I've learned over the years, it dont matter so much what type or brand it is so long as its CLEAN and the motor can breathe.
I've spent over 1/3rd of my life living on gravel roads surrounded by the dust of farm fields. That will clog a filter so fast you dont know what happened.
Rinsing it out and keeping a few spares on hand became a way-of-life, not stocking spares. get used to rotating them at last once a week, and if you dont by the 3rd week you just wont be going anywhere.
Basically, they came to the conclusion that air doesn't like to make sharp turns.
Yea I have a drop style air cleaner bottom where the filter lowers down around the carb with an open element on my 72 Buick, I might get or make a flat bottom one.
What ive found here in this forum, there are people who dont believe any graphs or videos that dont fit their own beliefs. ie/ I once posted a video where a tuner shop dynoed several old school muscle car engines on the same machine to see what their 'real' hp numbers were in contradiction to what manufacturers posted for insurance companies. The testers had no horse in the race. I think it was a 426 Hemi, 454 chevy, 427 Ford & Chevy and a 409. They ran each engine on the dyno...on screen to prove the numbers and several on here immediately said they were bogus. I already know air filters really have little effect between brands, just as aftermarket 'cold air intake' claims are pretty much marketing BS.
What ive found here in this forum, there are people who dont believe any graphs or videos that dont fit their own beliefs. ie/ I once posted a video where a tuner shop dynoed several old school muscle car engines on the same machine to see what their 'real' hp numbers were in contradiction to what manufacturers posted for insurance companies. The testers had no horse in the race. I think it was a 426 Hemi, 454 chevy, 427 Ford & Chevy and a 409. They ran each engine on the dyno...on screen to prove the numbers and several on here immediately said they were bogus. I already know air filters really have little effect between brands, just as aftermarket 'cold air intake' claims are pretty much marketing BS.
Only a fool runs a engine w/o air filters and expect that engine will last but nice to have a base to compare others.
No surprise that V-stacks have high score. Salad bowl is a Simple V-stack and Funny work so well. Big reason most can't run them because... 1. Driven on the street 2. Street have rules/laws affect anything above hood line in most places and worse not standard from state to state. One might allow 10-12" and next door is often very different. Even an aftermarket low scoop only 2-3" can be problems in some areas. Family member got stopped several times for just that and he's scoop didn't do anything so he removed it after only 1 summer.
Several others are worthless and often don't clean including Dry foams and K&N. (Many oil filters like K&N can cause problems to MAF units. Worse when DIY fails at recharge them.) Amsoil makes air filters but maybe didn't want them to test. Now their filters look like a knockoff of or made by K&N...
Amsoil made oiled foam filters that clean well. Sim to B&S oil foam filters for small engines that work even in very dirty environments. Old Amsoil filter was never really sold as performance item, just better and cheaper then "paper" filters that you trash every year or less depending how bad your roads are. I had many dirt roads and farm areas and plug up many "paper" filters but now "paper" filters often last two or more years because drive less and very few dirt roads. ("paper" includes all one time filters regardless filter media used.)
Many current "Paper" filters are other types of filter media. Often works better and less flow restriction. Many are Not like old ones 10+ years ago.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Hmm, do you think just a taller filter even on a dropped base would perform the same as a flat base with a shorter filter?
The drop base are usually good for 1" I thought. So if you could fit a 1" taller air filter, you should fit a "flat" base. Usually hood clearance is the only height restriction.
The drop base are usually good for 1" I thought. So if you could fit a 1" taller air filter, you should fit a "flat" base. Usually hood clearance is the only height restriction.
..... I mean instead of a new base. Would the 1 inch taller filter have the same effect as the old filter with a flat base.
[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 04-30-2018).]
I am scrolling through, but can I get the low down? Can I just buy a cheap ass filter and change it more frequently to keep it clean? That's what I do with my home's A/C unit.
They really end up focusing more on housings / cleaner shapes.
Yeah, I watched it all the way through and saw that. I am not spending any money on changing my filter setup. From what I've read, and believe every car manufacturer is doing, the factory one is well designed. I couldn't care less about more HP and am not disillusion thinking I'll see a gain by going with a high dollar one. Better MPG and longevity are what I am after anyway.
I stupidly added exhaust to my truck right after I got it. While I did notice a 1MPG increase on my trip, in retrospect, I don't think it actually did anything but cost me $500. It does sound better, but from what I've read dumping the exhaust after the mufflers would've done similar for the cost of me climbing underneath. I still may do that as I don't like the way it looks and I don't want to spend money welding tips on to it.
