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How To - adjust decklid torque rod tension by fierosound
Started on: 07-14-2015 11:00 AM
Replies: 28 (1197 views)
Last post by: jim94 on 02-01-2017 12:11 AM
fierosound
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Report this Post07-14-2015 11:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Lots of people switch to a gas strut to compensate for the weight of adding a Wing on a decklid.
I'm not sure why they don't simply adjust the tension of the torque rods - maybe they don't know it's possible.

Here's how... can be done in 10 minutes and you don't need to unbolt anything.
(thanks to buddycraig who's pics I borrowed)

The torque rods attach with a bolt to the decklid and slip under the opposite side decklid hinge.




There will be a pin in the bottom area of each decklid hinge along with 2 other holes as illustrated.




Moving that pin 1 hole back toward the trunk will increase tension.

By using a tie-strap around the lower U-end of the torque rod, it can be pulled back allowing the pin to be moved.
Be sure NOT to pull down as you pull back because the rod could drop out of place. It's a pain to put back.
More: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...040223-2-043677.html

Here, it's been moved from the middle hole to the rear hole. The same can be done on the other side if needed.
Moving the pin forward will decrease tension - for those who have removed the wing making the decklid lighter.


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[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-05-2018).]

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Chelo Fiero
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Report this Post07-14-2015 01:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Chelo FieroClick Here to visit Chelo Fiero's HomePageClick Here to Email Chelo FieroSend a Private Message to Chelo FieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Actually there's two types of torque rods, for spoiler decklids the rods are heavier thicker.

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edfiero
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Report this Post07-14-2015 01:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for edfieroClick Here to Email edfieroSend a Private Message to edfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Can't wait to get home tonight and try this. #$^%$ Deck lid has been knocking me in the head for years, all because I didn't know about this
THANKS for the info.

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Patrick
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Report this Post07-14-2015 04:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Chelo Fiero:

Actually there's two types of torque rods, for spoiler decklids the rods are heavier thicker.


I believe there are actually three types... and they're color coded with a dab of paint.

[EDIT] Good info in This thread.

 
quote
Originally posted by A_Pegasi:

The Torque Rods come in different strengths and a spot of color on each rod identifies the deck lid configuration they were designed to support. If the paint is worn, faded or missing, you can also tell by the RPO code what torque rod should have been on the car.

Red = plain
White = Spoiler (RPO code D80)
Blue = Luggage carrier (RPO code V56)

There is also the adjustment holes to 'fine tune' them. The torque rod retaining pin seems to come from the factory in the center of the 3 available holes. The Shop Manual says "To increase tension on torque rod, move the pin rearward one hole." But, be VERY CAREFUL! There's a lot of tension there.

If you do a search of PFF, there are many threads on this topic.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-14-2015).]

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fierosound
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Report this Post07-14-2015 04:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

I believe there are actually three types... and they're color coded with a dab of paint.


It's still worth trying the adjustment first.

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Patrick
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Report this Post07-14-2015 04:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by fierosound:

It's still worth trying the adjustment first.


Absolutely! From that link I added...

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

There are different springs. There are adjustments which can be made.

The simplest thing to do is to adjust the ones you have and see if the tension is enough.

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Ponnari
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Report this Post07-14-2015 08:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PonnariSend a Private Message to PonnariEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Something I've always wondered about with these, since all the Fiero's I've had have acted different.

When you use the electric trunk popper or just the key, how far should the deck lid come up? barley, a few inches, or open all the way?

Thanks!

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Chelo Fiero
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Report this Post07-14-2015 08:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Chelo FieroClick Here to visit Chelo Fiero's HomePageClick Here to Email Chelo FieroSend a Private Message to Chelo FieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Yes, three types. Forgot the luggage one. But yes it is easy to adjust the rods for the desired tension if you add or remove a spoiler.

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fierosound
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Report this Post07-15-2015 12:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Ponnari:

When you use the electric trunk popper or just the key, how far should the deck lid come up? barley, a few inches, or open all the way?



Just unlocks and pops up to clear latch (as my car did when new) and should stay up once you manually put the decklid up.

