Europeen style 3800 turbo swap - what do you think ? (Page 10/14)
Frenchrafe AUG 23, 05:21 PM
Hello everyone,
Again, it's been a long time since my last post.
(Even managed to mess up/lose my pseudo - now having to use a new username.)


Fiero was working fine untill some overheating issues at the track in 2017.

Here are some photos of certain trackdays:







Fiero's been sitting mostly in the garage this year - house painting and repairs taking priority etc...

Still goes for a spin round the french countryside once in a while.


Here's the problem:

For a while, the car has been playing up with hesitations and sluggish accelerations. Flooring throttle seems to stall, back off to 1/2 throttle and away it pulls, but with roughness.
I've just got hold of an aldl Bluetooth interface to see what's going on - I'm running a '95 PCM with my series 2 3800 turbo. Tune by Darthfiero.

The codes are:
325 ESC failure
131 O2 sensor low
171 fuel trim lean
122 TPS voltage low
123 TPS voltage high

Is the ESC code for the ESC or just the knock sensors?

The O2 code may just be a cracked exhaust manifold giving a lean reading. Need to fix that this winter!

The TPS? No idea? The part is new.

Any ideas please to get back to good accelerations?

Thanks, Rafe
Dennis LaGrua AUG 23, 11:35 PM
The codes are defined as:
325 ESC failure Knock sensor malfunction on bank one
131 O2 sensor low Lean condition or exhaust leak
171 fuel trim lean Could be a vacuum leak, low fuel pressure or insufficient fuel for the boost used
122 TPS voltage low Voltage expected by the PCM is low Indicates TPS going below .2V or less
123 TPS voltage high Voltage expected by the PCM is high Going above 4.54 Volts To get both high and low TPS voltages, its probably a defective TPS

Do the checks and the problem will be found. BTW this was a very nice build. With a bit of diagnostic work it should work fine

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Frenchrafe AUG 24, 05:24 AM
Thanks for the advice. I'll look at the knock sensor first.
(Bank 1? Damn thing is hidden above my intercooler and oil cooler!)
Thanks also for the complement on my build👍

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'87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. Sticky tyres. Driven hard!

Dennis LaGrua AUG 24, 07:27 AM

quote
Originally posted by Frenchrafe:

Thanks for the advice. I'll look at the knock sensor first.
(Bank 1? Damn thing is hidden above my intercooler and oil cooler!)
Thanks also for the complement on my build👍




Unless you moved it, bank one O2 sensor is located on the rear side manifold. For the last few years I have been using Denso sensors as thats what GM used on the 3800. Just be aware that lean codes do not always indicate a bad sensor. Lean exhaust is caused by one of two things: An excess of air to the engine or insufficient fuel. Could be bad (or weak fuel pump), or a vacuum leak.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

Frenchrafe AUG 25, 10:43 AM
It's my bank 1 knock sensor that's behind my coolers.

Here's how I mounted the intercooler:




Above that is the oil cooler with its fan:



This photo shows the plumbing from the oil filter block (block came off a series 1 3800 in a Pontiac Transport):




And then I can get, just about !!, at the knock sensor!:




Who put all that stuff under the engine? Oh yes, it was me!

Regards, Rafe

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'87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. Sticky tyres. Driven hard!

vette7584 AUG 26, 12:22 PM
i like the oil cooler idea, any chance you might have the part numbers off that part from the Trans Sport? great build, unless i missed something i think we need an engine shot! i am building an 84 Indy Turbo myself
Frenchrafe AUG 26, 04:19 PM
For the engine photos, I don't have many available - we had to move house at the time and the Fiero was "thrown together" in order to move the car. I wasn't really documenting the build after a time. It just had to get finished and running!
Here are a few however that I've managed to find:





This was the weekend just before the move when I (we) worked all day to drop the body back down and haul the car away. Just before handing in the house keys the monday morning!


More recently, this is a photo taken by a reporter at a track day:



I realise that I don't have any photos of the complete motor with its turbo?
Just some photos of the hatch in the modified firewall giving me acces to the turbo etc...



Concerning US parts numbers, I haven't a clue? As I said, the oil filter block with the oil lines input/output came off a series 1 3800 in a '95 Transport. Its where my PCM came from as well. (We don't have alot of wreakers with american cars here in France.)

Regards, Rafe

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'87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. Sticky tyres. Driven hard!

