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How to Repair an S10 Digital Cluster! by rbell2915
Started on: 05-13-2020 11:51 PM
Replies: 8 (152 views)
Last post by: RWDPLZ on 05-15-2020 12:50 PM
rbell2915
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Report this Post05-13-2020 11:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rbell2915Click Here to Email rbell2915Send a Private Message to rbell2915Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I picked this up in the junkyard for $20 and I tested it yesterday but it wasn't working. The only thing that would turn on was the odometer.



So I decided to open it up and repair it.



After opening everything up you will see a yellow board with four contacts on one side and seven contacts on the other. Remove that from the large board. This photo shows where the contacts are located on the large board.



This is the reverse of the yellow board.



Carefully resolder every single joint on the board. It's tedious work, so be careful and patient. Make sure everything is clean and you have no bridges. After that, resolder the yellow board back to the larger board and test for function.



Everything works! I decided to replace the small 7/32 bolts with some self tapping Phillips screws. It made reassembling much easier than disassembling.

Here is the finished product.

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82-T/A [At Work]
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Report this Post05-14-2020 10:03 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 82-T/A [At Work]Send a Private Message to 82-T/A [At Work]Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That was in a Chevy S-10??? Damn that thing looks cool.

I've always liked the Chevy S-10 Blazer 2-door... is that what that came from?
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rbell2915
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Report this Post05-14-2020 10:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rbell2915Click Here to Email rbell2915Send a Private Message to rbell2915Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:

That was in a Chevy S-10??? Damn that thing looks cool.

I've always liked the Chevy S-10 Blazer 2-door... is that what that came from?


I actually found this in the S10's sister, the Jimmy. But it should fit the S10, S10 Blazer, Jimmy, and Sonoma. They're all basically the same anyway. Someone actually got this it work in their Fiero. I believe his name was FieroVin. I put this up on eBay last night. Thinking about putting it in The Mall, maybe someone brave will try to attempt it again.

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theogre
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Report this Post05-14-2020 02:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
At lest is less complicated then Cavalier and other electronic dashes so less things to fix.

For this job and related use thin flux core lead/tin solder and 25w (or less) iron. You want to heat fast but not "melt" the glue holding copper to board or cook other parts.
Thin like under 24awg size wire like I have 0.032in. You use more but melts faster then most solder sold at normal retail stores.

Even then May work for now.... but keep a easy way to undo the mod if used in Fiero etc.
Because?
Many car electric parts die from old capacitors and other small items in/on a device on top of crap solder joints.
Electrolytic caps isn't only cap type that have problems from old age even ignoring China "poison" cap problems ate thru the can etc.

Like you can fix "Gen 2" Blue Dingy Thingy by re-flowing a joint or three like shown in cave page Chime Unit but all versions can die from bad caps etc too.

Is part of why many stop selling "radios" using the same Fiero plug.
To make them reliable to give even a small warranty need a lot of work to "Re cap" them etc and see little point or profit doing that.

A big reason is a Car Cabin can easily reach 160 to 200+ °F parked outside even on cool days to bake them.
Example see http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/141784.html near bottom.

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Boondawg
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Report this Post05-14-2020 03:11 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BoondawgClick Here to Email BoondawgSend a Private Message to BoondawgEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by theogre:

At lest is less complicated then Cavalier and other electronic dashes so less things to fix.

For this job and related use thin flux core lead/tin solder and 25w (or less) iron. You want to heat fast but not "melt" the glue holding copper to board or cook other parts.
Thin like under 24awg size wire like I have 0.032in. You use more but melts faster then most solder sold at normal retail stores.

Even then May work for now.... but keep a easy way to undo the mod if used in Fiero etc.
Because?
Many car electric parts die from old capacitors and other small items in/on a device on top of crap solder joints.
Electrolytic caps isn't only cap type that have problems from old age even ignoring China "poison" cap problems ate thru the can etc.

