Quick question and I don't know if this falls under a plumbers domain (involves a gas line) or an electrician (ground a CSST gas line).

I'm selling my house and the inspector said I need to bond my CSST gas line. I've seen this done in other houses where it is bonded (6ga wire with bonding clamps) to the incoming main water line before the water meter. I've been researching on the internet and have found where they want it bonded to the main electrical panel and attached to the neutral bus bar. I can do both but the main water line would be way easier than snaking a 6 gauge wire to the main electrical panel. But i can do either I just need to know what the standard is to make sure its done right.

Thanks,

Dan

The standard will be county and state codes.

Here is a link to Cedar Rapids Building Codes. In here will be your answer. If not, call them directly. They will answer your code related questions... http://www.cedar-rapids.org...and_trades/codes.php

Local codes vary, so your county/state inspector may have different ideas on it.
https://structuretech1.com/...ements-final-update/

quote Originally posted by Tony Kania: The standard will be county and state codes. Here is a link to Cedar Rapids Building Codes. In here will be your answer. If not, call them directly. They will answer your code related questions... http://www.cedar-rapids.org...and_trades/codes.php

This is all I can find in the link you provided to the Electrical codes

"34.50 – BONDING OF GAS PIPING
Gas piping systems shall be bonded in accordance to the manufacturer's installation
requirements. The bonding jumper shall not be smaller than #6 AWG copper wire or
equivalent."

And this is all I can find in the plumbing codes of the links:

5.36 - 1210.15.5 ELECTRICAL BONDING OF CORRUGATED STAINLESS STEEL GAS SYSTEMS.
Section 1210.15.5 Electrical bonding of corrugated stainless steel gas systems is added as follows:

1210.15.5 Electrical bonding of corrugated stainless steel gas systems. Alternative CSST bonding may be approved by the mechanical inspector when such alternative design meets manufacturer requirements and International Code Council - Evaluation Service (ICC-ES) product certification system verification or International Association of Plumbing and Mechanical Officials - Evaluation Service (IAPMO-ES) [see also 310.1. 1 of the Fuel Gas Code for an alternative design].

Neither seem to answer my question.

quote Originally posted by maryjane: Local codes vary, so your county/state inspector may have different ideas on it. https://structuretech1.com/...ements-final-update/

Your link led to a link with a video showing it going to the Neutral Bus bar in my electrical panel. Overall Im feeling regardless of code differences this is the overall not gonna get in trouble way to do it.

Thanks for the help.

Dan

And if you DIY and do it wrong then can be far worse problems. Often w/ Legal and/or Fatal problems.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

quote Originally posted by DanFiero: Your link led to a link with a video showing it going to the Neutral Bus bar in my electrical panel. Overall Im feeling regardless of code differences this is the overall not gonna get in trouble way to do it. Thanks for the help. Dan

I didn't watch the video as I don' have gas lines here, but are you sure it show the bonding wire goingto the NEUTRAL bar in the main panel?
Is your main panel also the 'first means of disconnect"?

While I can do it and I have all the items I need to do it, The Ogre makes a point, I dot need the buyers coming back on me so for $100 I've hired and electrician to just do it. $100 bucks for peace of mind I guess in the grand scheme of things.

Thanks for the help everyone!!

Sadly yes, new owner could sue you for any problem w/ DIY electric and gas and more too.
Even when they sign that no warranty etc. at settlement... State laws and other things can be huge problems later and often just suing you even if you win your out of time/money likely for months to years.

If you "failed" city/county inspection, the record is there to see and you want to have proof that repairs comply w/ whatever codes.

Keep that receipt along w/ whatever doc's in your records for 3 to 7 years like most should be keeping tax records etc.
Plus may be able to write off repair(s) against selling price for taxes too. Don't file taxes yourself when you sell/buy a house etc. that year because most will miss big state and fed write-offs even if using software or online services. I won't trust HRBlock et al offices either to file correctly for this type of "big ticket" items.