Frenchrafe AUG 27, 04:05 PM
I saw today that a subject on the aluminium radiators came back from the dead, rather like this thread.
Here is my experience with radiators:

While on the track back in 2017 my radiator finally gave out - or more so the radiator cap. Coolant spayed out while racing and the engine got hot. Luckily not too catastophic and I managed to get back to the pits. Once stopped, I opened the bonnet to this mess:


I topped up with coolant, greased the radiator cap seals to help seal the 30 year old rubber seals a little bit better and limped the car home gently. No further overheating during the 60 or so km to the house.

Once home, a stripdown of the radiator area showed up some rather "crusty" supports:


The radiator, while still fonctionnal, was 30 years old and rather corroded on the bottom tubes. As well, the trackday overheating had disloged all the "crud" and rust inside these tubes - I wasn't sure that the lower tubes would not start to weep once flushed etc...
… so, out with the old and in with the new 3-row all aluminium radiator:


The lower radiator support was well rusted on its foward facing lip. Since no Fieros are in the scrap yards here, E-bay France and/or Germany don't have any secondhand spares and paying the shipping from the US costs double the overpriced used part on E-bay US, I decided to repair what I have:
(Something that I do pretty much all the time with this car!)

You can see the new strip welded along the front edge.

Fixed this rusty front lip extension support at the same time:



"Ajusting" the upper radiator support (it's never a bolt on fix!), fitting a new fan motor (30 years old as well) and generally cleaning and painting all bits necessary and here is (was) the result:



So there it is. I've been running the 3-row radiator for 1 year now with no issues.

My opinion? It doesn't cool a whole lot better than a stock radiator. Which is to say that the stock radiator was quite capable of cooling my 3800 turbo, until the radiator cap gave out.
Yes, a new cap costs little in comparaison to the complete 3-row. But I had other rust issues to treat as well, so I went the extra wallet emptying to have a better looking radiator setup.

Regards, Rafe

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'87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. Sticky tyres. Driven hard!

Frenchrafe SEP 16, 03:25 PM

quote
Originally posted by vette7584:

...I think we need an engine shot!...



I found this photo the other day, taken while repairing the flywheel one time:


In fact, it was the unfortunate time most of the flywheel bolts gave out. You know the how it goes; "I'll use another sort of bolt for my new flywheel and clutch setup." "What could possibly go wrong in not using OEM flywheel bolts?" "It takes too long to get new bolts shipped out from the USA anyway." "I'm in a hurry to get all of this finished!"

Moral of the story - don't do it!



I was damn lucky not to grunge up my crank:


The flywheel boltholes looked pretty knackered once disassembled. I wasn't sure if the flywheel would go again?


However, after careful repairs with aluminium inserts it seemed OK:
(Not got any photos of how to reline/make up inserts. All I remember was that it was rather tiresome adjusting and flaring in the inserts made out of 1mm walled aluminium tube.)


So here is another engine shot, from the front this time - just before sliding the whole drivetrain under the car again:


As said before, don't skip on the small components of your builds. It doesn't pay!!

Regards, Rafe

PS: Yes it worked. Proper bolts and all. The flywheel has stayed in place, no worries for 2 or 3 years now.

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'87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. Sticky tyres. Driven hard!

[This message has been edited by Frenchrafe (edited 09-16-2018).]

Frenchrafe SEP 16, 04:09 PM
Back to present day problems. The knock sensor issue.
This weekend I replaced the two knock sensors (after waiting 3 weeks for the spares to arrive from the USA - no import tax this time! Must be in inverse proportion to how quick the parts are shipped! The French customs must think that if he waited this long to get his parts, we're not going to sting him on top of the purchase price and shipping costs. Poor guy has had his car in the garage for a month now! Lets be nice!!)


OK. Started by testing (again) the old knock sensors:


One was at infinite resistance - can't be good!


And the other one was at 100kohm - again, not good!


New parts:
(Nice.)


As said in my previous posts, the front knock sensor is a pain to access, and you've got to be quick to change over the part while being rained on with coolant! Messy!



Once both sensors changed, its time to test again:


And both sensors are at 3.87kohm / 3.88kohm. I'm calling this one a win!



Reconnect the leads and it's all good:



The car is back on its wheels and drives. Accelerations are good. No more fault codes and no more orange SES light blinking away at you!
I guess the other codes were incidental codes caused by the engine ignition retard and resulting partial limp mode.

Cheers, Rafe

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'87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. Sticky tyres. Driven hard!