IMSAperation (Page 2/4)
BrittB JAN 29, 08:25 PM
Don't forget to use the correct amount of hardener for your resin, I measure by weight. It's pretty simple, with resin go 1% by weight and gelcoat go 2% by weight. Another way to think of it is like this, 100 grams of resin add 1 gram of hardener, 100 grams of gelcoat add 2 grams of hardener. For mold release I like 3 coats of mold release wax, then a coat or two of PVA.

. I always do one layer of epoxy glass over white insulation foam or the blue stuff if I can find it and the epoxy won't attack it. After you glass the foam you can use bondo to shape it and then primer. Wet sand the primer up to either 400 or 600 grit sandpaper and your ready for mold release for the mold. Brush or roll one the gelcoat and let it cure then you will want to glass on some veil over the resin and let that cure. After it cures go back and look for air bubbles and voids and cut the out with a utility knife and you ready for either 3/4oz or 1 1/2 oz mat cloth. I build up multiple layers to get it up to 1/4" thick and let it cure. You don't have to build it all up at one time but you will have to prep sand the cured stuff if you do. Be sure to use either laminating resin or vinylester resin for the mold but it only needs enough to wet it out, don't use too much as it's a waste and only ends up costing you more money. Resin by itself is very weak and adding more will ony make it look bad and gain weight. You should build frame work for the mold to keep it straight and glass it on before you remove the mold from the master. This will help keep it true and if you do it right will double as a work stand to keep the mold steady as you laminate the production parts.

This should get you fiberglass molds good enough to get to pull a few copies and if they are really good, sell a few!
LornesGT JAN 30, 11:34 AM
How hard will it be to get that foam back off the paint?
BrittB JAN 30, 08:10 PM
I use three layers of professional grade masking tape over the area I'm working on. You can work right on top of it and when it comes time to remove the work it comes right off the surface. Just don't sand away on it as it won't stand much sanding action.
SCCA FIERO NOV 30, 08:58 AM
Keeping out of the archives. I work on it when I can and have made some progress. This is not easy!
SCCA FIERO NOV 30, 09:01 AM
For future use. (Ha, got a flood control thing)
SCCA FIERO NOV 30, 09:03 AM
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[This message has been edited by SCCA FIERO (edited 04-21-2022).]

IMSA GT NOV 30, 10:35 AM
I know I've asked you in the past but I don't remember your answer.....are you running adapters with the current wheels of were they custom made to fit the 5x100 pattern with the proper offset?
SCCA FIERO NOV 30, 07:01 PM
Current wheels are made by Billet Specialties and are 5x100 and hub centric, no adapters. Rears are 15x10 and 0 offset, front are 15x8 and 30 offset.
IMSA GT NOV 30, 07:44 PM

quote
Originally posted by SCCA FIERO:

Current wheels are made by Billet Specialties and are 5x100 and hub centric, no adapters. Rears are 15x10 and 0 offset, front are 15x8 and 30 offset.



It's a shame because I don't believe Billet Specialties are doing custom wheels anymore. I tried to have them make a set for me and they declined to make a 5x100 in that width.
exoticse JAN 12, 10:30 PM
Love this build, can't wait to see it with the hre wheels and the widebody. How deep are the lips on the rear going to be ?