
 |
| Overheating but not really? Air in system or other problem? Need help diagnosing (Page 11/14) |
|
Patrick
|
DEC 11, 02:55 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by cebix:
It's about 7mm in diameter.
I really have no idea what the hell that is but it's rubber.
|
|
Rubber? Are you sure? Judging from the size and shape of it and the "sealant" you found in your reservoir, I'd hazard to guess it's possibly a not fully dissolved Bar's Leak (or something similar) pellet.
I suspect your cooling system is still partially plugged up somewhere with this stuff.
| quote | Originally posted by cebix:
This is what I found at the bottom of the overflow tank:

Looks like sealant? No idea how much of that is in the system. The overflow hose also looks fishy and wasn't as tight as I would like at the rad fitting so going to replace it. Going to try to flush the radiator but have a feeling that the hoses under the car may be clogged with this stuff inside. Are they stainless steel? Is it safe to use NaOH to clean them inside? The radiator is aluminum so that's out of the question. Anyway looks like I have to overhaul the whole cooling system.
|
|
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 12-11-2019).]
|
|
|
cebix
|
DEC 11, 03:23 PM
|
|
It's still possible it is clogged I guess. God only knows what is hiding in that system. Are these the pellets you are talking about? That thing looks nothing like these.

It's a very thin hard brittle rubber kind of thing. Goes back to shape squeezed. More like a prescription pill in size and look.
|
|
|
Patrick
|
DEC 11, 03:33 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by cebix:
Are these the pellets you are talking about?
|
|
No. You'll notice that the product in my previously posted link looks nothing like that.
| quote | Originally posted by cebix:
It's a very thin hard brittle rubber kind of thing. Goes back to shape squeezed. More like a prescription pill in size and look.
|
|
Like a small vitamin/supplement capsule, right? Years ago I used a Bar's Leaks product with pellets (in a solution) which seemed to be similar.[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 12-11-2019).]
|
|
|
cebix
|
DEC 11, 03:49 PM
|
|
I searched for Bar's Leak pellets and thought that those are inside the bottle in the link you posted. If you're saying those look like stop leaks then it's highly probable that's it - I've never seen one personally.
Wonder how long was that stuff in the system and what else is in there. I've had the car since I registered here and this problem only showed up about two years ago I guess(?) and persisted through the engine rebuild. But I already flushed the system once fully and it was supposedly flushed during the rebuild too so I don't know how much can I get it flushed... Guess will have to watch out for that hose clogging up if anything else will unclog itself and find its way there.[This message has been edited by cebix (edited 12-11-2019).]
|
|
|
cebix
|
DEC 15, 12:12 PM
|
|
So the overflow hose clogged again. Didn't find any major evidence this time, just noticed the reservoir level stopped moving again and some crap in the tank. Decided to take the tank out again the next day after no driving.
So I leave the car for the night and in the morning there was a puddle of coolant on the passenger floor... Bypassing that is going to be probably the next thing to do until a new core arrives. So flushed the tank, was ready to start burping to see if I can see the heater core leak, pulled the tstat and its gasket looked like this:

Could too much pressure in the system have blown this? And the heater core probably too and who knows what else...
A question about burping... say the system's a little low on coolant. Will it ever fill itself up just through the overflow tank after some heat cycles and just filling that tank up will do the job or will the overall level never change and coolant has to be added to the system internally through the rad or thermostat openings anyway?
|
|
|
Gall757
|
DEC 15, 12:46 PM
|
|
|
Adding fluid to the overflow tank should be all that is needed to get the level right. Add to the low mark, heat cycle it, and add again if necessary.
|
|
|
Patrick
|
DEC 15, 04:05 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by cebix:
So the overflow hose clogged again. Didn't find any major evidence this time, just noticed the reservoir level stopped moving again and some crap in the tank.
|
|
What have you done about the radiator?
| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
Looks like the garage that supposedly did the "flush" did a crap job.
I've heard of people having huge problems with their cooling systems after way too much of that "stop-leak" has been added.
You'll probably need the radiator to be boiled out... or replaced.
|
|
|
|
|
fierosound
|
DEC 15, 04:22 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by cebix:
So the overflow hose clogged again. Didn't find any major evidence this time, just noticed the reservoir level stopped moving again and some crap in the tank.
|
|
Engine was rebuilt - so that it is/was "clean"... Obviously source of problem seems to be in the car and the contamination is just "moving around".
The cooling lines under the car are the low points where all the crap would collect. Drain all coolant, disconnect hoses at each end of cooling lines and pipes blast out with garden hose nozzle.
Disconnect heater core hoses at engine end, and flush through system with garden hose nozzle.
Take your radiator out, and flush it out. Maybe get a rad shop to clean it out.
Get everything back together and see what happens.
.------------------ My World of Wheels Winners (Click on links below)
3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 12-15-2019).]
|
|
|
cebix
|
DEC 15, 04:40 PM
|
|
Patrick, I haven't done anything yet to the radiator other than the full system flush about a month ago with the radiator connected but it seems there is still crap circulating. So yeah, probably it's finally time to get the radiator on the bench and flush it properly or just get a new one.
fierosound, I did a flush like you described about a month ago but I didn't take out the radiator.
About the heater core - I have AC and I see two variants available, a $25 aluminum Spectra one and a $35 APDI copper one. Which one do you guys recommend? Thanks[This message has been edited by cebix (edited 12-15-2019).]
|
|
|
Patrick
|
DEC 15, 05:07 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by cebix:
About the heater core - I have AC and I see two variants available, a $25 aluminum Spectra one and a $35 APDI copper one. Which one do you guys recommend?
|
|
I'm unfamiliar with the new copper ones, but the new aluminum heater cores are dimensionally a bit smaller in size. It's not really an issue, but just be aware that they don't fit as snugly as the original cores.
When you temporarily bypass the leaking heater core, do not restrict the coolant flow through the heater hoses. If you do, there's a chance the thermostat "arms" will collapse due to the added pressure (as reported Here)... and once they've been bent and straightened, they're never as strong.[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 12-16-2019).]
|
|

 |