My First Fiero Project (Page 2/2)
wftb JAN 01, 10:59 AM
For what it is worth, if you can get a donor car that runs and you can drive it for a few hundred miles to see if the engine is solid, you can skip the rebuild. I am not a stranger to rebuilding engines but it is just so much easier, cheaper and quicker not to do a rebuild. The 3800sc is proven to be one of the most reliable engines GM ever built.

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86 GT built 2.2 ecotec turbo
rear SLA suspension
QA1 coilovers on tube arms

KennyG JAN 02, 09:35 AM
Now you have me thinking. I haven't picked up the 3800 yet but it has been removed from a wrecked car. Supposed to be in good condition but it's a pig in a poke. Supposed to have 175K on it, which is why I'm assuming I will have to rebuild it, but maybe the best bet would be to do the swap and see how it runs, then pull it if needed. In any case, I will pull the pan, valve covers, etc to take a look.

Not sure why a 3800 SC would be a more difficult build than any other modern engine? Any issues with seals or internal parts wear?
wftb JAN 02, 10:14 AM
It is basically just a pushrod V6 to me pretty simple. Go on youtube and do a search of somebody rebuilding one and you can learn it all ahead of time. But I would mount it in the cradle first and run a fuel line to it and see how it runs first. Rebuilt or not you still have to mount it in the cradle. The youtube videos are great, just watched a guy tear down a PorscheM97 engine.

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86 GT built 2.2 ecotec turbo
rear SLA suspension
QA1 coilovers on tube arms

Spadesluck JAN 03, 02:17 PM

quote
Originally posted by KennyG:

Now you have me thinking. I haven't picked up the 3800 yet but it has been removed from a wrecked car. Supposed to be in good condition but it's a pig in a poke. Supposed to have 175K on it, which is why I'm assuming I will have to rebuild it, but maybe the best bet would be to do the swap and see how it runs, then pull it if needed. In any case, I will pull the pan, valve covers, etc to take a look.

Not sure why a 3800 SC would be a more difficult build than any other modern engine? Any issues with seals or internal parts wear?



I have no experience rebuilding one honestly, but I am under the same line of thinking it can not be any more difficult than a modern motor. With that said others have had difficulties rebuilding them, there is a thread or two here that says as much. I asked a similar question about rebulding one when i was looking at getting a 3800SC (deal fell apart) and I got similar responses. Your miles may vary.

[This message has been edited by Spadesluck (edited 01-03-2020).]

KennyG JAN 09, 04:10 PM
I'm starting to get into this and finding some oddities. This is a base model 4 cylinder automatic, but the rear fascia, according to the shop manual I have, is a GT. It has two exhaust cutouts, small tail lights in the lower fascia and it fastened at the top with vertical fasteners into the space frame. (See the photo above) Now I'm wondering if it got hit in the back at some point and had the fascia replaced.

Is there any trick that allows removal of the plastic blind fasteners for the body parts or do they just have to be cut off and replaced?

I'm finding a lot of surface rust, as expected, but the only damaged part currently seems to be the plate that runs under the radiator.
wftb JAN 09, 05:01 PM
The blind fasteners have a centre pin that you pry out(about 1/2",not all the way out) and then you can just pull them out. If they are the ones I am thinking of. There are also plastic rivets that are not reusable. Maybe you have a rear fascia from an 85 GT ?
RWDPLZ JAN 09, 05:11 PM

quote
Originally posted by Habanera Hal:

Looks like some kind of Trans Am spoiler?

Actually, I kind of like the color.



No, the Trans Am spoiler is 1 piece, and the mounting points are further apart:



This looks more like a JC Whitney or similar aftermarket spoiler from the 80's or 90's.

The rear fascia on your car is from and 87-88 coupe or Formula, not the GT. If the car is an 88, that is the original/correct rear bumper. You should be able to access the fasteners after removing the tail lights, they should pop off with a screwdriver or pliers if they installed it with the same fasteners as what it originally came with.

If the car was originally blue, it's an 87. The VIN will tell you the year for sure. The RPO code sheet will also give you the original paint code.

Frame rot on Michigan cars typically starts at the upper rear frame rails
KennyG JAN 14, 10:09 AM
Well, some progress on this. The frame is rusty, but nothing like rust through. I've got it far enough apart to get a decent look at the upper rear frame rails and they are solid. It looks like the only rust throughs are the pan under the radiator, the battery box, and both sides of the trunk. All that looks like relatively simple sheet metal weld in, so it's all doable. Next step is to drop the engine cradle so I can get to everything.

I've adjusted my plans a bit. I'm going to proceed with the frame derust/encapsulate, the suspension rebuild/upgrade and the body repair. Also the interior repair. Since the 4 cylinder engine/transmission are OK, I will probably reinstall it after everything else is fixed to get the car on the road. Then I will start working on the 3800SC swap. I've got the 3800 but it can sit in the corner until the rest is taken care of.