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| I hooked my battery up backwards in my 1988 Fiero Formula (Page 2/5) |
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Division006
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APR 06, 06:13 PM
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I need a Computer guys ^.^
1227170 is what the Comp says.
Serv# 1227170
863402 M722304611
16083402
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theogre
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APR 06, 06:28 PM
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save the PROM(s) inside.
You need that installed in "new" ECM.
Also See my Cave, ECM Heat[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 04-06-2018).]
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Division006
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APR 07, 12:45 AM
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No, everything is fine in cockpit. No SES light AT ALL !. It just does what it normally does when i stick the key in and turn it when it comes to all these other guages. It definitely does not flash and do it's thing. SES light is dead, i should have noticed that. The vehicle is like trying to start but stops like goes, " Hmmpphhff " click kinda, just one click. It has been turning over and trying to run, but no fuel pressure. It is like telling me, " My solenoid is fried on my starter please help " I can almost hear her saying that. Very interesting because the negative terminal goes down to the Solenoid I think. [This message has been edited by Division006 (edited 04-09-2018).]
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Patrick
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APR 07, 12:51 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Division006:
Very interesting because the negative terminal goes down to the Solenoid I think.
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No, it better not.
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olejoedad
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APR 07, 08:01 AM
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Patrick, I will...
| quote | Originally posted by Division006:
No, everything is fine in cockpit. No SES light when it comes to anything irregular. It just does what it normally does when i stick the key in and turn it, it then flashes and does its thing like it normally does. Everything is fine as far as I know. The vehicle is like trying to start but stops like goes, " Hmmpphhff " click kinda, just one click. It is like telling me, " My solenoid is fried on my starter please help " I can almost hear her saying that. Very interesting because the negative terminal goes down to the Solenoid I think. |
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The solenoid has, like, two wires attached to it.
- Small diameter purplewire that carries the +12VDC START signal from the ignition switch
- Large diameter wire that is always HOT with +12VDC from battery POSITIVE post[This message has been edited by olejoedad (edited 04-07-2018).]
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steve308
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APR 07, 10:00 AM
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Division006
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APR 07, 04:41 PM
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Whomever sells me the cheapest ECM for a 1988 Pontiac Fiero Formula, 3 speed Automatic, I just want to say you are badass. Once my car is running, I will give you the supposedly fried ECM. Not sure if it's re programmable though. I might as well order a steering wheel puller and a new Ignition Switch Harness Connector along with a new key tumbler right guys?
So far I got a PM from
"Dennis LaGrua" he has offered to give me a reprogrammed AC Delco ECM for 25$ plus 8 for shipping, which seems reasonable. I wonder if it will work in my car? Should i go for it? Does it matter how many speeds he had? I guess the PROM chip carries that. Forgot about that, anyways so far he has given me badass prices on a ECM. Nobody has ever done that for me. Thanks Guys. Still investigating this ECM, I don't want to mess up the car buying wrong ECM.[This message has been edited by Division006 (edited 04-07-2018).]
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olejoedad
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APR 07, 05:11 PM
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Dennis won't do you wrong, he is a good guy.
There is no need to replace your ignition switch, or key tumbler.
Keep asking questions, we can walk you thru this.
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Division006
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APR 07, 06:29 PM
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Ok, Alternator tested good at O'Reilys. I don't think I had the key on for very long to do much dmg. I remember trying to start it, then immediately turned key off and went to back and D/C Battery. I do remember when I first hooked it up, incorrectly, the 2 wires by the C500 box that had fuselinks sort of smoked for one tiny millisecond, then they were hot for a bit. I did not run 12 volts through, plus another 12 by jumping etc, so I don't think I fried very much hopefully. Tmw, I am going to do a Parasitic test as suggested by Ogre with a friend to help me. I checked all the fuses and they are fine. They look a bit old so I'm thinking of replacing them. I will look above the fusebox and see if anything melted, but I don't think anything did. I cannot find a Sure Grip tool that can like clamp the door button because of the weird location so I am going to cut those wires to that button so the interior light doesn't turn on in the middle of testing etc. I have been looking around for any other melted wires and nothing so far. I have a custom fiberglass middle console from someone who made them on here from like 15 years ago, so I don't have issues with overheating with the ECM when it comes to Air Ogre >.< [This message has been edited by Division006 (edited 04-07-2018).]
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Division006
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APR 07, 08:15 PM
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I did a check with Multimeter. In Milliamps amp test it then reads like .040 constant then bounces to .033 or .032 then back up to .040, then sometimes .041 and .042. I haven't touched fuses, i just did a check with a good Battery in car using Multimeter. On the 10 amp scale it says .02 constant and sometimes bounces to .03 but not often. I put key in and try to check stuff, and the SES light is dead. Does not flash like it used to. It seems as though my ECM is fried. Is that what that means? [This message has been edited by Division006 (edited 04-07-2018).]
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