Clutch change by tilting the cradle (Page 2/2)
Doug85GT JUL 07, 12:09 PM

quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:

Hanging the drivetrain by the engine with a bridge is by far the easiest way to service the clutch.
No need to drain fluids, disconnect wiring, etc.
Unbolt the exhaust, pull the axles (on the 88 this is more difficult due to the suspension design, we usually hang the calipers and pull the lateral links, trailing arms and sway bar links, leaving the stuts and knuckles as one unit), undo the drivetrain mounts and then drop the cradle out.
The trans can then be hung off a cherry picker and removed. The cherry picker also helps to hold the trans when resplining into the clutch hub.
Good luck with your project!



Are there any write-ups on this method and/or pictures? I am not sure what the bridge is or how it is holding the engine up.

It sounds like a better way to do it.
Dennis LaGrua JUL 07, 12:52 PM
Joes method is probably the mechanics way to do it, but I've always dropped the engine cradle down when doing clutch work, as I found clutch installation easier to do. This method has always taken me 8-10 hours to complete so Joe's method may win out on repair time. A few extra steps are needed like disconnecting throttle cable, fuel lines, harness and detaching the A/C compressor (and hanging that). In both methods axles must be pulled, cables, mounts, struts, slave cylinder disconnected, calipers removed and hung. Just make sure that you grease the hub that the throwout bearing slides on and make sure that you use new axle nuts and tighten to 200ft lbs.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

olejoedad JUL 07, 01:32 PM
We have the equipment to do it, so we use it.
Clutch R&R is about 5 hours.
Perk JUN 19, 06:18 PM
The aforementioned link does not work. Is there a step-by-step guide on tilting the cradle? I need to do a clutch change. Thanks!
Blacktree JUN 21, 06:57 PM

quote
Originally posted by olejoedad: Hanging the drivetrain by the engine with a bridge is by far the easiest way to service the clutch.


I agree with this. I also like to leave the exhaust and rear suspension attached to the cradle... drop the whole ensemble onto a furniture dolly and roll it out of the way.
fieroguru JUN 21, 09:25 PM

quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:

Hanging the drivetrain by the engine with a bridge is by far the easiest way to service the clutch.
No need to drain fluids, disconnect wiring, etc.



Agreed.
I made a fiero specific support bar for this.

Notorio JUN 24, 11:40 PM
I can see what is supporting the back of the bridge but what is solid enough up front to take all that weight?
Dennis LaGrua JUN 28, 05:45 PM

quote
Originally posted by Notorio:

I can see what is supporting the back of the bridge but what is solid enough up front to take all that weight?



All the weight is hung from the engine hangars to the hooks on the bar shown in fieroguru's post. If you look at it, the design of his support bar is special as it distributes the weight over a significantly large area on both the wheelhouse and the fender support. This may be ideal for Fieros with the Getrag as that transmission only weighs about 70 lbs., the 2.8L about 350lbs. .

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

fieroguru JUN 28, 06:06 PM

quote
Originally posted by Notorio:

I can see what is supporting the back of the bridge but what is solid enough up front to take all that weight?



Is is designed specifically for the Fiero chassis and can be used on pretty much any engine swap and transmission (the issue with autos is lowering them and lifting them back into place - but a cherry picked can be used). Some would require drilling new bolt holes to reposition the bar fore/aft to line up with the driveline centerline or to move the hook placement side to side to match engine length.

There is a stud that fits in a hole in the strut tower to lock the side brace into position. At the front there are welded on tabs that sit on top of the upper frame rails. Once you bolt the centerbar to the side supports, it can't slip out of place or be removed until the bar to brace bolts are removed on one side.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 06-28-2019).]