Rescuing my dads old Fiero GT 1987 (Page 6/23)
fierofool OCT 16, 09:09 AM
If you're going to tow for a short distance like a couple of hundred feet, you can probably hook to the sway bar or lower control arm or if the hook is small enough, there are a couple of slots in the sides of the frame, near the sway bar mounts, but it can't be done for any distance. Towing long distance will require a tow dolly at minimum. Manual transmission cars can be towed with the rear wheels on the ground for any distance you want. Automatics can be towed at low speeds for up to 25-30 miles (50 km).

GT's will scrape the nose on most tow dollies. My solution to that problem is to place a brick underneath the end of each ramp then place the end of a 2 ft long 2 x 6 on top of that brick. It changes the approach angle of the nose to the ramps.

When pulling one with the rear wheels on the ramp, be absolutely certain that all the front steering components are in very good condition. If the nose of the car starts to sway while towing at highway speeds, it can cause you to wreck.
Gall757 OCT 16, 10:57 AM

quote
Originally posted by fierofool:
. To add to Gall's answer, you must continue to hold the button as you lower the brake lever. Holding it down as you pull up until you feel resistance. Pull a little more and let the lever down while holding the button.



Do not be gentle with the brake lever....if it was pulled tight years ago, it will be difficult to release. I have used 2 hands pulling the lever hard with the button pushed to get it to 'pop' loose. They came up with this design so you could get out of the car without serious injury.....
Repulsiv OCT 16, 12:32 PM
Ofcourse you all where right, when I did it the right way it worked, thanks, I have driven at least 100 cars, but never one with this construction.. but it is logical that the lever have to be out of the way when you leave the car..

..Some other things..

- The seatbelts.. they are also of some odd construction, and in the registration paper it even have aspecial rule, that they are approved even if they dont fulfil the european regulations. ..however, both belts are not "locking", if I pull it quickly it does not lock, it really should.. oor... ? how is it supposed to work ? both the upper and lower part is rolls ?

Another "broken" thing is the light when i open a door, I guess it should be some light ? ..both "map lights" can be turned on, but nothing automatic.

I also found another broken thing, the windshield washer, the wiper works but no fluid when I engage it.. I hear the pump but no fluid on the windshield.

..Also, now when its cold and damp outside.. i REALLY have to do something about the roof upholstery.. it hangs and look like crap.. is it easy to remove all the inner roof ? ..then I could try to fix it indoors..


Anyway, im happy that the parking brake works ..and the oil pressure meter..

..By the eay, OFCOURSE the theft alarm sounded when I was going into the car.. I HATE it.. have to remove it ASAP..

[This message has been edited by Repulsiv (edited 10-16-2017).]

Gall757 OCT 16, 12:55 PM
As you can see, the parking brake is as good as a theft alarm...
tshark OCT 16, 04:53 PM

quote
Originally posted by Repulsiv:
- The seatbelts.. they are also of some odd construction, and in the registration paper it even have aspecial rule, that they are approved even if they dont fulfil the european regulations. ..however, both belts are not "locking", if I pull it quickly it does not lock, it really should.. oor... ? how is it supposed to work ? both the upper and lower part is rolls ?



Are you referring to the retraction lock, or the latch lock?


quote
Originally posted by Repulsiv:
Another "broken" thing is the light when i open a door, I guess it should be some light ? ..both "map lights" can be turned on, but nothing automatic.



There are 4 overhead lights: 2 inner courtesy dome lights, and 2 outer map lights. The courtesy lights should come on when the door is opened. I believe they also come on with the dimmer switch. There are also 2 courtesy lights under the dash, one light by each door that should come on when the door is open. Check the switches in the door jams and the courtesy fuse. I think the radio is on that same fuse.


quote
Originally posted by Repulsiv:
I also found another broken thing, the windshield washer, the wiper works but no fluid when I engage it.. I hear the pump but no fluid on the windshield.



Check for fluid in the tank. Check the nozzles. Check the hoses to the nozzles.


quote
Originally posted by Repulsiv:
..Also, now when its cold and damp outside.. i REALLY have to do something about the roof upholstery.. it hangs and look like crap.. is it easy to remove all the inner roof ? ..then I could try to fix it indoors..



Well, you have to remove the seats, visors, overhead console, and third brake light to get the headliner out. Also the A-pillar trim needs to be loosened, and the B-pillar trim removed. It's a great time to check/replace the dome/map bulbs, and the side speakers. If you're going to fix the rear wall, also should fix that at this time. Then the seat tracks, the carpet, and check the floor pans.

[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 10-16-2017).]

Repulsiv OCT 17, 02:38 AM

quote
Originally posted by tshark:
Are you referring to the retraction lock, or the latch lock?