It's only when something is changed - wing added or removed, or torque rods weakened or replaced etc. - that it needs adjustment to find the right setting.
I sure as hell don't want it flying open as some guys get when they remove the wing, or hitting me in the head when a slight breeze "breathes" on it.

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Report this Post07-15-2015 12:43 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PonnariSend a Private Message to PonnariEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thanks fierosound, that's what I kind of figured

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edfiero
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Report this Post07-16-2015 07:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for edfieroClick Here to Email edfieroSend a Private Message to edfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Well, a seeming easy repair has turned into a nightmare.
I looked at my car last night and found out that my adjustment pin was in the most forward hole. Perfect. I thought. I can move it rearward and increase the tension on the decklid and solve the problem I've had for at least 20 years.

I used my ratching strap just as describe to pull out the rod and then pulled the pin. However when I put the pin in the new slot the pin apparently did not engage the rod, and/or the rod slipped off my hook as I was releasing the tension on my strap. So now the the 'U' in the torsion rod is sitting too low and will not engage the pin even if I try to get it back in the original hole. I can't find anything to pry against, so I have no way to raise it. I've made the problem worse than when I started.

Anyone have suggestions on how I can the rod to re-enage with the pin? I am guessing I have to take the rod loose on the other side now at the hinge to release the tension on it ????

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edfiero
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Report this Post07-16-2015 07:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for edfieroClick Here to Email edfieroSend a Private Message to edfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

No dice. Even after disconnecting the other side of the torsion rod from the deck lid, I still can't get it to hook on the pin when I pull it back. The whole "U" part of the rod is too low and too far toward the center of the car. I've tried prying on it but it won't move enough, plus hard to get leverage without tearing something else up. Ideas?

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Patrick
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Report this Post07-16-2015 09:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Well, I don't quite understand what the problem is. When the pins are removed, that releases enough tension to actually take the torsion rods out of there (if desired). Take the second pin out and see if that helps.

Post a picture of what you're dealing with.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-16-2015).]

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Jason88Notchie
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Report this Post07-16-2015 09:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jason88NotchieClick Here to Email Jason88NotchieSend a Private Message to Jason88NotchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by edfiero:

No dice. Even after disconnecting the other side of the torsion rod from the deck lid, I still can't get it to hook on the pin when I pull it back. The whole "U" part of the rod is too low and too far toward the center of the car. I've tried prying on it but it won't move enough, plus hard to get leverage wit else up. Ideas?


Can you remove the deck lid from the hinge? If so, set something against the glass so the hinges don't pop against the glass. With the deck lid removed, and the tension off you should be able to make your adjustment.

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Patrick
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Report this Post07-16-2015 09:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Jason88Notchie:

With the deck lid removed, and the tension off you should be able to make your adjustment.


Jason, what advantage is there to taking the decklid off? The hinges will only go so far with the safety straps intact. As long as the decklid is in a vertical position (which takes tension off the torsion rods), removing the decklid accomplishes nothing here IMO.

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Jason88Notchie
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Report this Post07-16-2015 09:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jason88NotchieClick Here to Email Jason88NotchieSend a Private Message to Jason88NotchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Jason, what advantage is there to taking the decklid off? The hinges will only go so far with the safety straps intact. As long as the decklid is in a vertical position (which takes tension off the torsion rods), removing the decklid accomplishes nothing here IMO.


With the deck lid off, would that provide more leverage and less tension? I think the torsion bar is bolted in the center of the hinge, and can be removed independently from the hinge and safety strap.

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Jason88Notchie
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Report this Post07-16-2015 11:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jason88NotchieClick Here to Email Jason88NotchieSend a Private Message to Jason88NotchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Can you take some pics of how things are situated?

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edfiero
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Report this Post07-17-2015 06:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for edfieroClick Here to Email edfieroSend a Private Message to edfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post



Here is a picture of the problem. Notice how the 'U' part of the torsion bar is about an inch away from from the bracket. Before I started fooling with this, the path was along that of the white arrow, almost touching the bracket.

When I pull the bar outward with the ropes, the condition gets worse. What you can't see because its inside that area that I'm calling the bracket, is that part of the 'U' which is suppose to engage the pin does not because it is sitting below where it would hook on the pin. So I can put the pin in the hole but because its not touching the bar, I can pull it back out with my fingers after releasing the ropes and of course the bar provides no support to the lid.

