Quad 4 swap (lot of pics) (Page 11/31)
sardonyx247 JUL 24, 09:28 PM
I Lapped in the valves to get a good seal.
I used lapping compound and a hand lapping tool. Wich is basicly a stick with suctions cups on it.




I added a little oil to the stem so it spins freely.




Then you add lapping compound the the valve where it touches the seat and use the tool to spins the valve tapping it up and down as you go.
there are a lot of how tos on lapping online so I won't get too into it.




The lapped valves on the left, not yet lapped on the right. You can see the gray ring around where they got grinded together.




The lapped exhaust valve seats on the left, non lapped on the right.




Before.




After.
sardonyx247 JUL 25, 10:02 AM
To install the valve seals put on the valve rotator (bearing) and then use a deep scocket to pound on the valve seals.




The exhaust valve seals on.




All the valve seals on.




With the valves in the head, I lubed up the valve stems with assambly lube.






The head reassembled.
Quad Raider JUL 25, 01:39 PM
These photos are awesome. I'll be referencing them when I rebuild my engine, hopefully this fall. Are you using a standard valve spring compressor?
sardonyx247 JUL 25, 08:13 PM
I used the big C clamp style.
sardonyx247 JUL 27, 07:29 PM
Here are the cams.

This is the power steering pully.






What a pain to get this off. I used a big 3 claw puller and had to brace it with a huge pipe and a cheater bar on the wrench. I put a bolt into the cam to brace the puller on, BTW this bolt is SAE not metric. This pulley will not be going back on.






To seperate the cam housing cover, there are bolt holes used to pry the cover apart.








The intake cam, in the housing. Notice the lack of cam bearings, the quad is machined so well it doesn't need them and the cams ride in the housings.
BTW on the gaskets, blue is intake and red is exhaust.






The cams, still dirty, I havent cleaned them yet.




My head casting, notice the E, it shows that this is a replacement casting and should be stronger in the right areas.




Now that the cams are out of the housings, time for paint.










I put in some studs for the cams housings to slide over so they wouldn't fall off. I could have painted it all seprate but I was sick of taping and decided to paint it all at once.




With fresh wet paint.








Now that the parts are painted, time to assemble it all..........
sardonyx247 JUL 29, 08:39 PM
Here is the block ready for parts. The pistons are down half way as when you put the cams on you dont want the valves to hit the pistons.




Turn the crank to either 3 oclock or 9 oclock




With the head on.






The lower cam cover, after I cleaned the gasket sealing surface I taped it off, so any oil that drips on it comes right off with the tape and no need to reclean it all.




The exhaust cam with assembly lube.




The exhaust cam in, with the red gaskets.




Make sure the peg on the cam is at the 12 oclock position.




The bolts I used from Fierobsessed so I can easly put on the IDI cover in the reverse direction. They look like small bolts put on top of other bolts and welded on.




Make sure you use 'Locktite pipe thread sealent with teflon' or 'Permatex #14' on the cam cover bolts. The reason for useing it is it stops any loosening of the bolts from heat cycles or vibration, as this is a high vibration engine.




I stored the lifters/tappets the wrong direction so the oil drained out, they should be stored bottom side up as seen in the next pic.




You can see the oil hole in the side of the tappet above, since they drained out I put them in a thing of oil and pumped the button in the middle untill no more air bubbles came out the hole.




The intake cam and tappets.




The cam housing.




The intake cam on, with the blue intake cam gaskets.




Again make sure the cam peg is at 12 oclock.




The cam covers on.






Now to get the water pump bearing and gear in. I used a big socket to drive in the bearing
Use locktite red on the outside of the bearing.




I used a smaller socket in the big socket to support the inner bearing race as I drove in the gear, make sure the hole in the center of the gear is clean as it feeds oil through it.




To keep track of where the studs went on the timing cover housing I dotted them with a sharpie.




More to come....

[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 07-29-2012).]

Quad Raider JUL 30, 12:49 PM
Have you ever considered using studs instead of head bolts or cam cover bolts? When I installed a re-manufactured head four years ago, some of the upper threads in the cam cover bolt holes were bad. I ended up having to make my own studs to reach the good ones. I see from your photos that I could just make four longer studs in order to turn the IDI cover around.
sardonyx247 JUL 30, 03:06 PM

quote
Originally posted by Quad Raider:

Have you ever considered using studs instead of head bolts or cam cover bolts? When I installed a re-manufactured head four years ago, some of the upper threads in the cam cover bolt holes were bad. I ended up having to make my own studs to reach the good ones. I see from your photos that I could just make four longer studs in order to turn the IDI cover around.



I have spent sooo much time getting rid of the studs the PO put in this engine, it was hell. studs on the cam covers suck as when you 'unbolt' the cam covers you can tip them sideways and all the tappets/lifters stay in the cam covers, that does not work with studs, you go to pull it off the studs and they all want to just fall out. Luckly I only had a couple fall out, before I stopped pulling up on one of the cam covers and it took two people, a magnet, and alot of time to get them out and keep them in order.

BTW as I was looking at it last night, for the IDI cover to fit with the bolts I used the holes in the cover have to be slotted and the bottom of the cover ground away a bit to make up for the bolt head thickness for it to sit flush where it is suppoed to sit.
Will JUL 30, 03:44 PM
The Q4 looks like a '30's Indy engine if you polish the cam towers & covers....

[This message has been edited by Will (edited 07-30-2012).]

sardonyx247 JUL 31, 08:30 PM
The timing cover gaskets on, on the cam gaskets felpro has both as the same gasket, in both gaskets sets. it works but the silicone imprint is on the wrong side for one side.




The timing cover housing on. The flash made a cool pic. I used a rag at the bottom to help hold the chain from falling off. To take out the chain slack follow the vids on the bottom of page 2




When I put in the waterpump gear it pushed the bearing back a little. It should be like the pic below.




To fix it I did this.




The tensioner assembled and locked, again follow the vids.




Timing chain put in, tensioner put in and all slack gone.




With the new gaskets and all the timing chain shoes put in.




The cover on.




Fierobsessed stopped by and said I should prob check out his old oil pump, Glad I listened, it is all scratched up.






With the new pump on.




Then the oil pan wouldn't fit
I found the pickup support was just a tad bit different. (the left side is a little longer)




New support on.




Now the pan fits.




As it sits...



[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 07-31-2012).]