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| Rescuing my dads old Fiero GT 1987 (Page 13/23) |
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Rexgirl
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JUN 05, 04:14 PM
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With Brexit in the works this may not be very useful, but there is a UK supplier of Fiero parts that claims 3 day delivery to British customers anyway, and their hose prices seem reasonable: shopeddies at https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/shopeddies. They list Centric hoses, and while those are typically good quality, one of my new Centric front hoses would not seal even with multiple new GM copper washers. Stuff happens.. And I chose loosening your banjo bolt just in case the bleed screw might be sealed by hidden rust or debris (you never know). best wishes!
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Repulsiv
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JUN 06, 07:21 AM
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Well, some time before brexit is finished and UK actually is out of EU, but strangely enough it says " Item location: United States, United States " on the fieroparts at shopeddies.
But I tried to search on ebay.co.uk and choosed "weithin european union", and found stuff that I did NOT find on ebay.com, which is pretty strange..
For example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/...84-1987/400835404757
..But I think I prefere to get AC delco rubber hoses from US instead then.
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Iain
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JUN 06, 12:28 PM
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Not sure how different '88 hose are, but I'm about to remove a set this weekend that have been on the car four years and done maybe 50 miles. They're no use to me as I'm changing brakes and going for stainless lines, eventually. If they are any use, you can have them for the cost of postage, I would only be throwing them away.
Iain
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Repulsiv
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JUN 07, 12:20 PM
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That was very kind of you, but after looking it up it seem like the 88-hoses are very different, actually in both ends
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Repulsiv
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JUN 08, 02:54 PM
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Today was another Fiero-day ..or not all day, had to take care of the kids most of the day, but in the end of the day i could start top remove the wheels and disassemble the front brakes.
First I tried to remove the banjos, and pus back the pistons.. no no, stuck.. I had to remove everything.
Started with the left one, and removed the caliper, then I had to put it back again to be able to push out the piston ..with the piston out and the caliper on the workbench I could see that the dust boot was seriously broken, I also noticed that it was this phenolic(?) pistons in the caliper, and that it got stuck hard if I pushed it in.
First I thought the problem was that it was oxide in the groove for the seal, so I cleaned that, then it worked a bit, but then got stuck again.
I had to sand out oxide from the pot, and clean the pistons with fine sandpaper before it finally moved easy.
When it did I cleaned everything, remounted the old seal, the piston, the broken dustboot and mounted the caliper on the car again, filled the brakefluid and called for my girl so she could help me with the air-bleeding and everything seemed to work, it stopped the wheel, and then was loose again, just as it should be.
Then I did the same procedure on the other wheel, it was the same, oxide both in the groove and the pot, but here the bleeding nipple was round, so i had to remove it with force, and then I didnt have a new one, this size (M10x1.5) seem to be very uncommon so none of the shops near me had any home.. what to do.. I used a file and made it one size smaller ..got some help with the air bleeding again, and everything worked, now I put the wheel back and the car back on the ground, moved the 9-5 Aero that was in the way and took it for a test drive.
It worked fine, the brakes is not on anymore, the brakes is not very effective by todays standards but it is a car from 1987 and I readed that they wherent that impressive as new either, so I guess it is like it should be.
Now I have to go back to bilprovningen and do a check again, if I do it within 1 month they just check what failed the last time, and both the light and the brakes should be ok now.
..Yes.. the test drive..
This ewas the first time I drove the car "for fun", so I took it to a curvy road to see how it was, well, im not 100% friend with it yet but it sure is a sport car, it handles pretty well and the power is ok (but I wonder how it will be with better gasonline, the gas in the tank is over 10 years old..), its a bit hard to shift fast, but I guess that is because the problem with the selector wire. Also sometimes when shifting down it make a exhaust boom, just like my motorcycle.. not very common on fuel injected engines.. should I worry ? ..I also have problems when shifting from 5 to 4, if I am unlucky I get this bad sound because I hit R by accident.. Its not that I am not used to manual cars, nearly all of my cars been manual and most have had the same layout on the gears, its just that if I drive on 5th gear on one of my celicas and pull the lever to me it aleways go directly to 4, if i want R I have to push the lever to the right. ..I dunno if it is because of the selector wire, or if it is by design.
But, I'm pretty sure I would be quicker around most tracks if i was driving my Celica GT, not to mention the GT-Four.. but I think the 9-5 Aero would be slower, even if it have 250hp and the sport chassi/brakes/seats.. even if you make a standard car sportier (i.e Aero) its still built as a big heavy car made for transporting families.[This message has been edited by Repulsiv (edited 06-08-2018).]
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Repulsiv
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JUN 08, 02:57 PM
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Yes, forgot..
Normally I would never reuse the broken dustboots or even the seal in the calipers, I willr eplace those, but it will take some time to get everything home, and I wanted to see that everything worked.
I will replace the seal/dustboot and the bleeding nipples.. probabably the brakepads too, I just got a feeling that it will be better if I replace those..
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Rexgirl
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JUN 08, 06:29 PM
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Fiero brakes are very unhappy when sitting for a long time, especially with older brake fluid that has absorbed water from the air. So glad they work better now! When working properly, Fiero brakes can stop powerfully enough to lock up 205/15 front tires.
Yes, the Getrag reverse gate is placed right behind the fifth gear gate. While there is a spring that will push the gearshift lever towards the 3/4 gate, it's not very strong. Changing your gearbox oil to syncromesh might help with shifting, and don't be surprised if your clutch slave cylinder fails fairly soon.
After your car passes it's inspection, iff'n it was me I'd service all four calipers, and read the posts here on the Getrag's clutch hydraulics. And yes, it's wise to replace the bad caliper parts.
Fiero's are an absolute hoot to drive, aren't they?
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Repulsiv
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JUN 21, 10:42 AM
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Now I have put it thru another inspection, and it passed! finally roadleagal ! ..it was over 10 years ago last time.
HOWEVER.. when I ewas going to drive it home it did not start, or well, the starter did not work, when I tried to start I heard a click and i saw that something draw power on the meter, but the engine didn't rotate at all.
I tried many times, never worked.. I tried to hit on the starter if the brushes was stuck, no.. finally I got help push-starting the car and it started and I could drive home.
When I got home I turned off and tried to start again, to my surprise the starter motor worked this time, but the car did not start, I released the key and tried again.. same.. then I tried a third time and I was back at the same problem as before, no rotation of the engine..
What the..
Anyone know what it can be ? or is just the starter motor toast ?
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Repulsiv
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JUN 21, 03:45 PM
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Starter motors seem to be unobtainable as used parts (from wrecked cars) in sweden, and a new fiero starter is rpetty expensive here too.. it seem like the cheapest alternative (if I have to buy a new) is to order from rockauto, pay the core too and then importcharges and tax, so it will end up at around SEK1000 (around US$130 now I think), not very expensive but ofcourse I would prefere to fix the one I have.
Is it easy to remove from the V6 ? ..I guess I remove it from under the car ?
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Rexgirl
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JUN 21, 08:35 PM
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Older starter design is pretty universal and simple, so if you know how to service them or know someone who does, yours could be repaired. If your large battery cable connections have no oxide, then my guess is the most likely problems could be, as you thought, sticking brushes or the solenoid switch contacts. Repairing is mostly cleaning/lubricating, and brushes. Wish Fiero parts availability was easier for you but brush substitution may be possible. Do you think the starter gear is not sticking? Maybe just putting grease/oil onto the starter's gear shaft would help? After 10 years some parts could stick sometimes, of course. Sorry you are still having problems.
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