FieroGT/4E introduction (Page 5/13)
Patrick JUL 02, 01:23 AM

quote
Originally posted by fierogt4e:

Too many pictures???



No such thing as "too many pictures". Keep them coming!
sleevePAPA JUL 03, 05:03 PM
I like the length of those rods, but Im going a different route if possible. I don't like the idea of cutting the journals since it will reduce the amount of overlap between the main and rod journals, other part is budget, we'll see where that goes. In the beginning stages of accessory drive mock up and will be working on turbo hot side mock up in the near future. The buick V6 rods are almost a direct fit, but too much offset. Im going to contact K1, Eagle, or Molnar to find out what options I have.

https://www.facebook.com/LZ9GN/
fierogt4e JUL 03, 08:34 PM
SleevePAPA ;
Your chassis looks vary well done. Good looking car!

“I don't like the idea cutting the journals since it will reduce the amount of overlap between the main and rod journals,”
I see this as a concern on these forum . But NASCAR is down to 1 7/8 inch rod journals at 100 + HP per rod. I'll be lucky to make 75 or 80 HP per cylinder.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set...AOSwPe1UFzFD&vxp=mtr
They are 6.200" long, 1.976" on the big end without bearing, for the 1.850" crank journals, .805" wide, with a .787" diameter wrist pin size. These have 3/8" rod bolts. Weight: 530 grams.
NHRA pro stock is going smaller and smaller also in the search for lightness.
I know billet V forged. Nope.
Now cost, OK, the crank guy said $500 for the work. Another shop to balance it $190. So if I saved that and spent it on custom rods...

PS; The motor heads around here don't like Eagle rods.

------------------
Sincerely
George

sleevePAPA JUL 03, 10:15 PM

quote
Originally posted by fierogt4e:

SleevePAPA ;
Your chassis looks vary well done. Good looking car!

“I don't like the idea cutting the journals since it will reduce the amount of overlap between the main and rod journals,”
I see this as a concern on these forum . But NASCAR is down to 1 7/8 inch rod journals at 100 + HP per rod. I'll be lucky to make 75 or 80 HP per cylinder.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set...AOSwPe1UFzFD&vxp=mtr
They are 6.200" long, 1.976" on the big end without bearing, for the 1.850" crank journals, .805" wide, with a .787" diameter wrist pin size. These have 3/8" rod bolts. Weight: 530 grams.
NHRA pro stock is going smaller and smaller also in the search for lightness.
I know billet V forged. Nope.
Now cost, OK, the crank guy said $500 for the work. Another shop to balance it $190. So if I saved that and spent it on custom rods...

PS; The motor heads around here don't like Eagle rods.





If the budget allows for forged rods and pistons, I plan to push the s366 to its limit, likely into the 600hp range at the wheel. The eagle rods with arp 2000 bolts are rated to 1500hp, that's all I know about those. Im considering K1 rods since they are a bit wider and would be within the sideplay limits of the journal. I still need to call them, but there are other irons in the fire right now. I remember someone finding the minimum size rod journals, it may have been Joseph Upson. Pauter has made a set for the LZ9, but they are $$$$. Im interested in what you find for the true stroke, deck height, and rod lenth, as data is varied from person to person.
fierogt4e JUL 04, 12:52 AM
“likely into the 600hp range at the wheel.”
That's a big number. I will be very interested in how she holds up. Have you posted more details on the engine build beyond Facebook?

------------------
Sincerely
George

fierogt4e JUL 04, 01:02 AM
3rd video is up.


------------------
Sincerely
George

[This message has been edited by fierogt4e (edited 10-09-2016).]

fierogt4e JUL 04, 01:54 AM

This motor was never run after GM put it together, paint is still on the valves.


Now I feel better about taking this engine apart. Dirt in #2, rust in #3 and #4. No pitting. .007 over bore is needed for the LS pistons anyway.



The beams on the rods are clearly machined and shot peened. Full floating wrist pins, fractured end caps. All good looking parts.


The wrist pins are all offset to the major thrust side .0315in (.8mm).

------------------
Sincerely
George

sleevePAPA JUL 04, 06:13 PM

quote
Originally posted by fierogt4e:

“likely into the 600hp range at the wheel.”
That's a big number. I will be very interested in how she holds up. Have you posted more details on the engine build beyond Facebook?




I opened up a build thread on turbobuick.com, but not many people took interest. The LC2 is proven to hold big power and not many people care about a non LS engine swap, so that's why I opened a page on FB, it's public so you can click all the pics for details.

Mars ran 10.56 @130mph with the turbo LZ9, cam swap and springs were the only internal engine mods. Was in a 3rd Gen Camaro, been running in the 400hp range for the last 3 years, keeping the car in te 11's for bracket racing. The GN is a bit heavier so the LZ9 will need a bit more to run consistant 10's, that's where ill be happy......for now.

Let me know what you find out for the limits of the rod journal, I looked at some of those carrillo rods.
fierogt4e JUL 05, 12:36 AM

The mold lines say that this is a forged non twist crank. Great stuff!


Oil squirters on all 6 cylinders. Help keep pistons cool when you increase the power.


You can see the light gleam off of all the little chamfers I spent the day making. I also removed all the flashing in the oil drain back holes and smoothed around the tops of them. I prefer this tool to debur the bolt holes.


On the bottom I also removed all the flashing from the oil drain back holes and smoothed around the outlets of them as well . All edges chamferd. And the inside of the block skirts are sanded smooth.
I wanted to get some of this work done before we start to handle it, in and out of the hot tank, or on and off the granite plate, or move it to places to get work done.


I'm not done with the block so I may not be ready to check the dimensions this week.

------------------
Sincerely
George

fierogt4e JUL 05, 02:57 AM

Dobey;
I'm sorry I didn't respond to your questions I must of mist it but I was just going over this thread.

“Are you trying to spin the thing to 10K RPM?”
Not 10K but I think I can push it to 85 or even 9K. I got the titanium valves for less then stainless steel valves and they have never been run. The exhaust were installed. Then at the end of the season removed and sold. Two of the intakes have what looks like water spots on them however I can't feel them or measure a difference. Besides I only need 6.

“I'm kind of afraid to ask what the cam specs you're planning to use are.”
I haven't selected a cam yet because it will depend on what I can do for the bottom end. It will be an, off the shelf, “drag/circle track” type grind I expect.

“You're talking about getting peak N/A power, but with a budget, and then go on to talk about custom grind crank and solid roller valve train. I'm a bit confused.”
I hope to make it a “budget build” by searching the internet high and low for brand name, off the self, parts at the best price I can find. I may need to do some small modes myself. Like narrow the big end of the rods or change the valve notches.
I also will keep my build sorta flexible so if I find something that's a little different than my original plan. Like the titanium valves for less than stainless. And the pistons, a race teem had opened the box, put them in inventory, then later sold them unused. The engine was “new”. GM was putting it on the test stand when they dropped it on the floor. The coolant crossover and pump were broke off so The dismantler sent used ones along. It was in storage various places for 9 years when I got it.
06 f40 trans have a 10% chance of rattling in neutral so GM sold them for next to nothing. Most “new” F40s you see are these. A roll of the dice. But maybe the best torque handling transverse manual trans. You can get a LSD for them. But I would like to be closer to a 4.10 final drive. Like my old M19.

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Sincerely
George