Hopefully this is clear.
I understand I may need to remove the deck lid, but am just looking for confirmation that is going to get me to where I need to be.

[This message has been edited by edfiero (edited 07-17-2015).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post07-17-2015 06:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by edfiero:

When I pull the bar outward with the ropes, the condition gets worse.


I've been able to release the tension and move the pins using nothing but a piece of rope and a three foot length of 2x4, so I don't know what exactly is going on there. I suspect the one torsion bar has come out of position and needs to be put back, probably by pulling the end of the rod away from the firewall and up. I'll have a look at one of my Fieros today to refresh my memory how this all works.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-17-2015).]

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Jason88Notchie
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Report this Post07-17-2015 10:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jason88NotchieClick Here to Email Jason88NotchieSend a Private Message to Jason88NotchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Remove the upper and lower bolts to remove the deck lid. Place something against the glass so if the bar springs it wont break the glass. Remove the center torx bolt. You will need a special socket for that. That should free up all tension and make adjustment very easy.

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Patrick
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Report this Post07-18-2015 01:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by edfiero:

I understand I may need to remove the deck lid, but am just looking for confirmation that is going to get me to where I need to be.


I'm of the opinion that you don't need to remove the decklid (or unbolt the other end of the torsion rod) to get things back in place. Jason and I seem to be in disagreement.

In the image below, the red arrow indicates where the out of place torsion rod needs to go. It should be located behind the other rod, parallel to it. I believe there's actually a "nub" on the bracket that the rod sort of clips behind.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-18-2015).]

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edfiero
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Report this Post07-18-2015 07:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for edfieroClick Here to Email edfieroSend a Private Message to edfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Patrick....I agree with WHERE the rod needs to go. My problem is how to get it there. I've try prying against it, but wont stay. As much as I dont want to, I think the solution is going to be removing the lid to release all the tension on the rod.

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Chelo Fiero
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Report this Post07-18-2015 10:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Chelo FieroClick Here to visit Chelo Fiero's HomePageClick Here to Email Chelo FieroSend a Private Message to Chelo FieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by edfiero:

Patrick....I agree with WHERE the rod needs to go. My problem is how to get it there. I've try prying against it, but wont stay. As much as I dont want to, I think the solution is going to be removing the lid to release all the tension on the rod.


You need to pull it out and pry it up at the same time and it will accommodate up in place, ....

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edfiero
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Report this Post07-18-2015 04:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for edfieroClick Here to Email edfieroSend a Private Message to edfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Problem resolved after removing the lid and the hinge. That let the tension off the rod and allowed me to move it back into place.

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Report this Post07-18-2015 04:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Jason88NotchieClick Here to Email Jason88NotchieSend a Private Message to Jason88NotchieEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by edfiero:

Problem resolved after removing the lid and the hinge. That let the tension off the rod and allowed me to move it back into place.


Good. Sometimes the easiest jobs can turn into a royal PITA.

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Patrick
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Report this Post07-18-2015 07:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by edfiero:

Problem resolved after removing the lid and the hinge. That let the tension off the rod and allowed me to move it back into place.


The decklid and hinge didn't need to be removed for the torsion rod to come out of place. Anyway, you got it back in.

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fierosound
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Report this Post07-20-2015 10:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierosoundClick Here to visit fierosound's HomePageClick Here to Email fierosoundSend a Private Message to fierosoundEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

 
quote
Originally posted by edfiero:

Problem resolved after removing the lid and the hinge. That let the tension off the rod and allowed me to move it back into place.


... and now you have the tension adjusted so the decklid doesn't bang you in the head?

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Report this Post07-01-2016 01:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for LorenBatemanClick Here to Email LorenBatemanSend a Private Message to LorenBatemanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

anybody know where i can buy new hinge bolts, the T50 ones with the sholder

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Report this Post02-01-2017 12:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jim94Click Here to Email jim94Send a Private Message to jim94Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thanks for the instructions, pumps off and deck lid now has the correct tension on it to hold it up. Strong rods I must say.i reinstalled my useless chrome strut tower bar back on . I like chrome.

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