Rescuing my dads old Fiero GT 1987 (Page 8/23)
fierofool OCT 19, 07:56 AM
Sorry, I don't know the answer to either. An automotive upholstery shop might be able to suggest something.

This one sounds like it would do the job, though. Whatever the guy used set up quickly and solidly.
http://www.autozone.com/sea...-adhesive/316901_0_0
Repulsiv OCT 22, 06:23 PM
Today I tried to remove some of the water, the mat on the drivers postion is soaked..

I first put a heater in the car to get the temperature up, and then after some hours I started to suck water with a vaccum cleaner (ofcourse one made for water), I got around 3dl just from sucking moisture from the floor mats.

Then I left the heater in the car for some more hours, after that I had fog on all windows, so I used one of those windows-cleaners to suck water from the windows, that got me at least 1dl more..

I asked my dad if he had those problems with the car leaking water, but he never had it..

Anyway, i also tried to fix the windows washer pump, first of all i had to clean the nozzles with compressed air, and glue the broken one way valve (converting it to a T-piece only), but I only got the nozzles to drip water, it looks like the pump doesnt give enough pressure..

So I removed the tanke and the pumnp and going to try it more indoors, probably buy a new pump.

..But after I did that and went inside again (+3C) I felt stupid for not measuring the voltage at the pump connector, that can be the problem ofcourse..
Repulsiv OCT 27, 04:59 AM
Yesterday I got the new tyres on the rims, Kuhmo 205/60R15 on the front, and Continental 225/60R15 in the rear.

Kuhmo is not my fav brand, but I got a very good price.

The reason i went from the original 215/60r15 rear was that it was much harder to find, and 225 seemed to fit fine, also it's just +1.6% larger diameter.

..SO if the weather is with me I might take the car out for a test drive this weekend.
fierofool OCT 27, 09:50 AM
I've been running Kumho's and running them HARD on my 87 for about 3 years. Probably at least 50% tread remains. 215's on front, 225's on the rear, and yes, the 215 Kumho's are very difficult to find.
Repulsiv OCT 28, 03:53 PM
Today it was raining, but since the family is away I had planend to fix a few things outside, so I wauted until it stopped to rain and changed tyres on one of the saabs.. then it started to rain.. well well, I continued anyway.

I started the fiero to make the engine warm, DAMN so much smoke from the exhaustpipes.. white/grey smoke.. I hope its just condensed water, because it have been raining fro weeks now.. it also smell like the cars did when i was a kid.. probably because it have no cat, and more or less all cars here have that nowadays.

Anyway, I never got the engine really warm, the temp meter is REALLY strange graded, with 7 marks between 100 and 220 ? but it stop two marks over 100, I guess it should be in the middle at 220 ? ..I'm not much into farenheit, but that should be slightly over 100 degrees celcius.

Anyway, i removed the plug and drained the oil, it was extremly black.. so it probably needed a change.. then I let the exhaust cool down a while so I didnt have to burn myself when chaning the oil filter..

meanwhile I tried to get the washer pump to work, I removed the tank and put water in it instead for testing, and connected it to a powersource, I noticed that the longer I used it the better rpessure I got, so i looped the hose from the pump right down in the tank and let it go a while.. then i could hardly stop the water, so I put it back in the car, and also put the combined T-piece and checkvalve in place, and NO.. it actually shooted the hsoe from the valve.. hmm.. tried to blow in it.. completly stuck.. ..now I tried to find a normal T-piece and put it there instead, yes, NOW it worked, actually a bit too good, when standing still it shoot the fluid over the windscreen.. so now I refilled it with washer fluid (very important here in sweden where we can have temperatures around -25C in the winters here in middle sweden..)

Now I filled filled the new oil filter with oil, oiled the gasket and put it in place, then the oilplug and filled with oil, started it up and got oilpressure and no leaks.

Now I put on my wheels and put it down on ground, time for testdrive!

Actually my first time driving the car ever, when my dad bought it we where not friends and did not talk to eachother for about two years (long story..), and after that its just been standing, so i never drived it.. also when we brought it here he drove it up and down from the transporter, sO havent driven it a single meter yet. ..Until now.. I just HAD to take it out for a testdrive..

The engine was not very much like for example my Celicas that have a straight curve with alot of power ion the top, it was much more power on low revs and not so much in the top, I asked my dad about it later and he said its always been like that.. but i was thinking it might have something to do with the 10+ years old gasoline in the tank..

Anyway the engine ran fine, the suspension was very hard but I guess that is intentional.. the brakes.. Hrrm.. EXTREMLY bad.. the first times I had to STAND on the brakes to make the car slow down.. after a few times braking it was better but still not really good.. but I guess its normal since the car have been standing still for 10 years.. I still think I probably should take apart the brakes, clean everything ant put it togethler.. not sure if I do it before the inspection or not.

It's still very hard to shift gears.. moving front and back is easy, to the sides not very easy, my dad said that have happend during the 10 years.. I tried to lubricate the mechanism back on the gearbox, any idea where the trouble can be ?

