I bought another car (Page 4/12)
gen2muchwork NOV 12, 06:31 PM
Lots of work done. All electrical should be good to go. My hi voltage cables were really bad.





So I replaced them all.
4 batteries were beyond toast. I borrowed 4 for testing purposes.


Don't know the last time this read "f".
I hit the gas, didn't explode or catch fire, and moved a foot.
When it is light out and not raining it's maiden voyage time.
LitebulbwithaFiero NOV 13, 04:10 PM
Cool. Nothing to add, just wanted to let you know I am following this
gen2muchwork NOV 14, 07:01 AM
I almost pulled it out yesterday, but after a little more testing, I decided to replace 3 additional 48v cables. One was getting a bit warm. Another that leads from the slow speed resistor looked bad enough too so that will be replaced. But I'm sure I'm going to break the ceramic standoff its on, so I need to get some replacements before I do that. The ceramic standoff on the other side of the resistor got a chunk cracked off already when I did those cables. That thing gets HOT. Its in the wheel well on the passenger rear. It seems like someone should have designed a guard around that thing. don't park on leaves with a citicar.

gen2muchwork NOV 17, 06:14 PM
It drives!

Idk if I know how to post a video. Maybe this works. Not much battery capacity till I get some new cells.
I have basically no brakes. The whole hydraulic system needs rebuilding. But, now I have something to motivate me through the winter.
RWDPLZ NOV 18, 12:12 AM
Video works, congrats!
gen2muchwork NOV 18, 09:06 AM
Thanks. It was a fun short drive.
I got my ceramic standoffs for the low speed nichrome resistor.


Now, the brakes use a design from Bendix used in Cushman and ezgo golf carts. The brakes are so small a typical wheel cyl. Wouldn't fit, so it's a whole plate with a bent wheel cyl. As part of it. those should cost me $35 a wheel to rebuild assuming the bore isn't fubar. I can still get whole Assemblies, but they are closer to $150. Let's hope bores are good. I'll have the wheels off soon enough. The master cylinder looks to be from AMC ambassador or gremlin. Somewhere around $50. I'll do those over the winter and be ready for batteries in the spring. I just can't see getting batteries when it's below freezing. It wouldn't get many drives over the winter anyways.

The parking brake needs love. It's so important because there is no trans to have a parking prawl. Its permanent neutral. I don't want to carry wheel chocks everywhere.

[This message has been edited by gen2muchwork (edited 11-18-2017).]

Stubby79 NOV 27, 03:50 AM
If you're still thinking of finding a modern controller, you might want to keep an eye on EvTradingPost.com. And keep an eye out for someone locally selling an old EV conversion with dead batteries for cheap. I've gotten components for a fraction of their new price this way.

And, at 48v, controllers aren't all that expensive. Buuuuut...if you're remotely thinking of upgrading the battery pack or anything, you don't want to shell out $$ for a 48v controller, then have to buy another to run 72v when you upgrade the batteries. (You can limit the output of a modern controller to 48v, if necessary, while running a higher voltage pack)

A modern controller will give you full torque at low speed, unlike the using a resistor in series, as it sounds like this uses.

HMU if you have questions.
gen2muchwork NOV 27, 09:33 AM

quote
Originally posted by Stubby79:

If you're still thinking of finding a modern controller, you might want to keep an eye on EvTradingPost.com. And keep an eye out for someone locally selling an old EV conversion with dead batteries for cheap. I've gotten components for a fraction of their new price this way.

And, at 48v, controllers aren't all that expensive. Buuuuut...if you're remotely thinking of upgrading the battery pack or anything, you don't want to shell out $$ for a 48v controller, then have to buy another to run 72v when you upgrade the batteries. (You can limit the output of a modern controller to 48v, if necessary, while running a higher voltage pack)

A modern controller will give you full torque at low speed, unlike the using a resistor in series, as it sounds like this uses.

HMU if you have questions.



Thanks!
For now I'm sticking with FLA and the old school contactor, for no other reason than its neat and archaic. At full/half throttle, the contactors are very efficient, not so much at speed 1 with resistor though.
What will the future hold? Those used chevy volt batteries are pretty close in price to a set of FLA's, if i don't figure the bms, charger , controller. The leaf batteries are not to much more either. I could see myself moving to a modern setup. I like the idea of less weight, more range, and more cycles. What's not to like there? I'm sure in 5 years, it will make plenty of sense to make the move and hopefully I will have acquired all the necessary parts by then. But, I kill the nostalgia of driving it a little, maybe. If I could get 70-80miles range this thing would be significantly more useful. It would be cool to be able to use modern charge stations at 220v and charge faster. The motor should be able to take 72v if used carefully, and may push me towards 40-45 mph. That is really fast for something like this though. I need some drive time to figure out what is best. I'm really green to this EV stuff, but I'm learning fast!

Those chevy volt batteries are all over car-part for $1,500-2,500. The longest one would fit under my seat no problem, with room for maybe 2 more of the small ones in a u shape, even with the cooling intact. Something about sitting on all that lithium, with only plywood and vinyl in between it and my butt freaks me out a little though.
gen2muchwork NOV 29, 08:16 AM
Well, I got in to the rear brakes. They are going to be a bigger problem than I had hoped.
The right rear could be worse, It too was chock full of mud daubers, which may or may not have contributed in the disintegration of the shoes. The brake spider looks like I might be able to rebuild it.




smallest drum ever




Now, the left side... this chunk of metal was floating around. It is a tab from the cast spider that holds the shoe. The whole spider needs replacement. Which are still available, Or I guess I could weld it, but it's cast and has to be pulled to weld it anyways so that seems stupid since it's a brake part.



It's leaky, wet and rusty in here.







Unfortunately, my manual does not get in to detail for the dana axle (used on transitional citicar and comuta car)
Soooo, Best I can tell, the axle needs to be pulled to gain access to the spider. I think the retainer is on the outer bearing, so the whole axle shaft/brakes come out then get pressed apart. I've been told its a similar process to a ford 9" I can still get a retaining ring for this process, although not cheap from ev performance. I'm unsure at this point where to source a seal.

Good news, the fronts are much easier to do when I get there.
Tony Kania NOV 29, 09:54 PM
Great video! "City car!".