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| Painting the Metal Rear Deck Vents (Page 3/5) |
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Kevin87FieroGT
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MAY 03, 02:18 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by USMUCL:
The original color from the factory for these vents was SATIN black, right? As opposed to gloss black . . . |
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Yes. Pretty well matches the trim on the rest of the car. Neither my '87 GT or '86 SE had gloss black on the vents, satin for both. Both cars stock.
Not sure if SEM Trim Paint is self priming our not. In my case I still had some factory paint as the base for the SEM paint.[This message has been edited by Kevin87FieroGT (edited 05-03-2017).]
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rogergarrison
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MAY 03, 02:44 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by fierofool:
I never tried the chromate. I use Seymour zinc phosphate green primer for bare metal and wood. Personally I would powdercoat grills. Let someone else do the hard work of stripping the nooks and crannies. I don't have the patience. |
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Its more or less the same thing. Used for priming aircraft parts, can be green or yellow. On airplane surfaces I also anodize them after stripping and primering. I dont see that being necessary on car parts. Not much work to stripper them. Blasting makes a better surface to stick to. I paint chrome and glass after sandblasting and never had any peel.
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fierosound
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MAY 06, 09:44 AM
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fieroguru
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MAY 06, 10:03 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by USMUCL:
It didn't even dawn on me that "high heat" paint might be necessary till I happen to lay my hand on one of the vents today after idling for 20 minutes. They get fairly toasty.
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About a decade ago I took a temp gun to the engine vent on my SBC Fiero after a drive on a 80+ degree day. The passenger vent was about 170 degrees. Hot enough to burn, but not hot enough to require high temp paint.
I am getting ready to paint my vents in a few weeks and will be using the SEM 39673 Black Self Etching Primer and SEM 39143 trim paint for the top coat.
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USMUCL
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MAY 06, 10:19 PM
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unboundmo
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MAY 08, 11:08 PM
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I did high heat for underside and regular rustoleum gloss black for the top.. Reg sprays can withstand 220 degrees-most paints... So I felt for the underside to go with a little better higher tolerance to heat
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2.5
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MAY 10, 01:54 PM
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Mickey_Moose
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MAY 11, 03:22 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by TXGOOD:
I was just going to get mine powdercoated. |
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That is what I did (and the mirror housings). 
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migs
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MAY 13, 08:02 PM
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Thanks for the inspiration here guys I've been meaning to work on these and since i have a home powder coating and blasting setup its just time. Got the 1 side completely redone in about 3 hrs which included cooling off time while i went out to buy rivets. The OEM finish on the top part is definately powdercoat and the under tray I think is possibly just a spray paint as it comes off much easier. Did both on mine in semi gloss black not sure what the new OEM part would have been after looking at the finished product i wonder if the undertray was more of a flat finish to make it less visible.
Before
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Troy Eckhardt
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MAR 23, 12:10 PM
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Have you all found that the rivets can just be drilled out to separate the two pieces? Afterward, can they be screwed back together, or must they be riveted?
Thanks,
Troy
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