

 |
| I got t-boned (Page 5/11) |
|
Raydar
|
OCT 26, 05:37 PM
|
|
There's not a lot of difference between an automatic and manual car. The biggest PITA is converting the pedals. I've done two of them. The clutch line follows pretty much the same path as the automatic cooler lines. Not a picnic, but not a crusher, either. The Isuzu has a fairly short 1st gear, and a larger jump between 1st and 2nd than the Getrag. The upside is that it has a good FDR and overdrive, and shifts much more nicely than most Getrags. I'm still thinking about putting one in my 4.9 car.
To compare different trannies go to fieroinfo.com Click on the speed calculator link. It has a large number of different transaxles in the dropdowns. You can also enter other values for speeds/gears. There's also a graphic at the bottom.
|
|
|
Phirewire
|
OCT 26, 10:00 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by theogre:
Hope you had Dash Cam etc to prove who hit who... Even front only D-cam can proves you didn't hit them w/o showing the hit. In many places if you can prove you got hit, Medical & car damage Cost is on other I-co even when you have "State Minimum" insurance.
Any think can be fixed, sorry but very likely No.
Because is dark pic to start & black parts, I adjusted Contrast & Brightness to see....

In Short: B pillar is F'd & most I-co's Will Often "Total" the car. Isn't like some fool hit me recently & damage plastic panels then I-co paid very little. In general, I-co looks @ "Book value" (Example: NADA Guides) @ damage > X% of that = Total. In NADA books, most cars > 25 years value Max is ~ $2000-4000.
Longer terms B pillar & likely "Rocker Panel" steel is pushed in. RP is structural & can affect other "frame" sections attach to it. Need to look under the car to see how bad. B pillar pushed is likely bent part of the roof too.
That's before adding need a new Door & other Plastic parts & Paint work.
Many Body Shops won't touch 20 year old cars let alone Fiero & most > 25 year old cars. For 1 often Can't get parts to fix them + dealing w/ rust etc causing more work. Isn't a DIY project even if can find another car to cut out needed panels.
If/When you sign off "Total" doc's the I-co owns it. You can buy it back but can't drive it in many places because have Salvage or related Title & "Canceled" current registration & tag. (Note that in Some States you can Transfer the tag to replacement vehicle & need right forms filled out before signing the "Total" to do this & You Remove the Tag(s).) "Total" then Fix for any reason in many places means big headaches to get the car on the road again. Many states have Special Inspection involving State Police etc. that go way beyond other inspection or states w/o safety inspection. Mean often you get the Total back as Parts Car.
|
|
This changes state by state and by insurance company. As example in Pennsylvania insurance companies are required to find two sources to determine the vehicles value. This is done by one "Book value" (NADA) and local cars for sale. Most company chose a radius with a similar market to you and then see all the same year make and model listed for sale in that area. Those are then averaged together with the book value to present a value. Obviously this is not possible / easily done with older vehicles so they do what is referred to as an offline valuation, which requires adjusters review title transfer and registration listings and find dealers that recently sold similar vehicles. They then take those numbers and average it against the book value. Going this method is typical beneficial for 25+ year old cars as they have switched from being used car lot vehicles to more collectable cars selling for more when they end up at dealerships.
Recently had a customer with an 82 Volkswagen Vanagon that was falling apart get hit total out. The car was junk prior and walked away with over 15 thousand dollars while keeping the van. Salvage value was super low ($300) but because dealers had them for a large some the settlement was high. Looking at local ones on facebook though you see them for sale for $2k in his condition to 25k for perfect examples.
As far as repair goes, like others said anything is repairable. This wouldn't have totaled the car in the 80's but time, parts and acceptable repair practices have changed. Ultimately its your car and your choice though I would agree a chassis swap is the best answer. I would look for a complete donor car in good shape as you don't know if the subframe took any damage or other parts under the car. You are also going to be looking at a full paint job likely to get a satisfactory repair ( Don't know how old your existing paint is or how the car is kept) so might as well get clean panels to begin with as well.
I am not sure how your state handles total losses, but if you plan on repairing that existing vin ask questions before allowing the adjuster to look, in Pennsylvania if the car is deemed a Total loss by the insurance company it is reported ( Supposed to be ) to Penn-Dot and the registration and tag will be revoked and will not be allowed to be reissued until the vehicle has completed an enhanced inspection (showing repairs were completed satisfactory) and you are issued a Re-Constructed title.
Once again also review your state laws and policy's for the right to independent appraisers and your right to dispute the settlement offer. Typically a good appraiser can argue on your behalf to increase the payout, this would be beneficial to cover cost on moving everything over to a clean frame and vin.
I would not personally entertain having the vehicle repaired at a shop for the same reason as the orge stated "Many Body Shops won't touch 20 year old cars let alone Fiero & most > 25 year old cars. For 1 often Can't get parts to fix them + dealing w/ rust etc causing more work." And if a shop is willing to repair it typically you wouldn't want them to as for the quality or the insurance wouldn't want to pay due to the price. A flat rate shop will not want to get into something without diagrams and procedures these days due to liability and time.
Just my thoughts as a licensed adjuster in PA having worked in shops and for the insurance company, I know there is an independent adjuster on here as well in Pennsylvania and he may have input as well.[This message has been edited by Phirewire (edited 10-26-2023).]
|
|
|
Sage
|
OCT 27, 08:32 AM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by sdgdf:
I'd like a t-top car. Anyone know where I can get t-top seals at this point? You have the t-top glass themselves? Pictures of the car?
Edit: forgot, is this a manual car? I need to ditch my 4t65 and need a getrag or isuzu.
|
|
