Phlebmaster's 86 Fiero GT Evolution- full of pics and win! (Page 4/5)
88Fingers DEC 27, 03:20 PM
Hey Aaron, I am diggin' the blue man! Nice.
Phlebmaster DEC 27, 05:42 PM

quote
Originally posted by 88Fingers:

Hey Aaron, I am diggin' the blue man! Nice.




Thank you! I don't think it will rust now... hehe

I am deciding what color I want to do my wheels and upper intake/valve covers. I wanted to try out the blue anyway to see how it makes me feel. I will be getting the gasket kit to pull off the plenum and EGR so I can replace the rest of the lines and EGR/tube...and add the heat sink under the distributor.

I do have a question..... when is that dist/alt cooling fan supposed to come on??? I have no idea if it is working or even when it is supposed to come on.

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Aaron H
1986 Fiero GT 2.8- A dream car of mine since childhood- Stock now, but looking for creative options to upgrade this wonderful car

fierofool DEC 27, 09:19 PM
You might want to dress out your thermostat cap and gasket area to remove the powder coating. They need to be pretty smooth in order to seal correctly. The coating and color look good, though.
Phlebmaster DEC 28, 03:51 PM

quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

You might want to dress out your thermostat cap and gasket area to remove the powder coating. They need to be pretty smooth in order to seal correctly. The coating and color look good, though.



Good point... I have the coating heavy enough that I can flat sand it and still keep the coverage.

Any thoughts on that cooling fan in the engine compartment?

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Aaron H
1986 Fiero GT 2.8- A dream car of mine since childhood- Stock now, but looking for creative options to upgrade this wonderful car

Patrick DEC 28, 04:52 PM

quote
Originally posted by Phlebmaster:

I do have a question..... when is that dist/alt cooling fan supposed to come on??? I have no idea if it is working or even when it is supposed to come on.



It's supposed to come on whenever the rad fan comes on.
Phlebmaster DEC 31, 11:16 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

It's supposed to come on whenever the rad fan comes on.



Many thanks good sir... Yes it works! that is a good thing.

I got my cruise control to work! That is also encouraging in regards to the vac leaks and electrical stuff getting sorted out.

Question- I replaced the clutch master cylinder and I am having a hell of a time getting it to work right. I bench bled (primed) the new MC before installing, then opened the bleeder on the slave in the engine compartment. It looks like I get all the air out and the clutch works perfectly...then after driving it a few miles it gets air in the system again. Am I missing something with the bleeding procedure? I used a bleeder tool first time, then manually open/closed the bleeder with help after it failed the first time. There is no fluid visible on the ground, so it is a mystery right now. I suspect the MC cup is too loose and sucking air with use...which I can exchange it. But I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something...


Next! More powder coating done. The engine vents were pretty ugly so I pulled them and worked some magic.

I pulled the back plates off by drilling out the rivets. I wanted these blue and the top vents gloss black.



After a good scrubbing and then wipe down with Acetone they were ready.. I had to do a bike frame anyway so it worked out...





These go under the top vents and the color should add contrast to the engine bay



Next was the gloss black for the top vents... they look great! Now I need to reassemble everything with rivets and see how they look together




Happy Reading!

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Aaron H
1986 Fiero GT 2.8- A dream car of mine since childhood- Stock now, but looking for creative options to upgrade this wonderful car

fierofool DEC 31, 12:17 PM
One man clutch bleeding procedure. It's always worked for me.

Lift the left front wheel with a floor jack just enough that it clears the ground. This raises the MC higher than the slave and also tilts the slave bleeder valve end upward.
Remove the MC cap and fill the reservoir to the top. Leave the cap off the MC and fluid bottle.
Go to the rear and open the slave bleeder valve.
With a heavy tool, strike the side of the slave several times. This will dislodge any air stuck to the cylinder walls near the pushrod.
Keep an eye on the MC and refill it before it goes empty.
Return to the slave and strike the slave some more.
Repeat the process one more time and when the fluid drops to the FULL level in the MC, close the slave bleeder valve and replace the MC cap.
You should have a full clutch at this point and it should retain a good pedal if all parts of the system are working properly.

Due to the close proximity of the fluid line to the exhaust and coolant hose just below the slave, I use a length of the ribbed plastic wire harness cover to cover the fluid line from the flexible joint all the way down to the frame. This insulates the fluid line and acts as a heat sink to prevent the fluid from boiling.
Spadesluck JAN 02, 03:55 PM
Phlebmaster, your thermostat housing looked just like mine did on my 87 that I am rebuilding. The car had a coolant leak according to the previous owner and I am sure he was just putting water in it. The housing itself was full of pin holes from rust. I just replaced it with a much better shape one. I did not feel like putting in the effort like you did to fix mine. ha Awesome job on it!
Phlebmaster JAN 05, 11:42 AM

quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

One man clutch bleeding procedure. It's always worked for me.

Lift the left front wheel with a floor jack just enough that it clears the ground. This raises the MC higher than the slave and also tilts the slave bleeder valve end upward.
Remove the MC cap and fill the reservoir to the top. Leave the cap off the MC and fluid bottle.
Go to the rear and open the slave bleeder valve.
With a heavy tool, strike the side of the slave several times. This will dislodge any air stuck to the cylinder walls near the pushrod.
Keep an eye on the MC and refill it before it goes empty.
Return to the slave and strike the slave some more.
Repeat the process one more time and when the fluid drops to the FULL level in the MC, close the slave bleeder valve and replace the MC cap.
You should have a full clutch at this point and it should retain a good pedal if all parts of the system are working properly.

Due to the close proximity of the fluid line to the exhaust and coolant hose just below the slave, I use a length of the ribbed plastic wire harness cover to cover the fluid line from the flexible joint all the way down to the frame. This insulates the fluid line and acts as a heat sink to prevent the fluid from boiling.




This is the easiest procedure to follow and works flawlessly! Thank you....

I still have air getting into the system somehow, so I will exchange the MC as a precaution. There is one other possibility- the bleeder valve on the slave was pretty corroded but I cleaned it up well and it looks like it is sealing. No fluid leaking at any of the connections and they are all tight. At least I can get her back on the road when it buggers up on me. LOL

Next! As you may have the experience- my gas gauge is not exact so I ran out of gas. BOO! But I now know where empty is. One other fact to know- I was experiencing a lot of bucking at low RPM. This was very annoying in heavy traffic. This was caused (not by a vac leak as I suspected) but the fuel filter was full-o-crap and clogged. New filter is on now and she idles smooth! No more bucking and low speed or idle hunt!~ So be sure to check this if you have the same issues- and especially if your tank has run dry and sucked 30 year old junk from the tank into the filter like mine did.

Ever Onward!

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Aaron H
1986 Fiero GT 2.8- A dream car of mine since childhood- Stock now, but looking for creative options to upgrade this wonderful car

Phlebmaster JAN 05, 11:52 AM

quote
Originally posted by Spadesluck:

Phlebmaster, your thermostat housing looked just like mine did on my 87 that I am rebuilding. The car had a coolant leak according to the previous owner and I am sure he was just putting water in it. The housing itself was full of pin holes from rust. I just replaced it with a much better shape one. I did not feel like putting in the effort like you did to fix mine. ha Awesome job on it!



Thank you! The good thing is I now have a spare but don't expect to see anything like this happen again with the solder, JB Weld and paint. The Powder coated option will get installed if I need it. Or if someone else has a need.

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Aaron H
1986 Fiero GT 2.8- A dream car of mine since childhood- Stock now, but looking for creative options to upgrade this wonderful car