Rescuing my dads old Fiero GT 1987 (Page 21/23)
Repulsiv MAR 28, 05:58 AM
Easy8: Yes, that was why I wanted a fuel pressure meter, should be obvious if thats the problem if the pressure drops at the same time it start to misfire.

Hmm, so its so much troubles dropping the tank, it didnt look that har dlooking in service manuals.. Hmm not so funny, but I guess it have to be done. not really looking forward to it anyway.

Also I have the problem of cleaning the tank, I had the same problem on one of my motorcycles (Suzuki GS500e '81), the tank was full of rust and it clogged the carbs, in that case it was easy to remove the tank ofcourse so I removed it and cleaned the tank first with alcohol, then citric acid until all rust was gone, then water and alcohol after that, perfect, the tank was now clean! ..the problem was that it was only rust and paint that held it togethler so I got a lot of leaks after that.. I have soldered several of the holes but as soon as I fix one it start leaking in another place.. probably have to get one of those "tank in tank" solutions.. Anyway.. thats a different story.

Rexgirl: Ah, you are right, but strangely enough it appears if I do a search for "fuel pressure" hmm.. If O know the name of the testport I could probably find something, maybe even the meter I fould locally would work, but no guarantees..

Actually I have one of those laying around too..

https://www.biltema.se/bil-...yckmatare-2000016980

They are cheap and is supposed to work for fuel too.. It probably not have the correct range however, 10PSI seem to be very low, probably made for carburettor pressure and not fuel injection..

Unfortunatly I don't think he want to go around and try to find one, he probably want me to order it so he can just bring it home.
Easy8 MAR 28, 10:46 AM
Repulsiv,
Yeah I sort of missed that in your post (read the posts completly) There are american cars in the EU so there should be a fuel pressure tester there, you do not need anything fancy or expensive. We have the old stand by cheap Chinese Harbor frieght here. This is what you are looking for:

https://www.harborfreight.c...mp-tester-62623.html

To remove a Fiero fuel tank you need to crawl under the car and disconnect the hoses and wiring going the tank. Sounds easier than it really is. Then pull the plate and remove the straps. Once done you can lower it. Reverse to get it back in. Most of us do not have access to a lift so all of this is done on your back under the car in very tight confines. Its just not fun.

As far as cleaning out the tank, you will face the exact same issues with the Fiero tank as your bikes. Acid will remove the rust and probably cause leaks. You can get products to seal the tank again but I have never had much luck with them in the past. Check your PM's.
Rexgirl MAR 28, 03:18 PM
Here is a helpful page that describes what is needed to replace the Fiero's fuel pump and strainer :
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/096769.html

The C-4 Corvette may use a similar Schrader Valve to our Fiero's, but I am not positive that is true.
Rexgirl MAR 28, 03:35 PM
Note that the Fiero in the link above is a 4 cylinder car, which runs much lower fuel pressure than your V-6 engine. Other than the fuel pump's pressure, everything else in the link is the same for your car..
Repulsiv MAY 20, 02:03 PM
The Fiero is alive!

Now the weather start to get better and I have decided to take down the tank, make it empty, clean it with alcohol, use a rust-transformer made for gastanks in it and then clean it withn alcohol again.
After that I will replace the fuel strain, or maybe the pump too, have not decided yet.. which ones on rockauto are REALLY plug'n'play ? with same connectors and everything ?

Anyway, reading up on the howto rexgirl posted the link to, I just wonder one thing, the cable to the pump, taht is routed into the passenger compartment, where do you disconnect that ?
can you pull it out so long that you can disconnect it later ? or ?

funny enough it seem like the fuel strain is really easy to buy in sweden, one model of volvo had the same part as understood it ..and volvo parts i veeery common here.
Rexgirl MAY 21, 06:19 PM
Everything you need to know about pulling the fuel tank is in the link above. The connectors for the fuel tank wiring are on the engine bay side of the firewall. Once the connectors are released, the wiring will come out with the tank. Maybe this pic will help a little (ignore the red lines):

Sorry, I don't remember who posted this pic originally.

