------------------
Astronomy says we will find a coded signal from outer space. Then we'll KNOW that life exists there, for coded signals aren't by chance.

Biology says there are coded genetic signals in every cell, but we KNOW that no intelligence created life.

I'm the original owner of a white ' 84 2M4 purchased Dec 10, 1983 from Pontiac. Always garaged, no rust, 4-wheel drifts are fun!

------------------
Anything I might say is probably worth what you paid for it, so treat it accordingly!

Dave

www.ltlfrari.com

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

quote Originally posted by turbo86se: Hahaha great video! You guys could easily host a very informative and successful tech session for a group. Looking forward to the suspension tear-down video too, I'll be tearing down mine this summer. Oh I'd love to get my hands on an early 90's VR4. Absolutely awesome car.

Suspension will be in Part 7! It might be past summer by the time that's released though... I'm glad you enjoyed it however

quote Originally posted by Habanera Hal: Very cool series! Nice to see someone who actually repairs and doesn't just replace.

Thank you! This whole project is supposed to be a learning experience, so I'm trying to repair as much as I can.

quote Originally posted by theogre: So you found my Cave... Correct link for piston notes is http://fierocave.shorturl.com/brakes1.htm Link posted now will die soon. Rear rotors need to be pulled and remove the anti seize. Rotors and hub and rims needs clean ish metal where they meet to give clamping force to stop rotor moving when you stop. Minor rust won't matter. Worse Bulk anti seize can run out and pollute the rotors and pads causing pad glazing. Clean the hub and inside the rotor's hat. If you didn't clean the new rotors... you have to clean them and sand off the pads too because you already started to glaze the pads. Rear brake pistons look Black and likely no plastic plug in front, facing the pad? If True have Recall Kit install and should work after you're done. (If E brake cables are good too.) Front brakes can have problems w/ steel pistons. Calipers made for Phenolic pistons are different in several small ways you can't see. Using steel can cause pad dragging making worse problems like no brakes or fires on the highway. Caliper Sliders and their "O-rings" need Brake or Silicon Grease NOT Brake Fluid. Brake Fluid there can cause corrosion and lock the sliders very fast because Brake Fluid will pull water from everywhere then water will attach the caliper hole. Front bearings will quickly fry if you preload them. See my Cave, Front Bearings May have problem anyway because you shouldn't have to beat the outer races and damage the bearing drivers to get them installed. Is likely the rotor is made w/ too tight clearance. Missing outer races and lugs is not really a good sign. Most good brands have both installed. Any "glue" repair of gas tanks for cars often won't last for several reasons. Do Not Braze Gas Tanks. Need too much heat and thin metal hates it. Solder them w/ patches if needed. Lead/Tin solder not "lead free." Most Lead free solder needs more heat then lead solders. Any basic propane torch can heat. Flush gas and fumes out by filling the tank w/ water completely a few times.

Yep! I found it about 10 years ago. It really is a great resource, so thank you so much far taking the time to put it all together. I'll updated the link!

Regarding the rotors, I did a bunch of looking into whether or not the anti-seize should go on, and as far as I can tell it shouldn't be harmful. There's a lot of online guides, videos, articles, write-ups, that suggest using it. I did apply it as thin as I could, so it shouldn't be too much of an issue.

The rotors were cleaned completely, no glazing to worry about.

The rear brake pistons didn't have a spot for a plug... I've seen on your cave that there's the Old and New style, however as you can see below, mine looks like neither. Not sure what's up with that, but the e-brake operates just fine!

All re-manufactured calipers for sale come with steel pistons, and for individual pistons, I could only find them in steel as well. There wasn't really much a choice for me.

The O-Rings had brake grease applied, not brake fluid.

Bearings weren't necessarily preloaded, but were tightened down until it was just barely snug and the rotor still spun freely and smoothly. They're coming back off when I do the suspension, so I'll be sure to follow your procedure to get them done properly. I couldn't find any rotors on RockAuto, from any brand, that had the races already installed. Is there another vendor that sells them? Every instructional video I watched on installing bearing races, they were all beat more or less the same way, albeit with a larger hammer and not a claw hammer like I used.

The regular JB weld failed, but was re-fixed with the Steel Stik product, which will be in Part 4, and I haven't had any problems since then. It's been 7 months since re-fixing, and I haven't had a single leak, however I do understand that it isn't a permanent solution. It's just to last while I get the car back into shape. Replacing it with a clean tank is definitely on the list of things to do.

I don't mean to sound defensive if I do! I just don't want people to think that I'm totally clueless. I really do appreciate all your advice, truly.


Odd Piston:

[This message has been edited by rafinger (edited 01-21-2019).]