When I say chassis.....that's what it is...JUST the space frame. No interior....although the dash is there, in fact, the back glass has been removed to facilitate an MR2 curved back glass....back glass can easily be reinstalled, no changes to the space frame were made yet.
The ttop glass is all there, but I'd count on getting p-seals.
As I said, it is only the space frame....the cradle has been cleaned up, painted and has the N/A 3800 mounted on it with a 4T60E auto tranny behind it...it's what was in the car it came out of. I believe it was either a Bonneville or Park Avenue, but don't recall exactly ATM. More than likely, a 96' or 97' either way.
Yes, I have some recent pics.
HAGO! 
|
|
|
sdgdf
|
OCT 27, 03:53 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by Sage:
When I say chassis.....that's what it is...JUST the space frame. No interior....although the dash is there, in fact, the back glass has been removed to facilitate an MR2 curved back glass....back glass can easily be reinstalled, no changes to the space frame were made yet.
The ttop glass is all there, but I'd count on getting p-seals.
As I said, it is only the space frame....the cradle has been cleaned up, painted and has the N/A 3800 mounted on it with a 4T60E auto tranny behind it...it's what was in the car it came out of. I believe it was either a Bonneville or Park Avenue, but don't recall exactly ATM. More than likely, a 96' or 97' either way.
Yes, I have some recent pics.
HAGO!  |
|
Where are you located? I was assuming just a frame but was hoping for as much t-top parts as possible.
|
|
|
sdgdf
|
OCT 27, 03:56 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by Phirewire:
This changes state by state and by insurance company. As example in Pennsylvania insurance companies are required to find two sources to determine the vehicles value. This is done by one "Book value" (NADA) and local cars for sale. Most company chose a radius with a similar market to you and then see all the same year make and model listed for sale in that area. Those are then averaged together with the book value to present a value. Obviously this is not possible / easily done with older vehicles so they do what is referred to as an offline valuation, which requires adjusters review title transfer and registration listings and find dealers that recently sold similar vehicles. They then take those numbers and average it against the book value. Going this method is typical beneficial for 25+ year old cars as they have switched from being used car lot vehicles to more collectable cars selling for more when they end up at dealerships.
Recently had a customer with an 82 Volkswagen Vanagon that was falling apart get hit total out. The car was junk prior and walked away with over 15 thousand dollars while keeping the van. Salvage value was super low ($300) but because dealers had them for a large some the settlement was high. Looking at local ones on facebook though you see them for sale for $2k in his condition to 25k for perfect examples.
As far as repair goes, like others said anything is repairable. This wouldn't have totaled the car in the 80's but time, parts and acceptable repair practices have changed. Ultimately its your car and your choice though I would agree a chassis swap is the best answer. I would look for a complete donor car in good shape as you don't know if the subframe took any damage or other parts under the car. You are also going to be looking at a full paint job likely to get a satisfactory repair ( Don't know how old your existing paint is or how the car is kept) so might as well get clean panels to begin with as well.
I am not sure how your state handles total losses, but if you plan on repairing that existing vin ask questions before allowing the adjuster to look, in Pennsylvania if the car is deemed a Total loss by the insurance company it is reported ( Supposed to be ) to Penn-Dot and the registration and tag will be revoked and will not be allowed to be reissued until the vehicle has completed an enhanced inspection (showing repairs were completed satisfactory) and you are issued a Re-Constructed title.
Once again also review your state laws and policy's for the right to independent appraisers and your right to dispute the settlement offer. Typically a good appraiser can argue on your behalf to increase the payout, this would be beneficial to cover cost on moving everything over to a clean frame and vin.
I would not personally entertain having the vehicle repaired at a shop for the same reason as the orge stated "Many Body Shops won't touch 20 year old cars let alone Fiero & most > 25 year old cars. For 1 often Can't get parts to fix them + dealing w/ rust etc causing more work." And if a shop is willing to repair it typically you wouldn't want them to as for the quality or the insurance wouldn't want to pay due to the price. A flat rate shop will not want to get into something without diagrams and procedures these days due to liability and time.
Just my thoughts as a licensed adjuster in PA having worked in shops and for the insurance company, I know there is an independent adjuster on here as well in Pennsylvania and he may have input as well.
|
|
Good to know, its going to be a fight to get a proper value for this car. So what should I do next, hire an independent adjuster? This is a lot to take in right now, I'm preparing for maybe picking up a car this weekend.
|
|
|
Sage
|
OCT 27, 06:16 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by sdgdf:
Where are you located? I was assuming just a frame but was hoping for as much t-top parts as possible. |
|
I am in S.E. Ohio, just across the OH river on I-77. Car is located 7 miles from exit 1 on I-77.
The cradle with engine is not mounted in the chassis. It has a make shift "straight axle" with hubs so it can be pushed around. It currently has the factory 88' wheels on it.
Let me know if you want pics. I also have the computer and wiring harness (adapted to the Fiero) for the 4T60E) There is a low mount alt. bracket as well.
HAGO!  [This message has been edited by Sage (edited 11-01-2023).]
|
|
|
sdgdf
|
OCT 31, 05:29 PM
|
|
I picked up a 88 coupe over the weekend:

I also got good news from insurance, hers accepts 100% liability.
|
|
|
cvxjet
|
OCT 31, 09:55 PM
|
|
|
Was just scrolling down- saw your new car on trailler.....and the dang spider was walking right along-side it...Looked like it was IN the picture...(Yikes!!)
|
|
|
fierofool
|
NOV 01, 07:29 AM
|
|
|
It looks like the coupe I had. Where'd you get it? North Georgia?
|
|
|
Raydar
|
NOV 01, 10:11 AM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by sdgdf:
I picked up a 88 coupe over the weekend:
I also got good news from insurance, hers accepts 100% liability. |
|
Congrats on your new ride!
Now, get ready for her insurance to insult you with their offer.[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 11-01-2023).]
|
|

 |
|