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Split the Case on a Getrag 5-Speed, With Photos by Blacktree
Started on: 06-16-2010 10:20 PM
Replies: 27 (4744 views)
Last post by: Blacktree on 07-04-2016 11:28 AM
Blacktree
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Report this Post06-16-2010 10:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Rodney Dickman has instructions on how to "split the case" on the Getrag 5-Speed transmission. You can find those instructions here:

http://www.rodneydickman.com/n36.html

Unfortunately, there aren't many pictures, just a drawing. So when I split the case on my Getrag to replace a bad seal, I took lots of photos. Now I'll walk you through the procedure, using the photos as visual aids.

First of all, you need to drain the oil from the transmission. Drain the oil BEFORE removing the axles from the transmission. Otherwise, your transmission will puke oil all over the place.

The drain plug is pretty easy to find. It's on the bottom of the transmission, near the rear tranny mount (15mm socket). Looking up from the bottom, you will see this.



The next step would be to remove the axles, detach the transmission from the mounts, and separate it from the engine. I'm going to assume you know how to do this, or can follow the instructions in the service manual.

After getting the transmission out of the car, you're ready to start disassembling it. Unfortunately, it isn't as easy as removing the case bolts and prying the case apart. There's something called the "detent assembly" that will prevent the transmission from coming apart. So that detent assembly needs to be removed.

If you look inside the bellhousing, you'll see a round black piece near the input shaft, that resembles a hockey puck. It's called the "detent cover". You need to pry that out. There are a few different ways to do that. One is to punch a screwdriver through the center, then stick an Allen wrench in the hole and use it to pull the cover off. Another is to wedge a small screwdriver into the seam around the edge of the cover, and pry it out that way. I opted for the second method, since it doesn't leave any holes in the cover.



After you get the cover off, you'll see this. That is the detent assembly. And it needs to come out.



To get it out, you remove the two bolts (10mm socket). That funky looking metal plate (the detent plate) is under tension. When you remove the two bolts, some of that tension will be released. That's normal.

You'll notice that there are 4 little metal balls (held in place by springs) under the detent plate.



Now that the bolts are out, you can pull out the detent plate. However, the plate, balls, and springs are still under some tension. So when you remove the plate, those springs and balls are probably going to go flying. Just FYI.

After removing the detent plate, springs, and balls, you will see that one of the rods in the transmission has a metal bushing. That bushing needs to come out. It's probably pretty tight. But you can pry it out with a pair of small Allen wrenches.



Congratulations, you've removed the detent assembly! Make sure none of the parts have "walked off". I like to put the parts inside the cover. You should have one plate, one bushing, 2 bolts, 4 springs, and 4 little metal balls. If any of these parts come up missing, you're basically screwed. Seriously. So don't lose anything.



And just for kicks, here's what the transmission looks like with the detent assembly removed.



NOW, you are ready to remove the case bolts and pry the case apart. There are 15 bolts around the perimeter of the transmission (13mm socket). They aren't hard to find. But just in case, here are a couple photos showing you where they are.





Just a side note, one of the case bolts will not come out all the way. I'm referring to the bolt directly under the round black protrusion (the shift shaft cover). It will unscrew from the threads, but doesn't have enough room to come completely out. That won't be a problem. The bolt will just "float" in there while you have the transmission apart.

There are 3 places on the transmission case where you can pry it apart. DO NOT try to wedge a screwdriver or pry bar into the seam. That's a great way to damage the mating surfaces on the case halves, which can cause the transmission case to leak oil. However, you can insert wood or plastic shims between the case halves to prevent them from closing back together while you're prying on them.

The photos below show the 3 places where you can pry on the case halves. You can see the metal tabs sticking out.







Eventually, you'll be greeted with this.



Congratulations! You just opened up your Getrag. But eventually, you'll want to put it back together again. Re-assembly is pretty much the reverse order from disassembly. However, there are a few things to note.

First of all, it would be wise to seal the case halves with RTV silicone. If you don't, there's a good possibility that oil could seep out through the seam. Clean the mating surfaces with acetone or lacquer thinner before applying the sealant. BTW, the torque spec on the case bolts is 15 ft-lb.

Second of all, the transmission MUST be in Neutral when you re-assemble the detent assembly. Otherwise, the transmission will lock up internally, and will not function properly. Rodney's instructions cover this, but I'll go over it again.

Those rods that poke out through the holes in the detent plate must be put in a certain arrangement. Sit the detent plate in position, so you can use it to help position the rods. The rod furthest to the left (assuming the transmission is right-side up) needs to be recessed about 1/4" below the surface of the detent plate. The other 3 rods should be flush with the surface of the detent plate.