Yeah, I watched it all the way through and saw that. I am not spending any money on changing my filter setup. From what I've read, and believe every car manufacturer is doing, the factory one is well designed. I couldn't care less about more HP and am not disillusion thinking I'll see a gain by going with a high dollar one. Better MPG and longevity are what I am after anyway.
I stupidly added exhaust to my truck right after I got it. While I did notice a 1MPG increase on my trip, in retrospect, I don't think it actually did anything but cost me $500. It does sound better, but from what I've read dumping the exhaust after the mufflers would've done similar for the cost of me climbing underneath. I still may do that as I don't like the way it looks and I don't want to spend money welding tips on to it.
400HP 6.2 Ford engine, if anyone cares.
Oh yeah in a way its kind of just academic to talk about. "car science" I mean that big block pushing around 700h hp had to get up in high rpms for the filter and housing to cause restriction, and just venturing a guess a 20 hp difference on that thing would be what, .02 hp difference on say a 2.8 Fiero? But on my cruiser, if I can see any improvement by getting a 1 inch taller filter for my open element I might as well. I did think it was odd that some of the air filters resulted in more HP than no filter.
[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 04-30-2018).]
Oh yeah in a way its kind of just academic to talk about. "car science" I mean that big block pushing around 700h hp had to get up in high rpms for the filter and housing to cause restriction, and just venturing a guess a 20 hp difference on that thing would be what, .02 hp difference on say a 2.8 Fiero? But on my cruiser, if I can see any improvement by getting a 1 inch taller filter for my open element I might as well. I did think it was odd that some of the air filters resulted in more HP than no filter.
I found that interesting too. Margin of error? Personally I think it is like the tornado fuel save effect and that they actually could gain a LOT more.
Unfortunately, or fortunately depending on your outlook, when I just checked my filter it appeared clean. I don't recall changing it any time recently, but it looks like I will not be getting a much hoped bump in MPG. It's tough out there.
Small changes in shape and texture can make a lot of difference in fluid dynamics.
As an example, consider my Buell XB9r. Where the fuel tank normally resides is instead, a large air box. Inside is a relatively conventional oval shaped air filter that is approximately 5” tall, which sits above a downdraft throttle body. In the first year of production, the filter lid was flat on the inside. In subsequent years, they gained a couple of horsepower by adding a small cone shaped protrusion inside the lid that pointed directly down to the center of the throttle body. There is also a similar shaped protrusion in the cover of the S&S air cleaner on my FLH, for the same reason.
Small changes in shape and texture can make a lot of difference in fluid dynamics.
As an example, consider my Buell XB9r. Where the fuel tank normally resides is instead, a large air box. Inside is a relatively conventional oval shaped air filter that is approximately 5” tall, which sits above a downdraft throttle body. In the first year of production, the filter lid was flat on the inside. In subsequent years, they gained a couple of horsepower by adding a small cone shaped protrusion inside the lid that pointed directly down to the center of the throttle body. There is also a similar shaped protrusion in the cover of the S&S air cleaner on my FLH, for the same reason.
Wow, I forgot how small the details I went to on my Meteor. The bottom of my air filter tray was very low and came up to a curve above the air horn(choke tower) the lid was kinda pointed so, I used a wedge to increase the cone and flipped it upside down. I was able to use a 6 inch high filter, a rubber shock insulator was used under nut on the original carb post. I did at least have emotional gains in power.
When Chrysler brought out the new generation Hemi in the 300 and Magnum, some speed shop in Ca tested all the different cold air intake systems from all the aftermarket manufacturers. Note that in stock form, both draw air thru a tube at the bottom of the front bumper (cold air). If i remember, only one or two showed any hp gains...but only like 2-3 hp. Some tested even reduced hp output compared to stock.
When I was young, I never ran any air cleaner on anything. 4bbls sounded great open...didnt care about engine life then...but never broke one either.
I would guess dirty air entering the engine would affect valve seats, rings and cylinder walls. I dont even know if it would really make it into the crankcase or not unless the rings were really worn out.
I mean that big block pushing around 700h hp had to get up in high rpms for the filter and housing to cause restriction, and just venturing a guess a 20 hp difference on that thing would be what, .02 hp difference on say a 2.8 Fiero? 
