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New fiero owner (Page 3/3) |
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dremu
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JUN 12, 07:03 PM
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Wrt the distributor O-ring, note that replacing it with another Fiero-era one is pointless and it will just leak again. You want a later one, which IIRC is made of Viton (more oil-resistant.) The AC Delco number is 10477565; if you search using that number you'll find lots of posts here about it. While you have the dizzy out to replace the O-ring, replace the ignition module inside (also with AC Delco), or at least remove yours, clean the metal surface and re-goop it on with heat sink grease you get from a computer store. This will keep it performing properly as they're famous for heat-related failures.
-- A
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tricktickler
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JUN 12, 08:29 PM
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quote | Originally posted by dremu:
Wrt the distributor O-ring, note that replacing it with another Fiero-era one is pointless and it will just leak again. You want a later one, which IIRC is made of Viton (more oil-resistant.) The AC Delco number is 10477565; if you search using that number you'll find lots of posts here about it. While you have the dizzy out to replace the O-ring, replace the ignition module inside (also with AC Delco), or at least remove yours, clean the metal surface and re-goop it on with heat sink grease you get from a computer store. This will keep it performing properly as they're famous for heat-related failures.
-- A
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Interesting and thanks. At least see no fresh oil, just caked over **** , but in time my goal is to get it running stock as good as possible. Also the axle seal is leaking, but again its not that fresh.
I checked on the fiero again. the brake is back to normal so I suppose it needs a brake flush pretty bad. I know the fluid looks terrible, it probably is creating air when it gets hot. Going to work on that first and foremost and I did find a lot of information about getting engine codes.
I see a light that says service engine soon, is this the same as check engine?
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Patrick
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JUN 13, 11:32 AM
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quote | Originally posted by tricktickler:
I checked on the fiero again. the brake is back to normal so I suppose it needs a brake flush pretty bad. I know the fluid looks terrible
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Be forewarned... the steel bleeder valves have a nasty habit of becoming seized and then breaking off in the aluminum calipers.
quote | Originally posted by tricktickler:
I did find a lot of information about getting engine codes.
I see a light that says service engine soon, is this the same as check engine?
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Hopefully you found this page - ECM Codes
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tricktickler
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JUN 16, 05:01 PM
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So I read the engine codes. Its only giving me 35 Idle Speed Error and 42 Electronic Spark Timing. Which I guess could be worse. I expected more than 2 codes.
If I fixed the spark timing, cause it was misfiring, is the code still there from before or is it still a problem? I wonder if the spark plug wires aren't making a good connection.
I went about looking for vacuum leaks with the engine off ( kind of a mistake ). I looked at the air filter and the entire housing is rusty and brittle. In moving it around decent sized chunks of the housing fell off or are falling off. Might be salvageable, but if I can find a replacement part that would be ideal. I think the car was running rich (less so after replacing spark plug wires) but also idling high, especially when I came to a stop in traffic. It would seemingly go to a normal idle after a few seconds. Is that normal?
I found a piece of dry rotted hose. This is just below the air filter housing. What is this supposed to lead to?

also found this plug connected to nothing.

What does my diagnostic port connect to to get some analytical data? Most of my gauges don't work. speedo and voltage work.

Finally, Is there a more appropriate place on the forum for me to be asking these questions?
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Fiero Thomas
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JUN 16, 06:06 PM
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Patrick
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JUN 16, 07:39 PM
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It would also be helpful if you could post your images properly. You cannot put IMG tags on a URL (web address) and expect it to post an image correctly. It needs to be a JPG that you're linking to.... preferably no wider than 1024 pixels, and a file size no larger than 300 kb.
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