Getrag transmission problem on low mileage Fiero GT (Page 11/17)
Moar FEB 05, 12:57 AM
These Stratus differential shims PN # 05222345 should fit: ID: 55.0 mm / OD: 61.5 mm
However, I can´t find them for only $2. (did you mean $20.-)

Furthermore, the same differential bearing races are used for 95-97 Dodge Stratus differentials.

[This message has been edited by Moar (edited 02-05-2016).]

hobbywrench FEB 05, 11:29 AM
Go to the site and see what I see. The prices jump all around from $1.81 to $24 each. Priced to encourage shim "paks" of cheaper thicknesses rather than one thick shim, or perhaps market demand for making up shim paks ? I guess what we really need is to test the availability . Last time Moar found a source GM could not ship the product which is discontinued. This source does have an 8xx tel number. Maybe Rodney can explain the crazy pricing.

Edit, Yes Moar, the Stratus tip is how I found the Chrysler site.

[This message has been edited by hobbywrench (edited 02-05-2016).]

sardonyx247 FEB 06, 03:54 AM
I just went to a dodge dealer, I think it was around $20, but you only need one.

Edit to add: measure your size and buy just the one you need, a whole kit is a huge waste of money.
I have a few myself form all the getrags I have taken apart, but I didn't have the one I needed when I upgraded my diff.

[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 02-06-2016).]

Moar FEB 06, 04:23 AM
Stratus shims (# 05222345): ID: 55.0 mm / OD: 61.5 mm
MG-282 shims (GM # 8672903/4/5): ID: 52.5 mm / OD: 62.1 mm

The Stratus shims are slightly different in diameter, but I think we can use them without any problems.
(shim thickness can be adapted by using a small belt grinder tool)
sardonyx247 FEB 06, 05:00 AM
I am pretty sure I used the model/year I provided above with no mod.
As that is what I remember finding IIRC and it is in my GT now.

[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 02-06-2016).]

Moar FEB 06, 05:26 AM
Thanks for this valuable information sardonyx247.

I´m sure this will help others with their transmission rebuilds in future when
all original Getrag MG-282 shims are completely out of stock everywhere.
Moar FEB 07, 02:15 PM
Axle stabilizer bearings

This weekend I have installed axle stabilizer bearings.

One of these stabilizer bearing came with a wrong axle shaft seal (with brass bearing shell).
I prefer OEM axle seals and removed the smaller seal from the stabilizer bearing:


My dad turned the stabilizer bearing (left one on the picture) in a lathe in order to increase the seal OD to 55.00 mm:


The stabilizer bearing on the left-hand side is the cheap one without oil groove and with excessive bearing clearance.
I have measured a relative clearance of 3.5 per mil which is 3.5 times more as the other bearing clearance of the other one!

Next I test fitted the higher quality stabilizer bearing (with oil groove) and have recognized that the position of
oil grooves was very unfavorable when the oil supply hole (marked in black) was aligned with the bearings oil bore.
Oil grooves were exactly placed on the high loaded zone (marked in green)!


In order to fix this I have drilled another oil supply hole between the two oil grooves which will improve oil flow trough the bearing and will place the grooves in a moderate stressed area:


After all this I started with the installation of the stabilizer bearings.

I decided to place the higher quality bearing on the bellhousing side, because on this side the longer driveshaft will be placed (which may generate higher radial forces):




On the other side I installed the brass stabilizer bearing:


You need extreme force to press these stabilizer bearing into the transmission case.
For me it was almost impossible with a small 1 kg hammer (biggest one I have found).
I´m recommending a hammer which weighs at least 1.5 kg or a hydraulic press.

However, after 1 hour hammering the job was done with a small 1 kg hammer.
(disadvantage: Your neighbors will get very angry )

[This message has been edited by Moar (edited 02-07-2016).]

hobbywrench FEB 07, 03:33 PM
Moar, Very trick, slick.....I found another site archive with extensive discussion on the Getrag 282 assembly by two racers... It also referred to an archived Getrag thread in this forum. In that thread members were very happy with the pictures which apparently went through the shaft disassembly and assembly. But the pictures cannot be viewed. Ogre says the site has probably not been maintained. I emailed the site, West Coast Fiero , using the author's name, asking if we could obtain the pictures in any format. So far no response.

[This message has been edited by hobbywrench (edited 02-07-2016).]

Moar FEB 08, 03:10 PM
You´re referring to the following thread, right?
DOHC: 1, Isuzu: 0 -- Getrag swap!

Sounds interesting. I´ll check it out soon.
Moar FEB 08, 04:00 PM
New problem - LSD and Fiero axle shafts

In the meantime I´ve figured out that I have a problem with the driveshafts.
They don´t fit into the new LSD!

The OEM differential has deeper spline bores (about 6.7 mm deeper).
The spline bores in the LSD cannot be as deep as on a non-LSD, because in
the center of the differential are two tick steel plates with springs between (LS-unit).
If I insert an original Fiero driveshaft it stops at the white tape, but it should stop at the stepped diameter:


I gotta fix this!
It is important that the drive shaft is placed deep enough in the diff, otherwise stabilizer bearings cannot fulfill their purpose.
(the bigger OD of the driveshaft cannot reach the stabilizer bearing)

I must cut off the front section of the spline where the original C-clip is placed (this will shorten the shaft 7.0 mm).
Then the stabilizer bearings can do their job.

But cutting the C-clip section off will cause another problem.
Without C-clips my driveshafts cannot be hold in position anymore (they will move inside the diff while driving), which is not good!

Maybe I can turn my own C-clip groove into the shaft somewhere on the other side of the spline (angle grinder?).
Between the side gear (bevel gear) and the differential carrier there is already a groove which I could use for axial fastening the driveshaft.

[This message has been edited by Moar (edited 02-08-2016).]