Installing the springs and the little metal balls can be tricky. I prefer to load the springs into the detent plate, drop the plate in place, and then depress the springs with a small screwdriver so the balls can drop into place. Each ball needs to be centered on its spring.



After you accomplish that, you will need to press down on the detent plate, so you can install the two mounting bolts. I just pry on it with a big screwdriver. The torque spec on those two bolts is 84 inch-lb.



After you finish with that, it's time to re-install the detent cover. Spread some sealant around the outer edge, and push it into place. You should be able to get it most of the way by hand. Some careful tapping with a rubber mallet will finish the job. Also, if you drilled or punched a hole in the cover in order to remove it, you will need to plug that hole.

Now your Getrag is back in one piece. And you can re-install it in the car.



Don't forget to re-install the drain plug. And don't forget to refill the transmission oil... AFTER you plug the axles back in.

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Robert 2
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Report this Post06-16-2010 10:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Robert 2Send a Private Message to Robert 2Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Very nice write up
At this point are we able to change the speedo gear inside the tranny ?
I have to do this for my FWD tranny .

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Blacktree
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Report this Post06-16-2010 11:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Yes, after you split the case, the differential housing (which holds the speedo gear) will be sitting loose. You can literally just grab it and pick it up.

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Robert 2
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Report this Post06-16-2010 11:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Robert 2Send a Private Message to Robert 2Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Thank you . Been looking at that for awhile , but was afraid to do it .
My tranny is out of the car just bolted on the back of an SBC liying in the corner of my garage .
The tranny i have is a reman never been used since then . Got the gear from Rodney Dickman .

[This message has been edited by Robert 2 (edited 07-12-2012).]

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Report this Post06-17-2010 01:50 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fast40driverClick Here to Email fast40driverSend a Private Message to fast40driverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Nice writeup. I would add one thing: The metal plate (detent block) also has two short metal rods with rounded ends installed in the "ears" separating the shift rods. The center shift rail is drilled through the center notch, and has a short pin though it. This assembly (together with the sliding plate inside the case) is the interlock assembly, that prevents you from engaging more than one gear at a time. They usually stay in place, but can fall out. If they do, just slip them back in and hold them with a little grease.

One other thing I have seen - if the detent assembly just WILL NOT pry back into alignment, take it back out. Chances are you have bent one end of one of the springs a little, and it is overlapping the hole, and not letting the ball slide up into the hole. Turn it over, put the buggered end up into the hole, and re-assemble more carefully. Been there, done that.

Mike

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Blacktree
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Report this Post06-17-2010 02:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Good info. Thanks for posting it.

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Report this Post08-20-2010 07:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ProjectPbClick Here to visit ProjectPb's HomePageClick Here to Email ProjectPbSend a Private Message to ProjectPbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I second this how are is it to remove the speedo gear i am doing the 94 swap how hard is it to remove the metal sprocket thing the VSS reads on the 94 and how hard is it to remove the plastic gear from the fiero 5 speed


 
quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:

Yes, after you split the case, the differential housing (which holds the speedo gear) will be sitting loose. You can literally just grab it and pick it up.

------------------
85 SE 2m4 2.4 L4 5 speed
87 GT 2.8 V6 5 speed Gold and Gray
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ProjectPb for all for paintball needs check this out

[This message has been edited by ProjectPb (edited 08-20-2010).]

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Report this Post08-21-2010 04:00 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BMTFIEROClick Here to Email BMTFIEROSend a Private Message to BMTFIEROEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

THanks adding to favs

+4U

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Report this Post08-21-2010 04:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for proffClick Here to visit proff's HomePageClick Here to Email proffSend a Private Message to proffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

this is gold

 
quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:

Rodney Dickman has instructions on how to "split the case" on the Getrag 5-Speed transmission. You can find those instructions here:

http://www.rodneydickman.com/n36.html

Unfortunately, there aren't many pictures, just a drawing. So when I split the case on my Getrag to replace a bad seal, I took lots of photos. Now I'll walk you through the procedure, using the photos as visual aids.

First of all, you need to drain the oil from the transmission. Drain the oil BEFORE removing the axles from the transmission. Otherwise, your transmission will puke oil all over the place.

The drain plug is pretty easy to find. It's on the bottom of the transmission, near the rear tranny mount (15mm socket). Looking up from the bottom, you will see this.



The next step would be to remove the axles, detach the transmission from the mounts, and separate it from the engine. I'm going to assume you know how to do this, or can follow the instructions in the service manual.

After getting the transmission out of the car, you're ready to start disassembling it. Unfortunately, it isn't as easy as removing the case bolts and prying the case apart. There's something called the "detent assembly" that will prevent the transmission from coming apart. So that detent assembly needs to be removed.