You would be very wise to change the fuel pump when you have the tank out. The guys here like Delco parts. I believe them.
Repulsiv AUG 01, 01:17 PM
The fuel tank is.. DOWN.

Not fun at all.

I followed http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/096769.html mostly, but did some things different.. for example I removed the heat shield completly, it was 4 screws and
made it possible to disconnect the cable from under the car. I also removed the fasternes for the pipes that go along the tank to give a bit mroe space to move it.

I also didnt see the third fuel line.. so I thought "maybe thats because its V6 or from another year".. yea right, when I took the tank down I found it and it was full of fuel too..
WAS.. seconds later the fuel was in my face instead.

The biggest problems where to remove those hoses.. they really liked their pipes also I got a gasoline shower a few times, including in my face, lucky enough I had safety goggles,
but the gas didnt taste very well.. also my beard probably is highly flammable now.

And yes, before I started I removed the fuel pump power, started the engine and let it go until it stopped (surprisingly long, several seconds!), I also opened the fuel filler cap
and released the pressure..

The tankbands fell down after I had removed the tank, i guess its just to put them in place.. I HOPE..

The fuel strainer wasnt very dirty.. it was dirty but not DIRTY.. but I swapped pump and strainer anyway.. I got the wrong gasked for the tank but the old one was in good condition.
The electric connector where correct, but I got one supplied with the pump anyway.

I also took away all fuel from the tank (all possible) and I couldnt see any rust inside the tank.. ok, that plastic baffle is in the way but.. the gasoline I pumped up from the tank was fine too.

..now I just have to put that damn thing back.. not sure if I can do it today, it starts to get late.. still, I already smell gasoline..

I dont rally look forward to it, neither to get the hoses on the pipes, or the tank back up.. even if its more or less empty now..

Will post a few pics later..

[This message has been edited by Repulsiv (edited 08-01-2019).]

Repulsiv AUG 01, 01:45 PM
By the way, the fuel pump cable was rounted a different way, very very hard to remove, and probably the same to get back, so I rerouted it the same way as in the picture instead.

[This message has been edited by Repulsiv (edited 08-01-2019).]

Repulsiv AUG 01, 05:09 PM
Look at this tank!



I seen tanks on 5yo cars that have look worse.. it desnt even look bad under, I suspect that someone changed this to a new one at one time , and then never used the car in wintertime..
I say that because its too good to be 32 years old, also all hoseclamps where of a swedish brand.

Here is the tank stuff (tankarmatur in swedish)



And here is a closer picture of the fuel strainer..



Its not clean, but can this really be the problem ??

Anyway, I cannot have thos fuel tank on the ground all day..

It wasn't easy to get it back, but with help of my garage jack, my foots, legs, a piece of wood and some violence I got it in place in the front, and let it be not in place in the rear
while I routed the cables and connected the hoses.. ..I said that those hoses really liked their pipes.. NOT ANYMORE.. now they really didnt want to be friends

Removing and reconnecting the hoses is the WORST part of everything..

When I had just one hose left I felt that "Hmm, its cold, and its dark too.. and hmm.. im hungry", looked at my phone and noticed that the time was about 21:30 (9.30pm that is), and
I didnt even had dinner yet.. oops.. so I packed all my tools and locked the car and went in for some pizza and a shower.. (still smell gasoline..)

Tomorrow I'll try to buy some fresh gas and then when I reconnected that last hose I will try to start it to see that everything works (at least as good as before), then if everything is ok
I will put back the crossmember and tighten the tankbands, and put back all small stuff like holders for the pipes and the heat shield.
Rexgirl AUG 01, 05:50 PM
Thank you for your update.
Before installing the tank, it's a good idea to check (with a ohm meter) that the fuel level sender moves through it's full range of motion after it is mounted in the tank as the float arm can sometimes hang up on the internal plastic baffle. . You might also want to put power to the fuel pump for a very short time to confirm it runs. Be aware that if you delete the pulsator (just above the pump) you will need to replace it with the proper SAE 30R10 (~20 Euro/foot) submersible fuel hose, not regular regulator injection hose.