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| Poly Suspension Upgrade (all pics) (Page 13/16) |
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Boostdreamer
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SEP 01, 09:37 PM
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Raydar
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SEP 02, 06:26 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by benoitmalenfant:
....
SM might be wrong though.
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It's been discussed before. The manual is wrong.
The rear hubs (similar design and bolt size) I see are 62 lb.ft. I think that's what was decided on for the fronts.
(For comparison, my Trailblazer uses similar, although obviously larger hub/bearing assemblies. It specs at 77 lb. ft.)
You can try to tighten the fronts to 220 if you want, but I think they'll break long before that. 
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benoitmalenfant
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SEP 02, 08:10 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Raydar:
It's been discussed before. The manual is wrong.
The rear hubs (similar design and bolt size) I see are 62 lb.ft. I think that's what was decided on for the fronts.
(For comparison, my Trailblazer uses similar, although obviously larger hub/bearing assemblies. It specs at 77 lb. ft.)
You can try to tighten the fronts to 220 if you want, but I think they'll break long before that. |
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Well, another thing I just noticed. The conversion from NM to Lb/Ft is wrong as well:
260nm (Newton Meter) = roughly 191 lb/ft (not 220 lb/ft)
obviously someone read AND converted wrong back in 87 : 
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Ben
87 GT / 88 GT
84 Indy #1863
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benoitmalenfant
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SEP 02, 08:27 PM
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I just tried "untorquing" one of mine with my torque wrench (I know, I'm not supposed to do that, but I did it for the cause ) and at around 70 it started unscrewing.
So I guess 62ish is the right amount
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Raydar
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SEP 02, 11:11 PM
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Sorry. Hope I didn't come off sounding like an azz.
I just remember seeing this before. Thinking that they got the measurement confused with the one for the rear axle nut.
THAT one is ~200 lb.ft.
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benoitmalenfant
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SEP 03, 09:26 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Raydar:
Sorry. Hope I didn't come off sounding like an azz. |
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Not at all buddy, we're just discussing, it's all good and I think it's good someone points out the mistake in the book, will save the next guy from breaking a bolt while putting it back together!
| quote |
I just remember seeing this before. Thinking that they got the measurement confused with the one for the rear axle nut.
THAT one is ~200 lb.ft.
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A member of my local club thought they might have taken the measurement off a front wheel-drive assembly (cardan) where it would need to be torqued at around 200lb/ft.
Anyhow, 60-70 is what makes sense.[This message has been edited by benoitmalenfant (edited 09-03-2013).]
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PerKr
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MAR 08, 04:48 PM
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I'm putting my front end back together and didn't note which bolt went where. Having put it back together it didn't look right, I had the long bolt at the rear and the short at the front. So corrected that, long bolt up front, short in the rear. Still doesn't look right. I'm slightly puzzled.
I like to use washers at both ends to help avoid scratching any protective coating when tightening. Plus the zinc coated washers act as sacrificial anodes just in case. Anyway, with the long bolt up front, there's quite a bit of the bolt sticking out past the nut. Plus its tip is pointy just like the short one shown previously in this thread. I'm not very fond of having that pointy end as close to the rubber boot on the steering rack as it currently is. I could probably come up with a way of putting a plastic or rubber cap on it but still...
For the short bolt I feel it is a bit short. It's short enough that I chose not to have a washer at the bolt head but only at the nut just to make sure that all the threads would engage. Also, this bolt looks more like the long bolt shown previously. This wouldn't be much of a problem if I could find washers half as thick as the ones I have now (which are about 2.5mm, or 0.097-0.1 inch) but as it is I'm not really digging it.
any thoughts?
*edit: just measured the rear bolt (front is a bit harder to get to once it's in place) and it's about 3.4 inch. Did the length vary over the years? I wouldn't find it hard to believe that the bolts were installed without washers from the factory so the rear bolt was just long enough and the front bolt was installed the other way around so the length really didn't matter when building the car.[This message has been edited by PerKr (edited 03-08-2014).]
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MulletproofMonk
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MAR 30, 11:54 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by PerKr:
any thoughts?
*edit: just measured the rear bolt (front is a bit harder to get to once it's in place) and it's about 3.4 inch. Did the length vary over the years? I wouldn't find it hard to believe that the bolts were installed without washers from the factory so the rear bolt was just long enough and the front bolt was installed the other way around so the length really didn't matter when building the car.
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Just saw your post. I don't think that the bolts varied by years. You could always buy new bolts to replace them if you are careful enough to get the right grade bolt.
84-87 LOWER CONTROL ARM BOLTS & NUTS
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darbysan
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JUL 13, 01:11 PM
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Great Write-up. Doing mine now, and this is very handy.
A couple of comments: I buy the SuperLube in tubes for extra lubrication. Look for PTFE. I bought a second grease gun just for this grease ( use it for my 4-link arms in my other car).
The Front LOWER A-arm bolt was giving me fits as well, hitting the rubber sleeve on the steering rack. I finally thought " what happens if I turn the steering wheel all the way to the right ( for the driver's side bolt)", and YES, it worked. Moved the boot totally out of the way. Don't know yet if the same trick is going to work for the passenger side or not.
Edit: yes, moving the steering to the other side gave me room on the passenger side, enough room to even use an impact wrench!
For getting the bushings out, I use a 1/8" drill bit. I drill down into the rubber next to the inner bushing, and then try and rotate the drill around the bushing while it is running. Usually it will "walk" it's way around the inner bushing and pull it right out. Once the inner is out, do the same thing around the outer edge of the bushing. I might use a slightly larger drill bit size here. I did 4 yesterday, and 3.5 came out OK. One of the bushings was really "stuck" to the housing, so I had to use more extreme measures to get that one completely out.
Edit: after I read this thread a second time, I saw that someone else had also posted this idea. Sorry for repeating something that was already available.
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'87 GT in process, including GA / Seville brakes, Poly Suspension, '95 3800 Series 1 SC ( 225 hp ) T460e.[This message has been edited by darbysan (edited 07-13-2015).]
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MulletproofMonk
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NOV 10, 02:46 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by darbysan:
A couple of comments: I buy the SuperLube in tubes for extra lubrication. Look for PTFE. I bought a second grease gun just for this grease ( use it for my 4-link arms in my other car). |
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I just ordered more grease from Summit.
I got stupid and bought the big tube since I was doing way too many poly installs... My intent was to install zerg fittings, but never did.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptp-19-1751
But you can get a couple of the small tubes.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptp-19-1750
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