Ecotec le5 Turbo 2.4 Build (Page 12/28)
4thfiero DEC 13, 05:57 PM
The battery hasn't been moved yet...they will move it to the front after the dyno tuning. The installed a positive terminal through the firewall behind the passenger seat? then u can run a wire from that terminal to the front and hook up the battery that way without running wires under the car. Also i can still hook up my stereo amp behind the passenger seat like i did before without running a power cable to the front battery. (Well i guess technically we are still...but the amp install will be easier)

I will have more pics once i get my car back this week sometime. I will post pics of all the work they did and the dyno chart. Also hoping to have a video of the engine running and revving, as well as some pulls on the highway. 9That one might have to wait till summer but yeah...)
4thfiero DEC 19, 06:18 PM
*update*

Dyno tuning is taking longer than expected. hasn't started yet. AFI is sending my mechanic a better base tune to work with. My tuner is hoping to have it tuned either tonight or by Monday for sure. He is going to send me a video of a dyno pull full throttle. I'll post it sometime between now and Monday.
4thfiero DEC 29, 06:58 PM
*Update*

Car made 275 wheel hp on the dyno today...should get between 320-350 wheel hp by Friday when im scheduled to get her back
jediperk DEC 29, 08:19 PM

quote
Originally posted by 4thfiero:

*Update*

Car made 275 wheel hp on the dyno today...should get between 320-350 wheel hp by Friday when im scheduled to get her back



How many PSI? What was the TQ numbers.

[This message has been edited by jediperk (edited 12-29-2014).]

4thfiero DEC 29, 08:29 PM
Im not sure yet. i just got a text from the dyno guy, he has horrible cell reception where the dyno is. I'll have a picture of the dyno sheet with all the info soon this week. (But i think we are aiming around 15 psi)
jediperk DEC 30, 02:09 PM

quote
Originally posted by 4thfiero:

Im not sure yet. i just got a text from the dyno guy, he has horrible cell reception where the dyno is. I'll have a picture of the dyno sheet with all the info soon this week. (But i think we are aiming around 15 psi)



16 psi is where the 2.0 LNF's make 260 HP/TQ at so with .4 liters more displacement and a 10.4:1 compression ratio vs the LNF's 9.2:1 you should be right around 300 HP at the wheels with a ton of TQ. You are really going to like this...
wftb DEC 31, 11:35 AM
Keep an eye on your intake temps .With higher boost , that becomes critical for stock pistons to survive .The LE5 intake will split wide open at 20 PSI so something to avoid if you manage to get the boost up there .Great dyno results so far .
4thfiero DEC 31, 06:18 PM

quote
Originally posted by wftb:

Keep an eye on your intake temps .With higher boost , that becomes critical for stock pistons to survive .The LE5 intake will split wide open at 20 PSI so something to avoid if you manage to get the boost up there .Great dyno results so far .



Yeah, still having issues getting the tach and speedo to read apparently with the LE5, all other gauges work though....but i do need a boost guage, air/fuel ratio and fuel pressure to monitor everything. But i dont want the car to look all cluttered with gauges. i know some ppl like that, but that's not my style) im looking into adding an IQ3 racepak Dash to replace the stock Fiero gauges in the dash. I can get all the gauges i want to run through that unit. (There is even a data logging version of the IQ3 for more money, so i can keep tuning and making small adjustments for weather) I have a magden M.1B computer that displays other gauges on an 8'' lcd screen via the OBD2 port. One of those gauges is the Intake temps. However im pretty sure if i remember correctly, i got a new intake manifold with my engine built to withstand way higher boost numbers. So i think im safe, but i'll double check, thanks for that.

The tuning issue we are running into now (and i would appreciate any advise or help) is tuning the engine for cold starting, like our famous canadian -40 winter cold starts....right now my car dyno'd at 301 wheel hp and i think 310ft pounds of torque if i remember correctly. They are just getting it to get there smoother which will be np. and all the numbers look good while on the dyno...but once my car goes outside into the cold even after my engine warms up...i might need to change the tune bcc the air fuel might change...ect...so i need to keep an eye on that. And i really want my car to cold start like any normal car...obv i'll let her idle and warm up like any other car, i just dont want my car to be useless if its really cold out and my nice new Fiero wont start bcc of the tune. But my tuners dyno is inside a heated garage and it's not the same...any advise on that?
nosrac DEC 31, 06:24 PM

quote
Originally posted by 4thfiero:


Yeah, still having issues getting the tach and speedo to read apparently with the LE5, all other gauges work though....but i do need a boost guage, air/fuel ratio and fuel pressure to monitor everything. But i dont want the car to look all cluttered with gauges. i know some ppl like that, but that's not my style) im looking into adding an IQ3 racepak Dash to replace the stock Fiero gauges in the dash. I can get all the gauges i want to run through that unit. (There is even a data logging version of the IQ3 for more money, so i can keep tuning and making small adjustments for weather) I have a magden M.1B computer that displays other gauges on an 8'' lcd screen via the OBD2 port. One of those gauges is the Intake temps. However im pretty sure if i remember correctly, i got a new intake manifold with my engine built to withstand way higher boost numbers. So i think im safe, but i'll double check, thanks for that.

The tuning issue we are running into now (and i would appreciate any advise or help) is tuning the engine for cold starting, like our famous canadian -40 winter cold starts....right now my car dyno'd at 301 wheel hp and i think 310ft pounds of torque if i remember correctly. They are just getting it to get there smoother which will be np. and all the numbers look good while on the dyno...but once my car goes outside into the cold even after my engine warms up...i might need to change the tune bcc the air fuel might change...ect...so i need to keep an eye on that. And i really want my car to cold start like any normal car...obv i'll let her idle and warm up like any other car, i just dont want my car to be useless if its really cold out and my nice new Fiero wont start bcc of the tune. But my tuners dyno is inside a heated garage and it's not the same...any advise on that?




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dobey DEC 31, 06:38 PM

quote
Originally posted by 4thfiero:
And i really want my car to cold start like any normal car...obv i'll let her idle and warm up like any other car, i just dont want my car to be useless if its really cold out and my nice new Fiero wont start bcc of the tune. But my tuners dyno is inside a heated garage and it's not the same...any advise on that?



Block heater? The air temperature shouldn't be a problem. The sensors should read appropriate values at the MAF and MAP for the air density at those temperatures. You just need to make sure the fuel isn't frozen in the line, and the fuel map tables in the ECM give the right amount of fuel for those sensor values.