If you look inside the bellhousing, you'll see a round black piece near the input shaft, that resembles a hockey puck. It's called the "detent cover". You need to pry that out. There are a few different ways to do that. One is to punch a screwdriver through the center, then stick an Allen wrench in the hole and use it to pull the cover off. Another is to wedge a small screwdriver into the seam around the edge of the cover, and pry it out that way. I opted for the second method, since it doesn't leave any holes in the cover.



After you get the cover off, you'll see this. That is the detent assembly. And it needs to come out.



To get it out, you remove the two bolts (10mm socket). That funky looking metal plate (the detent plate) is under tension. When you remove the two bolts, some of that tension will be released. That's normal.

You'll notice that there are 4 little metal balls (held in place by springs) under the detent plate.



Now that the bolts are out, you can pull out the detent plate. However, the plate, balls, and springs are still under some tension. So when you remove the plate, those springs and balls are probably going to go flying. Just FYI.

After removing the detent plate, springs, and balls, you will see that one of the rods in the transmission has a metal bushing. That bushing needs to come out. It's probably pretty tight. But you can pry it out with a pair of small Allen wrenches.



Congratulations, you've removed the detent assembly! Make sure none of the parts have "walked off". I like to put the parts inside the cover. You should have one plate, one bushing, 2 bolts, 4 springs, and 4 little metal balls. If any of these parts come up missing, you're basically screwed. Seriously. So don't lose anything.



And just for kicks, here's what the transmission looks like with the detent assembly removed.



NOW, you are ready to remove the case bolts and pry the case apart. There are 15 bolts around the perimeter of the transmission (13mm socket). They aren't hard to find. But just in case, here are a couple photos showing you where they are.





Just a side note, one of the case bolts will not come out all the way. I'm referring to the bolt directly under the round black protrusion (the shift shaft cover). It will unscrew from the threads, but doesn't have enough room to come completely out. That won't be a problem. The bolt will just "float" in there while you have the transmission apart.

There are 3 places on the transmission case where you can pry it apart. DO NOT try to wedge a screwdriver or pry bar into the seam. That's a great way to damage the mating surfaces on the case halves, which can cause the transmission case to leak oil. However, you can insert wood or plastic shims between the case halves to prevent them from closing back together while you're prying on them.

The photos below show the 3 places where you can pry on the case halves. You can see the metal tabs sticking out.







Eventually, you'll be greeted with this.



Congratulations! You just opened up your Getrag. But eventually, you'll want to put it back together again. Re-assembly is pretty much the reverse order from disassembly. However, there are a few things to note.

First of all, it would be wise to seal the case halves with RTV silicone. If you don't, there's a good possibility that oil could seep out through the seam. Clean the mating surfaces with acetone or lacquer thinner before applying the sealant. BTW, the torque spec on the case bolts is 15 ft-lb.

Second of all, the transmission MUST be in Neutral when you re-assemble the detent assembly. Otherwise, the transmission will lock up internally, and will not function properly. Rodney's instructions cover this, but I'll go over it again.

Those rods that poke out through the holes in the detent plate must be put in a certain arrangement. Sit the detent plate in position, so you can use it to help position the rods. The rod furthest to the left (assuming the transmission is right-side up) needs to be recessed about 1/4" below the surface of the detent plate. The other 3 rods should be flush with the surface of the detent plate.



Installing the springs and the little metal balls can be tricky. I prefer to load the springs into the detent plate, drop the plate in place, and then depress the springs with a small screwdriver so the balls can drop into place. Each ball needs to be centered on its spring.



After you accomplish that, you will need to press down on the detent plate, so you can install the two mounting bolts. I just pry on it with a big screwdriver. The torque spec on those two bolts is 84 inch-lb.



After you finish with that, it's time to re-install the detent cover. Spread some sealant around the outer edge, and push it into place. You should be able to get it most of the way by hand. Some careful tapping with a rubber mallet will finish the job. Also, if you drilled or punched a hole in the cover in order to remove it, you will need to plug that hole.

Now your Getrag is back in one piece. And you can re-install it in the car.



Don't forget to re-install the drain plug. And don't forget to refill the transmission oil... AFTER you plug the axles back in.


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americasfuture2k
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Report this Post11-22-2010 11:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for americasfuture2kSend a Private Message to americasfuture2kEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

now to find out what to do with all the guts...

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L67
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Report this Post11-23-2010 01:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for L67Click Here to Email L67Send a Private Message to L67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I used this manual last time I split a case:

http://www.fieronews.net/fu...Muncie%205%20Spd.pdf

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americasfuture2k
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Report this Post11-23-2010 04:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for americasfuture2kSend a Private Message to americasfuture2kEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

i just downloaded that lol. i want to send the guts off to 300 Below. it needs to handle a constantly changing L32.

