My daily driver, 2009 Elantra, 110K miles, 132-hp, 2.0L 4 cylinder, just started making an engine noise that I believe is from a cam or crank bearing. It is a continuous, mid-frequency sound, definitely not from a lifter or rocker arm. I've listened all over the engine and accessories and it is coming from the inside, so not a bearing on the power steering pump, etc.
Data Point --- > when I had the oil changed recently (5W-20 per OEM, non-synthetic) the noise completely stopped but after 1000 miles it is starting to return. I take this to mean the oil is losing viscosity. My options seem to be:
Data Point 2 --> when starting the engine cold there is no noise. After the engine is warm the noise returns.
1-switch to higher viscosity oil. I never have to do cold starts and it can be hot as blazes here.
2-start using an oil 'additive. There are a ton of these, such as STP High Mileage Oil Treatment. I have no experience with these.
Any thoughts & suggestions would be appreciated.
John
[This message has been edited by Notorio (edited 09-11-2017).]
I would see if 5-20 is what the car maker calls for. I have an 08 Subaru Legacy that I take to the place that I bought it from, and they keep putting 0-20 in, and I keep bringing it back and make them change it. The manual calls for 5-30 and the oil fill cap agrees. I can't find anything searching the internet that changed to the lighter weight oil. The 0 on the cold end is ok for me but we take the car to Florida and other places where the weather is hotter than here and 20 weight is too thin.
See data for engine for rebuild and look for use of balancer somewhere in the block. Sim to 88 Fiero Duke.
Many start marking noise and later die and trash the engine. Heavy oil won't help but hind the sound for a while.
Otherwise can be anything.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
No oil additive or thicker viscosity oil is going to repair your engine. Find a qualified shop or two and get their diagnosis and estimate cost of repairs. There's a lot of good (well intentioned) folks on this board but, we only know what you tell us. Get a professional's opinion.
Yeah, you can put thicker oil in the engine but, that can cause additional issues. Best of luck in whatever you decide to do.
------------------ Ron
Isn't it strange that after a bombing, everyone blames the bomber, his upbringing, his environment, his culture, his mental state but … after a shooting, the problem is the gun.... Open your frigg'n minds, think about all the other tools that can be made into WMDs.
I sincerely hope that life is never discovered on another planet because, sure as hell Progressives and Socialists will want to send them money.
Thanks for the advice, guys. Just to be clear, I'm not hoping to 'fix' the problem with thicker oil or an additive, however, I am hoping to put off the day when a rebuild is in order ...
I added a second 'data point' that I noticed today on cold start-up.
The advice for doing it right has already been given...
That being said, to accomplish what you are trying to do, you would want to bump up the final number in the oil viscosity - ie from 10w30 to 10w40 - since it's the "hot" viscosity you are trying to change, not the cold. No point bumping up both, unless there's no choice.
put a gauge on the engine oil psi.. I'll bet it a oil pump.. and as it warms the spec opens up and the pump isn't pumping as much as it should.. as the oil is fining away around the unit instead of out it..
Its an Elantra. Just drive it till it breaks. Ive had old cars with taps and knocks that drove for 50k with them. Thicker oil or additives may be ok for bad bearings, but hurt things like lifters. Cars with MDS wont function right with oil thicker than recommended. They need the thinner oil to fill the lifter instantly to reactivate a cylinder. At least thats what I was told for my Hemi Magnum.
According to one site the absolute maximum psi shear value in an oil and supplement is Pennzoil Ultimate synthetic in 5W-30 with Prolong engine oil supplement. I've no idea if the guy was a shill for Prolong or Pennzoil. Just passing along one websites conclusions.
Multiple Displacement System. Lots of cars now use it to deactivate random cylinders to increase gas mileage when the power isnt needed. ie/ 5.7 Hemi on a freeway shuts down 4 cylinders cruising above 55mph...unless you press the accelerator. Then all 8 come back online instantly. Too thick of oil, and there will be a short lag...sort of like old school turbo lag...according to Chrysler. Thats why they say only use recommended oil weights. Some do it with valve solenoid control, some electronically.
Multiple Displacement System. Lots of cars now use it to deactivate random cylinders to increase gas mileage .
Random? I don't think so..................
------------------ Ron
Isn't it strange that after a bombing, everyone blames the bomber, his upbringing, his environment, his culture, his mental state but … after a shooting, the problem is the gun.... Open your frigg'n minds, think about all the other tools that can be made into WMDs.
I sincerely hope that life is never discovered on another planet because, sure as hell Progressives and Socialists will want to send them money.
I see now what you mean. Thanks for all the input. So I went to O'Reilly's and got the next higher viscosity old, i.e. bumped up from 5W-20 to 5W-30. It is also their special SKU for 'High Mileage Engines' (over 75K.) I'll change that this weekend and see what happens. If it goes longer than 1000 miles w/o the noise that will be an improvement over the 5W-20. If that doesn't work I'll move up to a synthetic next.
Originally posted by blackrams: Random? I don't think so..................
And you would think wrong. Different brands do it differently. some shut off the same cylinders, some shut off alternating ones so none foul, cadillac even shut off varying number of cylinders depending on power demand, 2...4... or 6 on some of their V8s. Your welcome.
And you would think wrong. Different brands do it differently. some shut off the same cylinders, some shut off alternating ones so none foul, cadillac even shut off varying number of cylinders depending on power demand, 2...4... or 6 on some of their V8s. Your welcome.
Roger, Look up random.
Here, I'll do it for you.
ran·dom [ˈrandəm]
ADJECTIVE made, done, happening, or chosen without method or conscious decision: "a random sample of 100 households" synonyms: unsystematic · unmethodical · arbitrary · unplanned · undirected · [more]
Please choose your wording with a little more forethought.
Enlightenment is a good thing, so is having access to a dictionary.
[This message has been edited by blackrams (edited 09-14-2017).]
Whatever. No matter what, MDS = mulitple displacement system. I just defined what MDS was. I wasnt trying to give an engineering degree course of every engine that has it by every manufacturer.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 09-14-2017).]
Whatever. No matter what, MDS = mulitple displacement system. I just defined what MDS was. I wasnt trying to give an engineering degree course of every engine that has it by every manufacturer.
You are welcome.
Or, You're welcome, which ever you prefer.
[This message has been edited by blackrams (edited 09-14-2017).]
Just drive it till it breaks. Ive had old cars with taps and knocks that drove for 50k with them. Thicker oil or additives may be ok for bad bearings, but hurt things like lifters. Cars with MDS wont function right with oil thicker than recommended. They need the thinner oil to fill the lifter instantly to reactivate a cylinder. At least thats what I was told for my Hemi Magnum.
