Life with TDI swap # 1 (Page 10/11)
CoolBlue87GT FEB 10, 12:04 PM
I've had a few problems this past month.

1. Noticed while cruising on flat road the tach was jumping 200 rpm every few seconds, thought the cruise control might be the problem, switch it off, found the same issue. Hooked the vag-com cable to laptop, did some diagnostics, turns out the torque converter was locking and unlocking creating the surging tach.

The problem wasn't bad enough to throw a code, but I knew that if I let it go, that I'd have bigger problems down the road.

Took the car to the local shop that knows the car well, they've seen this problem with other VW's, they recomened sending the valve body out to be rebuilt and tested. They said instead of throwing various parts at the problem, that it would be faster and cheaper to have the rebuild. I touched base with bmwguru, he agreed this was the best direction.

Example of valve body: https://d3inagkmqs1m6q.clou...le-01m-325-283-a.jpg

When I got the car back, the problem was gone, the trans worked like new. They replaced the ribbon cable when reinstalling the valve body.

2. A few days later, the steering felt a little stiff and when turning the wheel, it would creak pretty loudly. Took the car to a front end shop, they also know my car. After looking at it, they said the ball joints were shot. - Found that odd, as bmwguru installed Rodney Dickman 88 front 1" lowering ball joints in 2011. I called both bmwguru and Rodney, they both were surprised that they failed so soon.

I reordered replacement upper & lower Rodney Dickman 88 front 1" lowering ball joints, will have them installed soon. I may send the old ones to Rodney so he can see what failed. The car was scheduled to have these replaced the next day....

3. The next day, I was off work, when I started the car, there was a really bad vibration, and the computer threw 7 codes, all pointing to the transmission. I could feel the car was in limp mode. I took the car to the 1st shop that did the tranny work. The guy looked under the hood, could tell the engine was sitting different, the left side motor mount had moved.

When he replaced the valve body, he did loosen that mount. He knew they caused the new problem, told me he'd take care of the repair at no cost.

Turns out when the mount shifted, the wiring harness became unplugged from the transmission, with the mount in the correct position, and the cable reattached, the transmission is okay once again.

Still need to reschedule the ball joint replacement

[This message has been edited by CoolBlue87GT (edited 02-10-2018).]

CoolBlue87GT FEB 11, 11:01 AM
Added some decals.





Found some TDI badges on line, got three sets for 5 bucks.

[This message has been edited by CoolBlue87GT (edited 01-26-2019).]

V8Steve FEB 15, 10:10 PM
It all sounds good and congrats on the experience. Hope you don't let VW "Fix" it because you'll have to fix the fix.

We have a TDI and love it. What's not to love about 300 ft-lb of torque and 50 mpg?
CoolBlue87GT FEB 16, 11:37 AM

quote
Originally posted by V8Steve:

It all sounds good and congrats on the experience. Hope you don't let VW "Fix" it because you'll have to fix the fix.

We have a TDI and love it. What's not to love about 300 ft-lb of torque and 50 mpg?



I would never think about going to a VW dealer, don't trust them. I found a local shop that specialties in foreign cars, they like the car and think the swap was a neat idea. They are a fairly large shop now, but never lost sight of taking care of customers like a small shop would do.

As I posted earlier, I've had a few VW diesels in the past, a 78 Rabbit 2 dr, 5 speed and an 85 Jetta diesel 2 dr, 5 speed. Both got 50+ mpg I loved those cars, I commuted daily 120 miles, they saved me so much in fuel cost. They needed very little work, a timing belt every 100k miles. I put over 250k miles on both of them. I bought the Jetta used, drove it for six years, then sold it for more than I bought it.



Edit : Had the new ball joints replaced, they installed them as directed by tack welding the bottom ball joints. The car rides fine now, no more creaking when turning.

Noticed a small antifreeze leak while on the lift, turned to be the hose that goes to the front overflow bottle, replaced bottle and hose.

[This message has been edited by CoolBlue87GT (edited 03-04-2018).]

CoolBlue87GT AUG 24, 02:01 AM
Well, here we go again, had another turbo failure. The shaft that connects the hot side to the intake side broke. Was on the hwy when the car started smoking really bad. Was told later this was due the raw diesel going into the exhaust. When I pulled over on a side street, I shut the engine down, the smoke kept coming out the exhaust pipes for about 5 minute's. Had to have the car towed to the repair shop. The manufacturer had a one year 10,000 mile warranty, so it was not covered.



Here's the new one, the manufacturer came down a bit on the replacement cost.



I now have towing added on my insurance for just $5 extra.
CoolBlue87GT JAN 20, 04:52 PM
It's been a little over a year since I used the paint sealant, it lasted a lot longer than regular wax. I reapplied it today, it came out pretty good.

I've been able to take a "10 foot paint job" and delayed sending it to the paint shop for over 5 years now.



The car has been running good.
Dennis LaGrua JAN 26, 10:47 AM
This is an extremely interesting thread and 55 hwy MPG is extremely impressive economy. The best that we've seen so far is about 40 mpg on the Dukes w 5 speed but 50+ is on a different level. I find it strange that the automakers had to go with an expensive hybrid setup to get close to your mileage figure but a local outfit gets it done. Makes you wonder if the system really wants to build fuel efficient cars. THats a really good daily driver that you own.

------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

CoolBlue87GT FEB 13, 04:18 PM
Needed to replace another coolant overflow bottle again, it developed a small pinhole leak. I think sun exposure - UV light, might be the cause, making the plastic brittle. You almost never see this happen to one that is hidden under a hood.



Trying to think of a way to protect the new one, maybe painting it, or covering it somehow. Anyone have any good idea's ?

[This message has been edited by CoolBlue87GT (edited 02-13-2019).]

modemeagle FEB 13, 05:04 PM
You can give this a try.

303 (30306) Marine Aerospace Protectant
https://www.amazon.com/303-...niture/dp/B000XBCURW


Let me know if you want to try it. I am probably moving to Port Charlotte or North Port in a few weeks and can let you try it before buying it. I now use it on all of my exposed plastic and rubber on my cars.
CoolBlue87GT NOV 16, 01:49 PM
Had to replace a few things.

Alternator again, last one lasted 6 years, replaced it December 2013.

Radiator, the old one devolped a small leak near the bottom. Bought new one from The Fiero Store.
Went in like a breeze.



Both repairs were done at the same time, and have the car running great again.

[This message has been edited by CoolBlue87GT (edited 11-21-2019).]