The retraction lock, the latch works.


quote

There are 4 overhead lights: 2 inner courtesy dome lights, and 2 outer map lights. The courtesy lights should come on when the door is opened. I believe they also come on with the dimmer switch. There are also 2 courtesy lights under the dash, one light by each door that should come on when the door is open. Check the switches in the door jams and the courtesy fuse. I think the radio is on that same fuse.



Yes, the map lights works, but not the inner ones, one of them even missing the glass, but I found it in one of the the ashtrays ..No working light under the dashboard or in the doors either.

The strange thing is that the door switches obvioulsy works since they trigger the alarm, but still no light, can be the bulbs ofcourse. ..or the theft alarm :P


quote

Check for fluid in the tank. Check the nozzles. Check the hoses to the nozzles.



Unfortunatly there is fluid, but I will check nozzles and the connections.. just one more thing to fix, but it shouldnt be very hard, in worst case a new pump.


quote

Well, you have to remove the seats, visors, overhead console, and third brake light to get the headliner out. Also the A-pillar trim needs to be loosened, and the B-pillar trim removed. It's a great time to check/replace the dome/map bulbs, and the side speakers. If you're going to fix the rear wall, also should fix that at this time. Then the seat tracks, the carpet, and check the floor pans.



Ouch, not very easy then, but doable... What about the rear wall ?

Anyway, a good time to clean everything, but this sounds like a summer-job, nothing I want to do now when its rain and +5C :/

I also noticed that at least one speaker (probably front right) is obviously cracked, sounds very bad, but that should be pretty easy to replace I guess, if its not a very non standard speaker. (as in my SAAB 9-5 Aero, that have the Harman/Kardon AS3 sounds system, where ALL speakers are special with very strange impedances..)
fierofool OCT 17, 09:21 AM
If you're only doing the headliner, you don't need to remove the seats. The front speakers are 4 x 10s. https://www.crutchfield.com...-Speakers.html?tp=99 It's likely that yours still has the original Pontiac speakers. Aftermarket speakers don't have the same harness ends. To avoid splicing your speaker wires, you can get an adapter that plugs into the factory harness, then onto the aftermarket speakers. https://www.crutchfield.com...-Wiring-Harness.html

When removing the headliner, there are two 'gotcha' areas. Remove the lenses from the overhead lighting console and look for screws hidden up inside. The other is the A pillar trim. The retaining tabs often get broken because people are unfamiliar with their design. Even an upholstery shop broke one on my 87, but they had the proper glue to glue the tab back on.

The trim strip that tucks the headliner in around the sunroof will usually have gotten stiff and shrunken over the years. You can place it in a pan of warm water and soften it. Start by installing one end at the sunroof latch and stretch it just a small bit as you work your way around.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 10-17-2017).]

agranlund OCT 17, 10:49 AM

quote
Originally posted by Repulsiv:
- The seatbelts.. they are also of some odd construction, and in the registration paper it even have aspecial rule, that they are approved even if they dont fulfil the european regulations. ..however, both belts are not "locking", if I pull it quickly it does not lock, it really should.. oor... ? how is it supposed to work ? both the upper and lower part is rolls ?



My registration papers also says something about seatbelt exemption. They don't lock when you pull them quickly as in all "normal" cars but I think they lock properly when braking or crashing (as in, if you yank the seatbelts while breaking they should lock?).
"Bilbesiktningen" has never said anything about the belts in my car.

I crashed a Fiero once, many many years ago, the seatbelts behaved the same as in my current car and they stopped me properly in the crash.
Repulsiv OCT 17, 03:58 PM
Hmm, Today i noticed another problem, there is water on the floor, that was NOT the case some days ago..

It have rained.. a LOT the last days, but still, I cannot figure out how it comes in, the passenger side is all dry, but the floor on the driver side is wet, also the mat behind the drivers seat, and the roof over the driver.

Is there any place where it often leak ? sunroof ? ..that strange gap/joint between the panels behind the sunroof ?

I have to take out my water-vaccum-cleaner and remove as much water as I can and then put something to warm it up to make it dry..
RWDPLZ OCT 17, 09:46 PM

quote
Originally posted by agranlund:


My registration papers also says something about seatbelt exemption. They don't lock when you pull them quickly as in all "normal" cars but I think they lock properly when braking or crashing (as in, if you yank the seatbelts while breaking they should lock?).
"Bilbesiktningen" has never said anything about the belts in my car.

I crashed a Fiero once, many many years ago, the seatbelts behaved the same as in my current car and they stopped me properly in the crash.



The Fiero seat belts use an uncommon pendulum system, so they do lock in sudden stops when they need to, but not the annoying way modern seatbelts do when they're moved quickly.

http://articles.chicagotrib...s-strapped-in-safety

They were used on some GM and other vehicles, until automatic passive restraint belts were introduced in the late 80's/early 90's to comply with new laws requiring them or airbags, then those were replaced with the modern annoying sensitive inertial locking ratcheting systems as airbags were required on all vehicles starting in 1995.

[This message has been edited by RWDPLZ (edited 10-17-2017).]