pleased with the LEDs as of this date. Note that I did need to remove the two conventional flashers and install LED compatible flashers that i picked up from Auto Zone for less than $10 each. Let me know if you want specific model numbers for the LEDs or just take a look at the WCCC web site to select the appropriate ones.

Nelson
cvxjet FEB 16, 04:39 PM
I converted two of my four tail light bulbs to LED- Bought them at Pepboys approx' 10 years ago...Installed one and immediately noticed that, in combination with a normal bulb, it gave the effect of sequential turn indicator lights. So I installed the two LEDs in the inner placement and left the regular bulbs in the outer (the LED bulbs turn on and off much quicker than incandescent bulbs).

Yes, it also affects how the brake lights come on....

They still work....after 10 years of semi-daily driving.

Note; I have an 1985 SE V6- but 15 years ago I swapped in a 88 GT rear deck and quarters- using my 85 TL harness, modifying the (Broken) 88 GT tail lights so the sockets fit in the red area (Hate Yellow tail lights!)
theogre FEB 16, 04:58 PM

quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
That's what you think. Then why are 100% of all new vehicles coming with LED lighting and they are all made in the same country If I look at the lights on my Chrysler there are probably 200 or so surface mounted devices and no failure in the three that I have owned thru the years. All I know is that compared to incandescent bulbs the LED's are brighter but an electronic flasher must be used.
I'd say this test looks pretty go to me and thats before I painted the interior housing bright silver
CLICK FOR FULL SIZE

This is going to be part of my new Fiero C4 rear tail light panel install

Keep self-justifying your mods all you like...
1. You're comparing aftermarket crap to OEM units that are Build to Meet OEM Specs for Quality etc. IOW complete statement.
2. So many Car's w/ OEMs LED often have failed In and Out of the Warranty period often for same reason(s). Pius and more have iffy Taillights and when fail out of warranty or Denied and cops ticked or failed inspection... Getting replacement thru Dealers can cost Hundreds of $ Each because LEDs are often sealed/bonded to the lens etc.and have to replace the whole assembly then add whatever time/cost to replace... Many are very hard to remove and replace plus often have to remove trim etc not made to remove w/ risk of wrecking them.
Even New Trucklite etc Standard light sizes like 4" and 6" Round made to meet FMVSS use by Many Truck brands have failed only in a few years. Example: T-L PN 44551R 4" Round sells $60 - $90 Each. T-L Claim has lifetime warranty but many ways that warranty gets Denied/Voided plus doesn't cover Cost/Time to replace them even when you get free replacements.
3. Doesn't matter What red lenses are from. Most LED will never match light output colors for Most cars using Tungsten bulbs and more so LED > 4500°K "white" units.

Post your Picture doesn't mean or prove anything. Pictures like this often lie for many reasons even when user can't edit them. By the time everyone here sees it the UL and DL to whatever screen can change the view of them just because monitor type, model and settings. It gets far worse when other re-post them like blue or whatever color dress crap last years even MSM reported on.

Most aftermarket units use bare minimum to regulate power to the LED w/ most are just resistors. Worse Many are "Canbus Error Free" that have builtin "high watt" resistors that cook them to death and that if they only cook.
Example: Smokin' hot CANbus LED lamps. (230C in open air.) YT
That 194 LED in Fiero Markers will fry themselves and try cooking the fixture and socket too.
theogre FEB 16, 05:25 PM

quote
Originally posted by pmbrunelle:
Of course SnPb is the best; that's what I use for my personal repairs. But I don't know of any warranty problems that are related to SAC305 solder at my work.

Does your product(s) have to survive < 0°F to > 180°F for storage and operating temps plus get vibrated to get hammered driving on the roads for years? How long is the Warranty? Have you read the Warranty to find out the many ways the Warranty is Voided? Example: Truck-lite has sections to void their warranty including electric noise/spikes/surges in the vehicle will void it and many of the products have builtin surge protection.

Many Aftermarket LEDs and others are make w/ whatever solder is cheap just to meet RoHS. Then add many are "Canbus" LEDs w/ resistor that cook them.
Many Computers, Game boxes, and more have problems crack joints, tin whiskers and other problems because of RoHS. Is why so many will try to "Re-flow" an expensive board trying to "follow" DIY direction to do it on YT etc.

Even if you get units w/ "Good" RoHS joints... The LED are often crap and just one fails then rest are dark now or soon will be.

Sylvania and others now make LEDs hind behind "off road use only" crap too. Might be "Better" made in most to every way but can same problems w/ "canbus error free" etc.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 02-16-2020).]

Tony Kania FEB 16, 05:31 PM
Great looking tail light panel!

qwikgta FEB 16, 06:14 PM
If an LED bulb burns out, just buy another one. Problem solved.