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OldBob
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JUL 11, 09:51 PM
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OK - got some questions.
Here are a couple of pics of three boosters. The one in the middle
is a Fiero with the bracket removed. The one on the right is from a
90 S-10 fwd. Except for the bracket it appears to be identical to the
Fiero booster.
The one on the left is from a 97 S-10 from the junkyard. It is borderline
too large to fit into the space in the Fiero even with some heavy duty
BFH work. It doesn't look exactly like the one pictured earlier in this
thread. It has a smooth ring around the outside where the earlier pic
shows a scalloped edge like the Fiero. Phil mentioned the need to
deform the inner fender about an 1/8". Took a lot more than that to
get the bracket flat to the firewall and the booster was still touching the
inner fender.
The 97 S-10 is about 10 3/4" dia. The Fiero is about 8 3/4" dia.
Is this the right booster? If not, what do I look for?
Bob
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Phil
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JUL 12, 08:32 AM
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That's the correct booster 10 3/4", the ones I used were scalloped but I dont think it makes any difference. here are 2 pics of the BFH work 
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RotrexFiero
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JUL 12, 10:06 AM
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I have to test fit mine several times, and make "corrections" with the hammer. But, it will fit. Though I have to admit when I compared mine to the stock I thought "there is no way this is going in there without a cutting torch". But, yes it will fit and is a nice upgrade. Please, as Phil suggested, take your time and cut the pedal rod carefully. Probably want to have it welded, since if it breaks or comes apart your literally have no brakes. You would be pretty defenseless if anyone was hurt, or even yourself, trying to explain to the insurance company or police that you modified your brakes and that is why you ran over a squad of nuns.
LOL
------------------
87 Fiero GT (3.2 Turbo)
E-mail: david88@peoplepc.com
www.angelfire.com/pa5/davidfiero/
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schumi
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AUG 19, 09:39 PM
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I did this upgrade on my 84 track car, which has stock braking system except has stock front calipers at both the front and rear. A few things:
1. It dramatically increased stopping power. I like it a lot.
2. Don't use JB weld, get it welded for real. I tried it with a steel coupling and JB weld and it failed after about 10 miles. Cost me $20 to get welded (used steel coupling again).
3. I had to use a couple of M10 washers on each of the m/c mounting bolts, because without them the pushrod thing from booster to m/c was causing brakes to be engaged even w/o pressing the pedal.[This message has been edited by schumi (edited 08-19-2006).]
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schumi
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AUG 19, 09:41 PM
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double post, sorry [This message has been edited by schumi (edited 08-19-2006).]
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Scott-Wa
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AUG 19, 10:38 PM
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FieroX did something interesting where he used an electric vacuum pump to draw down the power assist booster on his wild turbo setup. Instead of just being able to generate the 18-21 inches of vacuum the average car idles at around sea level, he can probably draw close to 29 inches.. a massive difference. As someone else stated, a booster is sealed and good for several stops once drawn down, even if the vacuum source goes away. It's not a mission critical item to have it keep up with braking or engine size unless your driving has you pumping the pedal continuosly. Experiment... start your car and then shut it off, then push the brakes. You should hear the booster functioning each time until it's equalized to atmosphere. Or after your car has been off a while, twist the elbow (check valve) going into the booster, it'll still be under vacuum and you'll hear the whoosh as you break the seal.
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FLGuyTpa
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AUG 20, 02:50 PM
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Formula88
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DEC 08, 12:00 AM
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Keep in mind, the smaller booster won't give as much brake assist. Since the reason for the swap is to get more assist, I would think you'd want to go with the largest booster that will fit. The S10 booster looks to be about as much as you can squeeze in there without major surgery.
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avengador1
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DEC 08, 11:48 AM
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roccofiero
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JAN 20, 05:42 PM
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Hey, I just did the booster upgrade on my 86 GT. Easy, low cost and "At last I have brakes like a real car." No more panic every time a quick stop is required. THe brakes feel just like the brakes on my new dodge. Very impressive for the price. Thanks a million, Phil. It is the answer to my prayers. The install was as easy as you stated. The new booster (A1 Cardone P/N A154-71061, cost me 110.31 @ AutoParts Warehouse. Unfirtunately, the core cost ($30) will be lost as the booseter is different and the old one is cut up. The new booster is 2 inches larger in diameter, but fits well with the "hammer" mod. Very little hammering required. The whole mod would have taken about an hour if not for the brake shaft change. I cut off the end of the new shaft and the old shaft so as to connect the old brake connector to the new shaft. The new total shaft length is 9 1/2 in. from the face of the booster to the center of the brake banjo connector. I cut to size, found a sleeve at a hardware store and welded the shafts together. That's it. I didn't even have to bleed the brakes, since the master cylinder lines were never removed. What a difference. If you are looking for real brakes on a Fiero, this is the ticket.
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