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My Fiero caught on fire! (Page 2/4) |
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theogre
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JUN 10, 03:16 PM
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quote | Originally posted by cvxjet: Ogre, thank you for suggestions; I checked my fluid- it is twice as high as the full mark so I am good there, and also on my extinguisher I pushed the green pin in and it popped back out so good there.....As far as plastic nozzle/handle...I had one of the recalled FEs in my boat, which did have problems with plastic nozzle, but this is a newer one that is different in design...That being said, I would like to find a small Metal-handle one that doesn't cost two arms and one leg........ |
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They make small FE w/ metal valves... Yes cost more. Note for Boats... depending on size and Registration... Often requires FE and to meet USCG and be label as such. Most plastic and many metal top FEs are Not USCG certified.
Quick example: Kidde Mariner 5, UL rated 5-B:C is U.S.C.G and DOT approved costing.... ~ $19.
If your required to have FE on a boat and get inspected/boarded by USCG, Harbor Patrol, etc. then get fines for not having or having but not USCG cert units.
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Zentaury
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JUN 11, 08:41 AM
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Rickady88GT
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JUN 11, 01:20 PM
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quote | Originally posted by dremu:
In addition / further detail to Ogre's points, as I went through something similar recently:
Misadjusted parking brake or frozen rear calipers will make the pads ride down on the rotors, leading to excess heat and then smoke. In my case the pads were contaminated with brake fluid from leaky piston seals, so the pads expanded and dragged the rotors enough to bring me from 50+ MPH to no more than 20 even at WOT =)) The brake fluid started boiling out of the pads, which is really quite a nasty stink, and made quite a lot of smoke. I thought I'd blown the tranny at first.
Also, given that (1) you had flames and (2) you used water, I'd bet the rotors are warped. They're relatively inexpensive, so rather than turning them I'd just replace them outright.
You have your work cut out for you, but patience (plus a manual, Ogre's Cave and the occasional forum search) and you'll be back on the road in no time.
Oh, and yeah ...

Peace of mind. Oddly I have one in all of my cars, which with the exception of the Fiero are MUCH newer (2012+), but maybe I'll need to help out the guy next to me, especially if he's in a Fiero 
-- A
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May I suggest that you do not keep the fire extinguisher in the trunk like that. If you had an engine fire, opening the deck lid will fuel and fan the fire. An engine fire should be fought front a closed deck lid through the deck lid vents first. This will help suppress the fire some what, before you open the deck kid. Not to mention the possibility of a fire jumping out at you as you open the deck lid to get the extinguisher, you may not even get it out?
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dremu
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JUN 11, 04:53 PM
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quote | Originally posted by Rickady88GT:
May I suggest that you do not keep the fire extinguisher in the trunk like that. If you had an engine fire, opening the deck lid will fuel and fan the fire. An engine fire should be fought front a closed deck lid through the deck lid vents first. This will help suppress the fire some what, before you open the deck kid. Not to mention the possibility of a fire jumping out at you as you open the deck lid to get the extinguisher, you may not even get it out? |
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All valid points. It was a quickie afterthought when I got the car, better than nothing. Plus, as this thread demonstrates, there are many flammable bits on a Fiero =))
If nothing else it'll have to go when the T-Tops get put in. I don't see room in the passenger compartment for it (5#ers are surprisingly big, but the minimum I'll use), so I think it'll move to the frunk.
-- A
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dremu
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JUN 11, 04:58 PM
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quote | Originally posted by Zentaury:
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Ouch.
You may know all this and are just showing off =)) but if you can't find a good used set, the Fiero Store has them, and I gather Centric is rebuilding them, though I don't know if yours are, well, worth saving 
-- A
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Zentaury
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JUN 12, 12:56 AM
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quote | Originally posted by dremu:
Ouch.
You may know all this and are just showing off =)) but if you can't find a good used set, the Fiero Store has them, and I gather Centric is rebuilding them, though I don't know if yours are, well, worth saving 
-- A |
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I can’t remove the melted brake hose... how can I do it? A socket? A box end wrench? I tried wit I have it with PB blaster for 2 days but can’t get it loose.
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dremu
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JUN 12, 06:19 PM
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quote | Originally posted by Zentaury:
I can’t remove the melted brake hose... how can I do it? A socket? A box end wrench? I tried wit I have it with PB blaster for 2 days but can’t get it loose. |
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You mean the banjo bolt into the caliper? (#7 below) That can be tricky as the caliper is aluminum and the bolt is steel, so it might have been rusted in there even before the fire. Dissimilar metals and all that.
Penetrating oil like you said, PB Blaster, Kroil is a good start, After than I'd put it in a vise, wrapped in a rag, put either a box end wrench on it or maybe a flare nut wrench, and tap it with a ballpeen hammer.
Or do you mean at the top end where it attaches to the hardline? There's a clip that holds the soft line in ... umm...

a picture can be worth 1000 words, this from the FSM. #3 is the thing. Get that off with a flathead screw driver, then CAREFULLY hold the flare nut (#12) on the hard line (#8), either with a flare nut wrench, or if you absolutely have to, vise grips. At this point you can use anything for the softline since it's shot, and hopefully they'll come apart?
-- A[This message has been edited by dremu (edited 06-12-2020).]
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Zentaury
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JUN 12, 07:08 PM
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The banjo bolt is out. The other end is the problem.
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Zentaury
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JUN 12, 07:10 PM
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dremu
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JUN 12, 08:30 PM
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Well, if it were me, I'd just replace the hardline. I'm a "Might As Well" kind of guy, as in "If I'm gonna replace part (x) I Might As Well replace part (y)", which is why my recent experience with bad rear calipers led to new rotors, all four calipers, new soft hoses, and master cylinder. There were actually good reasons to replace all of these parts, mind you, I wasn't shotgunning it, but it definitely snowballed. As my bank balance reminds me I just don't like the skimp on safety items like brakes, nor do I want to do it twice. I hate, hate, HATE bleeding brakes. Especially on the Fiero when you have to tilt the stupid car nose down to get it to bleed.
Anyway, Fiero Store has a kit for the whole car, which is expensive and the long lines are bent to fit in the box and have to be unbent to use, but you could get the kit and only replace the lines that you really need. That flare end is looking a bit beat and it's only gonna get worse; this is voice of experience talking IIRC it's hard to find whatever weird metric size hard line that is in off-the-shelf lengths, and flaring the end is also a challenge, so making your own is probably out of the question.
However, the usual rules for getting fasteners un-stuck apply. You can try ATF, as it's a good penetrating oil, or a 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone. You can try a propane torch on the soft line side, expanding it a hair might crack it loose. It will also sizzle out all of the oil you've sprayed in there and melt what's left of the rubber and whatever other goop, so use safety glasses, and keep your shop fire extinguisher handy. Again, voice of experience ..whistle..
Then big honking vice grips, the round ones, on the hose end and again, being careful with that flare nut, the needle nose kind on the flare nut, and see if it twists. And slight shock, e.g. with a ballpeen, is like using an impact wrench and can help. In moderation, though; don't beat it with a sledge!
Oh, absolute worst case ... Dremel with a cutoff wheel. You can slice lengthwise into JUST the softline fitting (red), and then maybe across (blue), without getting into the threads on the flare nut. That will require a very steady hand, but once sliced, you can spread it with a flathead as a prybar and then turn it off.

I really like the "EZ-lock" fiberglass-reinforced cutoff wheels, fwiw.
My two cents, which in today's economy doesn't matter if .02 USD or CAD, still worthless 
-- A[This message has been edited by dremu (edited 06-12-2020).]
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