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| Tips for a new Fiero owner? (Page 1/1) |
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TGYMK
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AUG 30, 04:16 AM
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I'm not exactly a new owner yet, but I'm looking at buying an 86 Fiero GT and I'm curious if there is anything I should or need to know going into Fiero ownership. Anything like common problems or things to keep in mind would be greatly appreciated. I've always been more into Nissans and other Japanese cars than anything else but Fieros really got my interest but my general knowledge about them is lacking.
I'll tie in asking for buyer's advice into this post because it kinda sorta fits:
-the 86 GT I'm looking at buying has 140k miles which seems like more than a lot, should this be a turn-off?
-the owner says that trying to start the car just makes the alarm go off and that it won't start because of the alarm, my initial suspicion is that it just needs a new battery. Is this a reasonable assumption or does this sound like a bigger problem?
FWI this would be my first project car if that matters
Thank you for reading! I look forward to spending more time in these forums and learning more about these cars!
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theogre
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AUG 30, 11:45 AM
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If can't start then non-running car and 30+ years and over 100,000 miles often has many problems even when they run.
That's even if car isn't rusted big time under plastic body.
Non-running = low to no price to sell for most people but many owners try to sell their "rare cars" w/ price over NADA book. NADA and KBB are BS prices too but no time to cover that here.
Parked for months to years cause more problems like brake problems. Unused calipers can freeze w/ "rust" or other problems.
Does it even have current tags, etc. No, then can't drive anywhere even to test.
So you have to tow/haul it somewhere then store until fix and have tags etc. And storing no-drive car at home is often a problem w/ local gov or HOA in many places that can "ticket" or tow it.
Search rust.
Many recent treads not covering again right now.
Alarm systems will cause a lot of problems and likely that and other issues killed the battery.
Do try to charge battery kill this way. Very little is total dead and try to charge can cause huge problems.
------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
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Chief08
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AUG 30, 01:15 PM
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I would recommend having the car inspected. Also ask the seller to replace the battery, a n see if it starts. Check for rust like Ogre said, especially in the trunk area under the carpeting. Make sure that you can shift it into every gear. Look for leaks, valve covers, oil pan, main seal, axle shafts, cooling system., brakes. Check the oil, is it milky, does it smell burnt? Check the foot well floor on the passenger side for dampness (heater core leak). These are just a few common things to check off the top of my head, I'm sure other members will have more to add.
Chief
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hyperv6
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AUG 30, 01:54 PM
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Here are some buying tips.
#1 look for rust. Cars can look great and be rotted away under the body. Go to the left rear corner of the trunk and pull the carpet down. If it is rusted or a hole walk away as odds are it is worse elsewhere.
#2 parked cars will take a bit of work to get going. Brake calipers and line at the least. You may also face hoses and water pump. Tires etc. New fuel tank and pump along with injectors will be needed.
#3 might avoid any high mile 88 models as they have one year parts that are difficult to find. Also avoid cars needing many parts as they can be costly anymore as th eh are becoming rare to find in good condition.
#4 the best thing to do is go buy the lowest mile car in the best condition you can find. Just doing a paint job and some interior work can exceed the value of some of these cars. There are still a good number of lower mile cars around often at a decent price. Often they will cost less than you will spend con a higher mile cheaper model.
I have seen many people spend a lot money and still end with a car that is far from great shape and one they never could recover the investment in. In the long run a low mile car that is in good shape often is the better value in the long run.
#5 Don’t get in a hurry and take your time. Do not shop emotionally and only buy when you know for sure you found the right car.
With the web and time you will find the right car and then you will be on your way. There are still a ton of these cars around and you just have to wait for the right one to come around. In the mean time save more money up and buy the better car.
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PaulJK
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AUG 31, 09:07 AM
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Personally I wouldn't let 140,000 miles bother me because I bought a formula with 40,000 miles that cost me a fortune because all the original stuff was rotted or rusted. Common problems are:
If the side tanks on the radiator are plastic it's original and should be replaced because its ready to crack and leak;
if wipers make a few swipes when you make turns, the cars has "phantom wipers" and you'll need to replace the wiper motor with a known good one or perform a different fix (use SEARCH),
if the doors hit the latch instead of closing smoothly, you'll need to replace the plastic rollers in the hinges,
Don't rely on the gas guage until you verify it because its probably going to be wrong
If the alternator has not been replaced lately, you might be in for a new one because the alternator gets cooked and will leave you stranded when it fails,
Immediately perform a tune-up including replacing the pick up coil because the car will not start when it fails (you'll need to remove the distributor and set the timing),
If the shocks and struts haven't been replaced, add these to your shopping list,
Check the AC to see if it has been upgraded from the orignal R12 freon system,
Buy a 1986, 87 or 88 with the upgraded headlight system because the earlier years use relays that are impossibly problematic and no longer available new (from anyone last time i checked)
Be aware that the 1984 had differences from the other model years including an exposed screw near a fuel line that brought the original reputation as a "fire starter".
Be aware that the 4 cylinder cars had 90 hp and the v6 had 135 hp when NEW. Don't plan to get noticeable more power with add-ons cause it ain't gonna happen.
Use the SEARCH feature of this forum because any question you can think of has been answered many times, including common problems and buying advice.
The BEST place to buy a used fiero is in the Mall section of this forum because most likely all these problems have been fixed by all the guys who own fieros here  .[This message has been edited by PaulJK (edited 08-31-2020).]
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Australian
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AUG 31, 09:27 AM
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First you will want new wheels but sort out ride height and bump steer as you go you will then want brakes as you need to make it stop before you make it go. Get some sway bars.
Decide how modified you want to end up before you start. If you want a widebody you need to make it around the wheels so back to start. There is quite a lot you can change but don't do it backwards stick in a v8 only to crash it without brakes.
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PaulJK
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AUG 31, 09:31 AM
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Dennis LaGrua
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SEP 09, 09:24 AM
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The OP is looking at California vehicles. Rust is not usually a problem with cars out that way so I would assume the the under frames on most would be sound, except perhaps under the battery.
Its a good idea to hear the engine run and take the car for a test drive. Look for any exhaust smoke especially upon starting. Turn on lights, A/C and power accessories to see how they work. Check tire tread wear,
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RWDPLZ
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SEP 09, 12:55 PM
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Rust shouldn't be a problem but never assume, my car was out there for a couple years
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