The Getrag F23 Tutorial - By Emc209i (Page 5/28)
Raydar OCT 23, 05:35 PM

quote
Originally posted by L67:





Perfect.
Until this thread, I was completely unaware that the F23 came in a 3.63 ratio. I don't recall seeing it mentioned in the other thread(s).
Thanks!


quote

No, the HTOB and the fitting are different, you'll need the adapter if your permanent line is unmodified.



I needed the adapter for the T-550 as well.
Just wondered if the threaded end on the F23 HTOB was the same as the T-550 HTOB. I know they're different from the Fiero hyd line.
Regardless... Not a show stopper. My adapter was not terribly expensive, in the grand scheme of things.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 10-23-2011).]

mattwa OCT 23, 07:57 PM
I finally got a Getrag F23 today from pull a part.
This images is larger than 153600 bytes. Click to view.

L67 OCT 23, 08:11 PM

quote
Originally posted by Raydar:
I needed the adapter for the T-550 as well.
Just wondered if the threaded end on the F23 HTOB was the same as the T-550 HTOB.



Yes, I understood what you meant. When I said, "No, the HTOB and the fitting are different....", I meant the F23 and F40 fittings are different from the fitting you have currently for your HTOB. These HTOB's do not use threaded connections. The conical end on the adapter is held in place with a hairpin.

Here is a picture I took of the male connector the F23 accepts (no o-ring installed).


Edit: Matt posted above while I was typing this up. His pictures show the HTOB connections well. Thelin's adapter attaches on this side of the bleeder.

[This message has been edited by L67 (edited 10-23-2011).]

Raydar OCT 23, 08:38 PM
Ah! Got it.
Thanks for the clarification.
ericjon262 OCT 24, 12:27 AM
------------------
there's a Group on 60degreeV6.com for us 660 Fiero owners!

Fiero Owner's group on 60degreeV6.com

[This message has been edited by ericjon262 (edited 08-05-2016).]

mattwa OCT 24, 12:36 AM
I wanted to add some information if anyone cares about how the three shafts inside the F23 work (not to steal L67's thread of course). I got this information right from http://www.automotiveforums...rag_f23_rebuild.html


quote
Originally posted by J-Ri @ Automotive Forums:
First we start with the input shaft. The order of major hard componants goes as such.

Left to Right: 1st Drive Gear, 2nd Drive Gear, 5th Drive Gear, 3rd Drive Gear, 3-4 synchronizer Assm., 4th Drive Gear.



-Facts to remember are 1st, 2nd, and 5th drive gear are cast as part of the input shaft meaning they always turn with the shaft, 3rd and 4th drive gears only drive at the speed of the input shaft when the synchronizer sleeve (which is splined to the input shaft) is locked into either gear.

Next we have the Countershaft.

Top to bottom: Countershaft Final Drive, 2nd gear #1 driven, 2-1 synchronizer Assm., 1st gear #1 Driven



-Facts to remember are, the Countershaft final drive gear is part of the shaft, 1st and 2nd #1 driven gears are only splined to the shaft via the synchronizer being engaged to the gears.

And lastly we have the output shaft.

Left to Right: Final Drive, Rev final driven, R-5 synchronizer Assm., 5th Final Driven, 3rd Final Driven, 4th Final Driven



-Facts to remember are, the Big gear just to the right of the Final drive gear spins freely on the shaft along with the 5th gear final driven until either is selected with the synchronizer sleeve. 3rd final driven and 4th final driven are part of the output shaft and obviously are always engaged with it.

1st Gear: Begins with the first gear from the left on the input shaft. Power is transmitted to the 1st gear #1 driven gear on the countershaft (Big one on the bottom) when the shift fork engages the 1-2 synchronizer into the 1st gear position. The gear is locked to the countershaft and power is transmitted through the shaft to the countershaft final drive which meshes with the second to last gear from the left on the output shaft. From there it turns the final drive gear which of course, turns the differential.

2nd Gear: The shift fork on the countershaft moves back out of first gear position and into second. The second gear from the left on the input shaft drives the 2nd gear from the bottom on the countershaft which is now locked to the countershaft via the synchronizer. Again it drives the Countershaft Final drive gear which meshes with the second to last gear on the output shaft transmiting power through the output shaft to the final drive gear, into the diff.

3rd Gear: Much simpler then 1st, 2nd, or reverse. 3rd is engaged by sliding the 3-4 synchronizer sleeve toward the left locking 3rd drive gear to the input shaft, this transmits power to the second to the last gear on the output shaft which again, is part of the output shaft, turning the differential.

4th Gear: Similar to 3rd the synchronizer sleeve is slid to the right engaging 4th drive gear and locking it to the input shaft. That gear drives the gear furthest to the right on the output shaft which is also part of the output shaft, Driving the output shaft and the differential.

5th Gear: 5th Gear is simple like 3rd and 4th however instead of locking the DRIVE gears to the input shaft they are ALWAYS part of the input shaft which means we have to Lock the DRIVEN gears to the output shaft. In this case the biggest gear (3rd in from left) on the input shaft is the drive gear, again note it is part of the shaft. Its mating member on the output shaft rotates freely until we slide the 5-R synchro towards the right. This locks the 5th Driven gear to the output shaft which turns the Final drive gear.

Reverse: Reverse is unique in this transmission since it uses 1st gear componants. The power flow moves from the first gear on the left of the input shaft, through the largest gear on the countershaft (which spins freely on the countershaft since the synchronizer is not engaged and it rides on the shaft with a roller bearing) This big gear then drives the Large gear 2nd in from left on the output shaft, but since there is an extra step in the gear train the output rotation is reversed. A good way to look at this is that an odd number of meshing gearsets will allow both input and output shafts to rotate the same direction, an even number of gearsets will allow the input and output shafts to rotate in opposite directions.

My pics..



another pic of the fork and gear


all three shafts out and on the bench


all installed about to seal up and reinstall trans back in car


Make sure you use an anaerobic sealer between the housing or you'll get a fluid leak.

[This message has been edited by mattwa (edited 10-24-2011).]

ALLTRBO OCT 24, 02:01 PM
Just an FYI for those low-torque high-revving guys, there is also a 4.17 FD option from the HHR and even a 4.41 FD from the Saturn Vue.

[This message has been edited by ALLTRBO (edited 10-24-2011).]

LEEEZARD DEC 03, 08:40 PM
great write up. i have a new zero mile 2010 fy1 f23. have a new obx lsd. also have a 2002 f23 that i took the bellhousing from. made my own adapter to use with my ls aluminum v8. have mounted in cradle but thats about it right now. i might need one of your custom cables though. ill let you know.
nitroheadz28 DEC 03, 08:53 PM

quote
Originally posted by LEEEZARD:

great write up. i have a new zero mile 2010 fy1 f23. have a new obx lsd. also have a 2002 f23 that i took the bellhousing from. made my own adapter to use with my ls aluminum v8. have mounted in cradle but thats about it right now. i might need one of your custom cables though. ill let you know.



You might want to get the cable now cause we're doing a group buy on them.

In case you haven't seen it:

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/087698.html
RWDPLZ DEC 04, 10:30 PM
Since this seems like THE F23 info thread, I'd like to add: GM made a DVD about a complete teardown and rebuild of the F23 transmission, I have a copy, it's REALLY technical and in-depth.