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| $100 brake upgrade (Page 14/43) |
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TT Slick
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AUG 17, 09:30 PM
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I agree, if I had it to do over again I would use a RH, LH threaded coupling nut with jam nuts, then you can "dial-in" any length that works best.
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PaulJK
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AUG 17, 11:35 PM
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sure, sure ... NOW you tell me .
Before i welded, I mounted the booster with the stub sticking out then crawled under the dash and put the fiero rod on the brake pedal. I braced the pedal from underneath so that it was held in the "up" position. i swung the fiero rod upward to meet the S10 stub so the rods were side-by-side. I then marked the fiero rod, took it out and cut it to the proper length; used a dremel tool to make sure both rod ends would fit together flat.
I think the threading method would be easier but (for me) more expensive. I don't have a tap and die set. the threaded extensions above are both around $40. The welding job only cost $20. In addition, i think the welding is stronger (although most of the force should be down the length of the rod, not side to side). I think the one i have could stop a charging rhino . But everything i do for my kitcar i try to make bulletproof.[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 08-17-2007).]
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TT Slick
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AUG 18, 10:03 AM
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Well, you know what they say about hindsight, you look like your very close to getting this thing installed. Please do a follow-up post and let us know how it worked for you, mine worked great, I now have no problems what-so-ever with stoping power, again much thanks to Phil for getting this whole thing started.
P.S. One other thing that I did before I cut the rod, I hooked up the vacuum to the engine and started it to make sure the diaphragm was in the correct position when I measured the rod length for cut, just a afterthought.
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PaulJK
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AUG 18, 08:54 PM
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TTSlick - You know, i thought about the position of the S10 rod but it seemed tight and immovable when i got it so wasn't worried. Maybe these things "default" to the same "out" position. Thank you Very much for your interest in helping me through this . (+)
I have the full size blazer master cylinder (i think), beretta front brakes, fiero back brakes and now the S10 power booster with braided steel brake lines. After a 5 mile test ride, all i can say is "Phil, YOU are a GENIUS ". This is definitely the brakes the car should have come with. I think i probably have a little more pedal than i need (lot of stopping with very little pedal effort) but it's going to be a nice adjustment for me to make to my driving style.
I had a few scary moments prior to this instal where i applied the brakes and waited to find out when i would stop. A Very scary experience on wet roads, where the car seemed to go for a LONG ways before it stopped. I know you loose traction when the brakes lock up, and the stock fiero brakes would NEVER lock up but (unlike anti-lock brakes) just seemed to be weak, not efficient. Can you comment on this ?
PS. if i do this mod to another car, i'm gonna do it exactly the same way (MIG welding the rod). i feel VERY safe with that weld Also, if you HAVE to err on cutting the rod, it would be better to make it slightly too short than too long. A too long rod simply would not fit and you might compensate by shimming the booster bracket out . A rod too short, would just leave the pedal sit a little lower but you could re-adjust the brake light switch to accomodate i think.[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 08-19-2007).]
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PaulJK
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AUG 22, 10:42 PM
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I just wanted to report back, now that I have a few miles on this upgrade. WOW, is it nice ... one of the best things I've done to the car. No sense of "touchy-ness" just a sense of security, that the brakkes are there if i need them. Have not tried locking them up, but i hope i never have to ....
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Fieromaniac
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AUG 30, 02:11 AM
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i could get an 93 S10 Booster but i dont know if its the right one for this mod

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Hudini
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AUG 31, 08:12 AM
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The part numbers are different between the '93 and the '97 according to Rock Auto website.
EDIT: Looks like '95 is the first year using the #5471061 Cardone booster.[This message has been edited by Hudini (edited 08-31-2007).]
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Fieromaniac
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AUG 31, 11:14 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Hudini:
The part numbers are different between the '93 and the '97 according to Rock Auto website.
EDIT: Looks like '95 is the first year using the #5471061 Cardone booster.
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so thats a no = this booster wont work for the break upgrade ?
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Hudini
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AUG 31, 04:34 PM
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Can you take the master cylinder off and measure the booster? The numbers are posted above for the booster he used. You might have found another alternative for this upgrade. Someone has to be the first one to try it.
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solotwo
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SEP 02, 11:44 PM
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With Phils brake mod looking like it is the mod to do, I am wondering why some one hasnt found a source to make these with the proper rod installed. Orge mentioned that only a manufacturer or shop that has the capabilities to take the booster apart and reassemble should tackle this. Well why cant one of these manufacturers do this? I can see where a lot of Fiero people will be doing this. May be Rodney can add this to his list of products that he has available for us?
Just a thought. If I wasnt in school and had more time I would make some phone calls. I would probably get my son at MSU in mechanical engineering and project manager for the Formula SAE team to help his ole dad! He was brake manager last year.[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 09-02-2007).]
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