$100 brake upgrade (Page 13/43)
Phil JUL 31, 04:38 PM
My initial post on page one has the step by step instructions.
americasfuture2k JUL 31, 05:32 PM
pics of that push arm that was modified would be a good thing to have. stock fiero's, stock s-dime's, and the modified one. and how far does it need to be extended.
was it for a 2wd? would a 4x4 blazers be any better?

[This message has been edited by americasfuture2k (edited 08-06-2009).]

PaulJK AUG 08, 07:41 AM
Here's the RockAuto booster for the 1997 Blazer 2WD, # 5471061. The part # is the same for S-10 pickup and GMC Jimmy.



Here's the 4WD, # 5474822



The specs are the same but the 2wd is $97.79 and the 4wd is $135.79

Looks like maybe the vacuum fitting and the master cylinder mounting are different (?)

Per Phil's first post and roccofiero on page 3, the 2WD Blazer / S-10 pickup is the one to get.

By the way, the Rock Auto booster is made by Cardone. PepBoys, AutoZone, Kragen and NAPA also carry the Cardone, so it looks like Cardone has cornered the market

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 08-08-2007).]

PaulJK AUG 08, 07:50 AM
here's the pedal rod extension kit from jegs, # 908-4750 http://www.jegs.com/webapp/...0001_10002_130450_-1



Here's one from Summit, # SUM-760125 http://store.summitracing.c...855+115&autoview=sku



Hope this helps . NICE work Phil ....

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 08-08-2007).]

PaulJK AUG 17, 04:39 AM
I am to the point of attaching the fiero booster rod to the S10 rod.
here are the two boosters showing how much longer the fiero pushrod is than the S10 rod.


Even if you cut it close to the end, the remaining S10 shaft is still very short.


Since the S10 stub is so short, I am concerned about heating the rubber seals inside the S10 booster when i attach the fiero rod.

I got (3) metal sleeves that I plan to put inside each other and have welded to the fiero rod




Then i plan to slide the sleeved fiero rod over the S10 rod when the booster is installed in the car. I am thinking of even putting some JB Weld on the end where it attaches to the S10 rod.

Any comments from those that have done this mod ?

Thank You

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 08-19-2007).]

Hudini AUG 17, 08:32 AM
Is there something that would keep you from welding the S10 end of the rod first, then welding the Fiero end onto that? JB Weld on something like this makes me shudder.

[This message has been edited by Hudini (edited 08-17-2007).]

TT Slick AUG 17, 10:23 AM
I just used three welds spaced about 120 Deg. from each other at both ends of the sleeve. Please, put the JB weld away. Your almost there. Good Luck!

P.S. We used to wrap a wet rag around things we did'nt want to get hot, you could try it here to make yourself feel better.
PaulJK AUG 17, 12:43 PM
after i install the booster, the sleeved end will slip over the S10 stub and i can then attach it to the brake pedal. It will have no where to go, but the edge of the stub sitting in the sleeve will rub the inside of the sleeve as the brakes are used. i just thought the JB Weld would stop this slight movement and wear point.

I am concerned that Any welding on the short stub will transfer enough heat into the S10 booster to damage the rubber seals inside. I put a wet rag aroung the S10 stub while i cut the end off with a dremel tool but the base of the stub still got warm. I'd first weld the sleeve onto the fiero end - no heat transfer since it's off the booster; the booster would get heated when the sleeved end is welded to the stub.

Thanks for the (3) spot welds 120 degrees apart. This was "tack welding" done with wet rags (with no apparent damage to the rubber inside) or did you just weld to the short stub with no heat protection ? I'm guessing that everyone has been dealing with a short stub as shown in the pic above.

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 08-17-2007).]

PaulJK AUG 17, 05:20 PM
Well, my man at the muffler shop has a MIG welder and here's the finished product Maybe that 3rd sleeve was a little much, but better safe than sorry.



He explained that MIG is low temp (as far as welding is concerned), so i asked him to weld both ends. He did the fiero / sleeved piece first, cooled it, THEN welded it to the S10 stub. Although the stub was too hot to touch comfortably, we figured it was not hot enough to damage anything inside the booster because the lightweight foam surrounding the stub was not affected (the rusty brown color is just dirt).

[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 08-17-2007).]

jweisman AUG 17, 05:38 PM
Can't you just thread that booster rod after you cut it, then you can use those pedal rod extension's to get the length you need, I think that would be better then welding it together