EVERYONE with a V6 please Read (Page 15/39)
Strange Brew JUL 11, 07:28 PM
Bump
WhiteFormula JUL 11, 10:41 PM
I cleaned the mounting points and eyelets for the lead from battery to chassis, from engine to hinge (braided wire), from firewall to hinge (on the driver's side), and one in the front under the passenger's side headlight.

The result? The tachometer is working better (not 100% correct, but it registers 600 or so at idle, and once above 1200 RPMs or so it seems pretty correct. This in contrast to not doing anything at all until at least 3000 RPM. The engine, while still misfiring a bit at idle, is buttery smooth when driving. Very nice indeed!

Voltmeter still flutters, temp gauge is still wrong, and the tach isn't 100%. I'm not sure why the temp gauge keeps reading so high (idiot light doesn't come on, yet the needle gets into the red zone before the fan kicks on), but whatever.

So it made a difference, that's for sure. And for what it cost, definitely worth it.

EngineerBill JUL 12, 02:41 PM
I've been having some trouble with my '87 GT and all of the parts in question seem good. I haven't had anytime to finish up the diagnostics for the last two months, but saw this post come alive and I think that may be my problem after looking at the grounds on my Fiero. I would like to put in GREEN heavy wire though since I have seen a lot of grounds on other electrical things in green. I do like the looks of the Red monster cable as well as the blue cabling in some of the pics above. When I locate a huge green cable and install it (hopefully this week) I will post a pic. Seems like ensuring a good ground is very important on these older babies and taken too much for granted.
865spd JUL 18, 03:35 AM
my fron't left blinker is still messed up, they won't flash but will come on in the day, but still not very bright, and when my lights are on they won't even come on. Could my ground have anything to do with this?
badger JUL 18, 01:41 PM

quote
Originally posted by $Rich$:

I wan't everyone to look at what else $Rich$ has done for his engine: Not only are the paths to ground twenty years old and corroded, but the vacuum lines have seen their day as well. Two decades does nothing for the flixibility and resiliance of rubber. Not to mention the legendary Fiero's hot engine compartment. Most of our engines are filled with tiny vacuum leaks around the crusty old hoses. (I bumped the cruise control vacuum solenoid last week, and one of the hoses exploded into dust.)

But $Rich$ has placed zip ties at the connection points! Get another ten years out of those hoses! I'm amazed at the variety of "rough idle" and "stumbling" and poor gas milage problems a vacuum leak will cause. Well, that, and it used to sound like 8 guys whistling in my engine bay. lol
$Rich$ JUL 18, 06:35 PM
ya, the old hoses dont fit tight anymore, so i zip tie'd them, it cured my code 32 from the EGR solinoid

another cheep fix if your too cheep to buy new vac. line... rubber washer fluid line is like 1/3 of the price of vac. line and it does the same job

D B Cooper JUL 20, 11:17 PM
I added a couple extra grounds (1 to engine block, 1 to rear decklid mount) and lightly dremmelled all the contact surfaces tonight. Night and day difference. No kidding, the windows and lights actually do seem to move faster, idle doesn't stumble when I turn the air on anymore, voltmeter reads more rock steady 14v and it does feel like it's running smoother....
good stuff

pulled the IAC and cleaned too. Wasn't too grimy, but I do think it helped.

I think I'm gonna try driving it to work tomorrow (100 miles r/t on I94). It's tough to trust it, but wtf ? wish me luch....


'86 GT - 62k miles

[This message has been edited by D B Cooper (edited 07-20-2005).]

$Rich$ JUL 21, 12:11 AM
its prooven to work, and nearly a free mod, everyone should do it, even if your fiero is low mileage!!


it works... plain and simple!!

JCorn JUL 21, 12:27 AM
I actually got my car because of a bad ground issue. When I went to buy the car the guy said there was nothing wrong with it and had a long list of parts replaced and work done to it w/ receipts to boot. I had driven all the way to Louisville, KT to get the car. Took a short test drive and paid for the car and started the drive home. Shortly after getting on the H-way the bucked. It would buck if I tryed to hold a steady speed. If I varied the trottle it would run fine. So I get the car home and replace the TPS. No help. Well I looked at or replaced all the usuall suspects for this type of problem. No help. I went to the internet to see if I could find an answer. After going over lots of posts I came across one that really fit the bill. I even said "This guy is having the exact same problem as me". He said in his post that he had stumped 3 GM mechanics and still could not fix the problem.I read on and realized I had tryed everything that people had suggested. I read on to find out that he said if couldnt get it figured out soon he was going to sell the POS. Thats when I noticed his screen name. It was the guy that sold me my Fiero. $#^%#^$*&%(*^()*^*(GJ *^R*^$^$&^$(*T% (&X(*T (I&T!!! Anyway after many days of driving around with a fluke meter hooked up to everything i could think of I figured out that every time it would try to go into open loop it would buck. Also realized that the O2 sensor would drop out at the same time. It turned out to be the 2 ground points from the main harness attached to the drivers side of the forward cyl head were loose. Tightened them up problem solved. Sorry for the long post but I had to tell somebody my story about the %^$&^$ that sold me his POS Fiero. LOL
$Rich$ JUL 21, 01:14 AM
so... who was it??
you should tell him what a simple fix it was and kind of rub it in a bit