Anyway, I drove about 2km, and the car works.. except from the brakes its pretty ok.

I also noticed that the parking light in front left was broken, so I fixed it (replaced the bulb)


Then I looked at the oilcan and realised that I had made a mistake and thought the oil can was 4l, so I left around 2dl in it, but it was 5l.. so I overfilled it I with 4.8l oil instead of 3.8.. damn.. not very easy to remove 1l.. :/ I hope I didnt break anything.. some engines really dont like being overfilled, others dont mind.. Anyone know it I have to remove 1l or if its ok ?

I checked the oilstick, but it was EXTREMLY hard to read then the oil was hot and new.. thats why I didnt spot it.
Repulsiv OCT 28, 03:57 PM
I forgot.. even after the testdrive I disnt manage to get the temperature higher.. anyone know why ? the termostat ? anything else ?

I also felt the hoses on the radiator, they where both warm (in and out), same with the hose beside the thermostat housing..

here is a pic of the temp meter..




..And yes, another thing, there is no indicators blinking for the turn signals in the instrument.. very strange, ofcourse it can be a broken bulb, but there are separate indicators for left and right.. hmm.. I wonder if it is because someone converted the turnsignals to a more europe-friendly type.. any ideas ?

are there a electric scheme for the car somwhere at the web ?

[This message has been edited by Repulsiv (edited 10-28-2017).]

fierofool OCT 28, 04:23 PM
Fiero front brakes are notorious for sticking when they sit for long periods of time. I think complete rebuild kits are either obsolete or hard to find, as are for the rear. I wouldn't venture into rebuilding the rear calipers. Just replace them. That might be a good idea for the front, too.

A Fiero 2.8 will be OK with 5 US quarts of oil. That's what I've been running in my engines for years.

Let the engine run until the cooling fan comes on. Look at the temp gauge and use that point as 235 degrees F if you have a standard 195 thermostat. I would first look at the temp gauge sending unit in the corner of the trunk side head, just below and to the right of the ignition coil. It will have 2 green wires. Replace that temp sensor.

The left to right shifting is probably due to water having gotten into the select cable while it sat outside for so long. It even happens with Fieros that are driven regularly. It's just due to the design, orientation and position of the end of the cable. The wire strands have rusted and may be separating. Rodney Dickman is your best friend for transmission cables. He has also installed a rubber boot on the end to reduce if not totally eliminate that problem.
tshark OCT 28, 04:55 PM
You do still have a thermostat, right? It almost seems as if someone removed the thermostat, or the thermostat is failing open. Of course, it's nice to connect the data cable to see what the computer shows. To check the thermostat, WHILE THE ENGINE IS COOL, just open the cap on the thermostat housing. Do not loosen the bolts on the housing. You can remove the thermostat easily with your fingers.

You may check the air filter and air intake. If clogged, they can cause loss of top end power.

Oh. On the turn signals, if the bulbs were changed to LEDs, you'll need an electronic flasher (relay). I'd replace both flashers, anyway. The hazards flasher is on the passenger side by the courtesy center, and the blinker flasher is on the driver's side by the steering column, IIRC.

[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 10-28-2017).]

Repulsiv OCT 29, 09:35 AM
Replacing all calipers sounds like a very expensive repair.. I'll try to clean it up and see if they work.. I had planned to do this today, but when I woke up it was snowing

5quars of oil would be around 4.4l I think, but I have more like 4.8l.. hmm.. I know frome xperience that is pretty hard to remove just LITTLE oil.. maybe I can sue one of those "suck the oil up from the oilstick hole" pumps..

btw, I was amazed that the oil is so clear even after driving the car.. usally it get darker really quick, but ofcourse part of that is beacuase most of my cars have turbo, and therefore also a oilcooler, and that is still filled with old oil when you drain the oil sump.. ..I guess that this care have no oilcooler ?

Cooling fan, it never came on, i was running it for maybe 20min standing still with the front hood open, but it nbever started, i figured that was because the temp never came up..

I have no idea what thermostat I have, but on the reciept I got from the old owner when he installed the tuning chip a thermostat was included with that,so it probably changed the temp (up ?) ..I noticed that its very easy to remove it on those cars so I can open it and see if it say anything, and maybe try if it works too (using boiling water), but I noticed they where pretty cheap so I can also buy a new one to be sure..
Is there ANY reason not to buy one with standard temp ?

Hmm, the shift cable.. that sounds logical, but expensive, have to look that up, is it easy to replace it ? ..I can try to just oil it ofcourse, but i know from parking brake cables that they often rust and expands inside so its impossible to get it ok again..

Data cable.. yes.. is there freely available software ? and what kind of cable is needed ? ..could be handy I guess..
Turn signals.. well everything work.. except the extra-added turnsignals in the front, and the indicators.. both front and back and the original mounted sideflashers works.. ..I wonder if the indicators HAVE to work to pass an inspection.. never had this problem ever
tshark OCT 29, 09:40 AM
No stock oil cooler.

The data cable can be purchased through the Mall. The ALDL software is either free or cheap. I don't remember, it's been so long.