Anyone have a link saved that pertains to engine removal and replacement in a 1997 -2003 F series? I just bought a new reman, and any advice and links would be greatly appreciated.

I mainly need pictures. I had my truck in a shop from March to about 3 weeks ago. They removed my engine, tried to fit another, and when I pulled it out of their lot and made it home, she had bolts in the frame rails, and nothing labeled. So yeah, I am installing this engine in my truck without being the guy that took it out.

Thanks in advance...

I have a fully restored '98 F-150. I had a Jasper engine and tranny installed about 10K miles ago.

I'd be happy to take some pictures for you.

We're away for the weekend, back Tuesday night. Send me a PM if you need help.

I may need to Ray. Thank you.

So excited to get started. 😳 Truck has been down a year. Not a special edition like yours, but a clean 4×4.

OK, standing by.

Just curious, any progress?

No, Tony is still the same polite, no nonsense guy he always was.

I doubt we'll get him to change.

Ha!

I am an overly clean and neat person. I take a lot of time to do things.

I do have all of my parts cleaned, bagged, labled, and organized. Last Friday I finally took my core back to Motorworks. (An absolutely amazing engine remanufacturing company that I would recommend to anyone.)

While the engine is out, I took the time to rebuild the front suspension. I put new tierods on and ball joints about a month or so before she was taken off of the road last year. Need a few more new parts, so I just spent another few dollars to do it all.

We own a small business. There is nothing like working 70 plus hours every week for yourself. Nothing like it at all. This past year was our first, and we made it through with hard work and honesty. Actually, the honesty part is why I am so damn busy. There are so many scandalous crooks here in this town, that a bit of truth can land you a job. I do not even need to show my work often. Just show up and word of mouth has already rang it's bell.

I guess a few pics of the old girl would help...





Different wheels, but I did recently install a new lumber rack similar to this one that I had. I have led reverse lights and one of those led light bars to install yet.

When you said the truck was clean you wasn't kidding. Nice looking truck.

Thank you!

The interior is much of the same. No back seats, but I have things set up for my tools. Everything has a hook, shelf, or a place to go. My levels and such do not rattle around while I travel.

This truck has cost me untold thousands. It began with A&M auto parts in Tampa. Those tools, and especially Joe Miller are crooks. He sent me a Romeo Engine for my Windsor truck. It never ended. I moved on, but just wanted to mention A&M to you all.

I should have purchased a different truck last year when I had the chance. I really do love my '97 though. I would rather pull up to a customers home in this thing, than in a brand new decked out mcmansion.

Eh, enjoy your day folks. I will not get back to this for another few weeks. I have 230 4x8 sheets of drywall to haul and install into a basement tomorrow.

quote Originally posted by Tony Kania: I will not get back to this for another few weeks. I have 230 4x8 sheets of drywall to haul and install into a basement tomorrow.

Gosh, I'm busy with all the other things my wife has planned for me this winter but, I'm pretty sure Ray is available if you need help.

Rams

To put the drywall debacle into perspective, I have to transverse a small home with narrow doorways to get this stuff down the stairs. I had to remove a banister, the associated railings and part of a wall to repair later to achieve this. I have about 140 steps to carry each piece to work room. After two months of building, I actually have a pretty good idea of the amount of steps it takes to get from place to place. One of my OCD things.

I have thought about hiring someone to help in this. I need to stay within a quoted budget on this project, and what is a day of hard labor anyway?

Tell you what, if Tony has to depend on a 66 year old ex-corporate executive to install drywall he's in a heap of trouble.

For one thing, MY minimum wage is more than $15 / hr.

And then there's the 66 year old thing.

And the soft executive hands.

And the bossy nature.

[This message has been edited by RayOtton (edited 01-07-2018).]

Load bearing drywall.

quote Originally posted by ls3mach: Load bearing drywall.

Yes, the electricity resistant kind. Safety first!

Do you know how many of our customers that do not opt for the load bearing rated DW? It just blows my mind that folks would not think about the ramifications.

I sell a lot of predrilled drywall. Just set it and forget it.

I had drywall in my corner office, if that helps.

I don't know if it was load bearing but it was bullshi*t resistant.

[This message has been edited by RayOtton (edited 01-07-2018).]

quote Originally posted by RayOtton: I had drywall in my corner office, if that helps. I don't know if it was load bearing but it was bullshi*t resistant.

IF, it was still there when you left, it was...................... LOL

Rams

Shhhhhh, you have revealed the secret of my success.

Note:
Unplug wires at a few points then Pull Engine & Trans as one piece.
Example: GM FWD cars you unplug C100 ECM/PCM and a very few others. You don't unplug sensors etc in the car.