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Report this Post12-06-2010 07:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for americasfuture2kSend a Private Message to americasfuture2kEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

what is the thread that has the disassembly of a getrag? i wanna saw i saw a link for it to RFC

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L67
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Report this Post12-07-2010 06:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for L67Click Here to Email L67Send a Private Message to L67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Say again.... what's RFC?

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Report this Post12-07-2010 07:38 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BloozberrySend a Private Message to BloozberryEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Great write up, and great pictures! I'll give you a + if I haven't already done so, but I'm pretty sure I already have.

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Report this Post12-07-2010 10:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Alex4mulaClick Here to Email Alex4mulaSend a Private Message to Alex4mulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I have a Getrag with a bad differential sitting in my garage. Now I will feel brave enough to open it and see what went bad. Thanks a lot!

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Report this Post12-07-2010 04:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for americasfuture2kSend a Private Message to americasfuture2kEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

RFT or whatever they are. i dont go there, so i dunno the accurate name.

[This message has been edited by americasfuture2k (edited 12-07-2010).]

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sardonyx247
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Report this Post12-08-2010 06:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for sardonyx247Click Here to visit sardonyx247's HomePageClick Here to Email sardonyx247Send a Private Message to sardonyx247Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

There is a special sealent to use, not RTV, GM Part 1052942, there is an aftermarket part number I just don't have it off the top of my head, to seal the case halves.

------------------
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[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 12-08-2010).]

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L67
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Report this Post12-08-2010 09:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for L67Click Here to Email L67Send a Private Message to L67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Anaerobic sealant.

Real Fiero Tech: There's several threads there that come to mind.

Getrag 282 rebuild

Getrag Failure Analysis


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Report this Post12-08-2010 06:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for americasfuture2kSend a Private Message to americasfuture2kEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

none of those or the links in them are familure to me. mabe im crazy. maybe not. but i swear i saw a more detailed disassembly of the transmission.

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Report this Post12-08-2010 07:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for L67Click Here to Email L67Send a Private Message to L67Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

No it's probably there, I'm not familiar with all the threads there, so those were just suggestions that came to my mind.

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Blacktree
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Report this Post12-08-2010 08:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

You can get the GM service manual for the Getrag 282 from the FieroNews website. It contains all the info you need for a complete tear-down and rebuild.

On this page: http://www.fieronews.net/fu...wnloads.php?cat_id=1

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Report this Post02-09-2013 12:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hdryderClick Here to Email hdryderSend a Private Message to hdryderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I am ready to re-assemble the two Getrag transaxle halves back together.

Can anyone remind me which way the Roller (needle) Bearing, in the center of the front case half, is place in the machined cavity for that bearing?
The two black plastic cage sides are different.

Which side of the bearing is up, and which side of the bearing is set downward inside the bearing cavity?

I am pretty sure the side with the smaller diameter of the black plastic cage goes down in the case, but it's been a little while since I took it apart, and I want to make sure I am right on this.

Thanks for the help.

[This message has been edited by hdryder (edited 02-09-2013).]

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Report this Post05-18-2013 10:17 PM Click Here to See the Profile for masospaghettiClick Here to Email masospaghettiSend a Private Message to masospaghettiEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Bump, I am curious about hdryder's question above as well.

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Report this Post05-27-2013 10:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 71GPHurstSSJSend a Private Message to 71GPHurstSSJEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Per the rebuild manual, the smaller ID of the black cage should be towards the clutch housing (as shown in the pictures after the case is split in the original post).

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Report this Post02-24-2015 02:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for unboundmoClick Here to Email unboundmoSend a Private Message to unboundmoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

The sealant used to hold the detent cover back in? So it doesn't pop off.. What's the best?

Window urethane sealant?

[This message has been edited by unboundmo (edited 02-24-2015).]

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Report this Post03-06-2015 03:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for unboundmoClick Here to Email unboundmoSend a Private Message to unboundmoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

I have to give props to black tree for a very helpfull write up.. Thanks man!

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Blacktree
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Report this Post07-04-2016 11:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Sorry for the late reply, but the detent cover is held in place by friction. The sealant only needs to prevent leaks; it doesn't need to hold the cover in place. So RTV silicone should be fine.

On my Getrag, I used RTV silicone for the case halves and the detent cover. I used black for the case halves. I ran out of the black stuff, so used gray for the detent cover. That was about 6 years ago, and it hasn't leaked a drop. Just FYI.

[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 07-04-2016).]

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