Like you can fix "Gen 2" Blue Dingy Thingy by re-flowing a joint or three like shown in cave page Chime Unit but all versions can die from bad caps etc too.

Is part of why many stop selling "radios" using the same Fiero plug.
To make them reliable to give even a small warranty need a lot of work to "Re cap" them etc and see little point or profit doing that.

A big reason is a Car Cabin can easily reach 160 to 200+ ┬░F parked outside even on cool days to bake them.
Example see http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/141784.html near bottom.



As usual, friendly & informative!
You da' man!
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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post05-14-2020 04:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
X2 on replacing the electrolytic capacitors, especially after seeing the TDK logo on the small board. I've rebuilt TDK power supplies because the electrolytic caps leaked like sieves. Replace what's on there with ones rated for a higher voltage and at least 105 degrees Celsius.

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theogre
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Report this Post05-14-2020 10:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Many Dell and other PCs and more had China "poison cap" problems.
I replace Hundreds of Dell OptiPlex w/ plastic clam-shell case w/ blown caps. (OptiPlex and Latitude are ones of "Business Use" brands mainly sold to enterprise buyers.)

Most times that doesn't apply w/ old car parts etc.
But Old Electro caps can simply die from chemical dry out etc. and May leak or bust the can too.
Other old to very old caps have different problems and some are known to explode like many Tantalum caps use on many things.

Is why many restoring old TV etc replace many old cap types.

Yes, 105°C rated E-caps are needed for many car parts. Better then normal but can still cook over time.
Do Not buy them at Ebay etc.
Go to Digikey, Mouser, or other real electronic parts vendors to avoid counterfeits commonly sold thru Ebay Amazon and worse.
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Mickey_Moose
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Report this Post05-15-2020 10:29 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageClick Here to Email Mickey_MooseSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If the electronics is older than 10- 15 years, the electrolytic caps should be changed. Generally when there is a problem this is why.

The electrolyte inside the caps eventually dries up and causes the cap to change value (or not work) which in turn stresses all the other electronic components due to unfiltered AC.

I used to repair digital dashes and this as well as cold solder joints (as OP mentioned) are the main problems. I currently rebuild pinball machines, old arcades and jukeboxes and usually the capacitors are the main issue with a lot of these (not counting mechanical). There are man people that sell "cap kits" for old electronics, but sometimes these are using crap capacitors as well.

Early 2000 electronics also suffered from bad caps, but this was due to some companies using "bootleg" capacitors in their builds - Apple Macs where bad for this (even though you pay a premium price for their junk), but a lot of TV and computer monitors also failed early too - most of them used power supplies from a manufacturer that used the bootlegs as well.
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RWDPLZ
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Report this Post05-15-2020 12:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for RWDPLZClick Here to visit RWDPLZ's HomePageSend a Private Message to RWDPLZEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose:

If the electronics is older than 10- 15 years, the electrolytic caps should be changed. Generally when there is a problem this is why.

The electrolyte inside the caps eventually dries up and causes the cap to change value (or not work) which in turn stresses all the other electronic components due to unfiltered AC.

I used to repair digital dashes and this as well as cold solder joints (as OP mentioned) are the main problems. I currently rebuild pinball machines, old arcades and jukeboxes and usually the capacitors are the main issue with a lot of these (not counting mechanical). There are man people that sell "cap kits" for old electronics, but sometimes these are using crap capacitors as well.

Early 2000 electronics also suffered from bad caps, but this was due to some companies using "bootleg" capacitors in their builds - Apple Macs where bad for this (even though you pay a premium price for their junk), but a lot of TV and computer monitors also failed early too - most of them used power supplies from a manufacturer that used the bootlegs as well.


I just today fixed a 2005 Miele Orion vacuum I got for $50 that was $800 back in the day by fixing a burnt resistor (bad solder joints) and replacing two no-name capacitors, works great. Frequently do the same with old computers, VCR's, game consoles, etc.
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