For many trucks need to pull radiator, framing for that and front trim to get room. (Some trucks Drive train goes in/out from the bottom sim to Fiero.)

Factory installs them same way and why many bolts are very hard to impossible get at.

then do all work outside where easy to get at.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Kind of like a Fiero spark plugs, if you use the right tools, it is relatively straight forward as far as difficult installs go. You NEED a 2 ton hoist, an engine leveler, and a bit of strategy to slide it into place. It will go in easily if set up correctly. The harmonic hits the radiator support ever so slightly going in and out. Just have to adjust level to get it to clear.

Back at the money pit...

Question. I put the engine in a few weeks ago, but ran into an issue. I can rotate the engine freely at the crank when the engine is on it's dowels lined up to the transmission and about 1/4" space or less with bolts installed. After I torque the 8 bolts mating the engine to the transmission I can no longer rotate the engine by hand. I had the same issue with the last engine.

I asked on two Ford forums, but no replies. Beyond frustrated, but "cool as a cucumber in a bowl of hot sauce". Thoughts?

quote Originally posted by Tony Kania: Back at the money pit... Question. I put the engine in a few weeks ago, but ran into an issue. I can rotate the engine freely at the crank when the engine is on it's dowels lined up to the transmission and about 1/4" space or less with bolts installed. After I torque the 8 bolts mating the engine to the transmission I can no longer rotate the engine by hand. I had the same issue with the last engine. I asked on two Ford forums, but no replies. Beyond frustrated, but "cool as a cucumber in a bowl of hot sauce". Thoughts?

Transmission issue?

I am dumbfounded.

Transmission "ran when parked".

I did not do the initial removal and numerous attempts at installing the incorrect engine last year. It could be ANYTHING.

Am I correct in knowing that the engine should still spin?

Did you install the torque converter to the flexplate before installing the trans? If you did then the torque converter will not seat properly and when you tighten the engine to trans bolts things will bind up. If you seated the torque converter inside the trans and then installed the trans to the engine then I am out if ideas.

quote Originally posted by Hudini: Did you install the torque converter to the flexplate before installing the trans? If you did then the torque converter will not seat properly and when you tighten the engine to trans bolts things will bind up. If you seated the torque converter inside the trans and then installed the trans to the engine then I am out if ideas. Click to show

Hmm? I am a confirmed idiot I do believe.

I installed the flex plate to engine, torque convertor to flex plate, then stabbed it in place.

I should place torque convertor on transmission splines, keep flex plate on engine, stab in engine flex plate combo, then line up the torque convertor bolts with the flex plate, tighten engine to transmission, then tighten the 4 torque convertor bolts to the flex plate?


Thank you all!


Edit: Not blaming the last guys who tried this, only that I am obtuse on how it came out, and how it goes in. Not removing it originally has been a pain. I like pain.

[This message has been edited by Tony Kania (edited 06-08-2018).]

quote Originally posted by Tony Kania: I should place torque convertor on transmission splines, keep flex plate on engine, stab in engine flex plate combo, then line up the torque convertor bolts with the flex plate, tighten engine to transmission, then tighten the 4 torque convertor bolts to the flex plate?

Sounds right. You push the converter in until it clicks/ seats all the way back. (I've only done old GM converters.)

Helpful maybe:
http://www.explorerforum.co...all-problems.274525/

Good catch Mr Hudini.

Yes torque converter in trans, flexplate on motor. When you have the motor and trans bolted together, you should need to pull the torque converter out an 1/8-3/16" to meet up with flexplate. Make sure the pilot hole in the crank os clean, the pilot on the torque converter also. Along with your engine and trans mating surfaces. You want it all aligned well to help with longevity.

That used to be a very common error for guys who were used to working with a clutch, because they were used to building the clutch on the flywheel and sliding the tranny into it, instead of the other way around.

Thank you again for the amazing advice. Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you...

I spent the first hour getting all of the tools back in order and chained it up to the lift. The engine came out a bit rough, but I put it back together like stated, and she went in without any struggle. I had to adjust the trans with the jack a few times, and line up the two dowels with another jack and wood on the right front of the engine to get it to seat. But, it went in very smoothly. I did inspect all the splines and mating surfaces. Cleaned up the dowels a little with our good friend Emery Cloth. Also removed the exhaust log studs for clearance. (Should have done that in the first place!)

I felt the TC stop after initially placing it on the trans shaft, but gave it a twist and nothing. I then picked it up a bit to get weight off of it and twisted. Success!

I got six bolt in and cleaned up. My day tomorrow was to do this. I got bored. I plan on double checking everything in the morning and begin buttoning her up. I will update...

Wow its nuts to me seeing one of those trucks that looks like it still has paint on the frame , they rusted out over here.

Just got to keep plugging away at