Rescuing my dads old Fiero GT 1987 (Page 17/23)
Repulsiv JUL 08, 05:43 AM
I THINK I got the pickupcoil wires in the right order, but not 100% sure.. what happens if they are in the wrong way ?

And purchasing a new distributor have crossed my mind, so I get everything new and fresh.

By te way, i noticed one to the teeths on the "star wheel" was bent too, I suspect it should not be that way, not sure if it matters much but I can bend it back if it should be straight.

So that connector onn the filter pic is the connector to the filter ? .. That was one of the connectors I cleaned a long time ago without knowing what it was because it had a lot of oxide in it.. but I can disconnect it and just lose the tach ?
Repulsiv JUL 08, 10:29 AM
Well, I can answear that myself, if you swap the coil wires... the engine behaves just like I described..

I opened the distributor, removed the ignition unit, swapped the cables, put everything back and tried to start the engine.

Had to crank it for abiut 10 seconds but then it started, misfired for a second or so and then ran just fine.

The first times I reved it it also missfired a little, but when it got warm it ran just fine!

Thank you Rexgirl

Now its just two problems, the idle is very high, about 1500-1800 with cold engine, and about 1000-1200 with hot engine, not sure what its supoposed to be, 800 ? ..HOWEVER, this is due to the instrumeuments, and I heard this is not very exact.. I somwhere I should have a "motometer" that can measure rpm, just have to find it, and pray that it work on 6cyl engines

I suspected a vaccuum leak, so I did the old trick spraying start gas on all suspect place, and got it to rev up on ONE place, I'll post a pic or it later, because its a connection that someone already repaired, and I have no idea what its called, I need a new one..

The other problem is that is not very easy to start, I have to crank it forever before it igniotes and starts.. no idea why.

Another thing is that I noticed that it came no air from the "cooling pipes" aimed at the ignition coil and the alternator, so I removed all the fabric covering it in the luggage comapartment, and tried to run the fan directly on 12V, it worked. then I just cleaned the fuse and the connector, and the connector to the relay, and after that it works, yay!

BUT, I noticed the big cooling fam on the radiator does not work at all.. again.. someone told me how to check it before, but then it suddenly worked.. but I will take a look at it now.
Repulsiv JUL 08, 06:03 PM
Here is the leaking part..



What is it called ? ..this one is obviously fixed with what we call "vulktape" in swedish..

And just to be clear on my cooling fan problem, it does not start when I start the AC either.
tshark JUL 08, 06:33 PM
What is that thing that looks like a hole on the intake snorkle, by the spark plug wire?
tshark JUL 08, 06:37 PM
I think that line goes to the evap cannister.
Repulsiv JUL 08, 07:31 PM
tshark: You mean this one ?



I have NO idea, it sure look like a hole ? but might be dirt or soemthing ? ..I better go and look tomorrow, I sure didnt see anything when I was there..
tshark JUL 08, 07:58 PM
Yes. Whatever that is.
Patrick JUL 09, 12:02 AM

quote
Originally posted by tshark:

What is that thing that looks like a hole on the intake snorkle, by the spark plug wire?



Is there a 2.8 upper intake manifold that doesn't have that?

Every couple of months, somebody asks about it here. It has something to do with one of the holes used for the TB mounting bolts. What you see there does not go through into the intake manifold.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-09-2018).]

Repulsiv JUL 09, 02:04 AM
Correct, I checked it this morning and it is a pit, not a hole, must be from the casting.

Funny I didn't notice it before, anyway its not a problem


About the EGR, is it used for anything except emission control ? (it sometimes is, but usally not) , the reason that I ask is.. can I just plug the pipes ? ..since the car is so old there is no problem doing so legally.
Rexgirl JUL 09, 04:07 AM
Wow...so many questions.
Okay first, if your radiator fan does not come on even with the dashboard AC selector turned on, then your fan motor or the wiring to it has probably failed.
Next, your idle RPM's are very close to typical, and I wonder if your tach is reading completely accurately. Mine reads an unwavering 1050 at idle and I seem to have no vacuum leaks (famous last words..).
The new Cardone replacement distributors: The members here have reported they sometimes come with little to no electronic heat transfer grease/paste under their ignition module and consequently those ICM's do not always last for long . You can add more grease of course, but it's said that removing the ignition module will void the warranty (not a problem if you don't wish a replacement).
Others here talked of the pick-up coil wires having polarity, so I just passed that on..sorry if that isn't true.
If you wish, you can temporarily run a hose from your vulktaped manifold tap directly to your black plastic vapor (EVAC) recovery tank (between the driver's side strut mount and air filter). It's the smallest tube.
Also, if you are spraying for leaks, there are four nylon vacuum tubes that are a bit hidden. Two are directly under the throttle body and one is behind them at the back (the cold start injector air line), and one near the EGR tube's plenum connection.

Yes, the tach filter and connector are both shown in the pic I posted.

And finally, the EGR tube: some say if it's blocked off the engine runs a little rich and some say lean. I vote for rich. But still, if your EGR valve and solenoid work properly and the tube isn't cracked, I would keep it operational. My opinion only.