SOLD!!Hey everyone,
For those of you who have seen my build, you'll know that in 2013 FieroGuru took on the job of taking my SBC with the F23 for improvements, a serpentine belt setup, and fuel injection.
Here is the thread around the time he got it in the engine compartment and started marking out other things he (and you!) would need to do to make it fit.
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/F...3/HTML/000142-4.html (information and pictures are in this thread. The engine is out of the car now and I will be cleaning it up a little).
My new build is on a custom cradle, with an LS4 and a 4T80E. So I am offering to the Fiero Community this package:
The Engine you will get:
350 SBC, bored up to 355. Holley Stealth Ram intake, 36# Bosch Design Three injectors, 4 bolt main block, forged rods and pistons, AFR heads, chromemoly 1.6 full rocker rollers, dual-spring Patriot valve springs, Comp Cams 280XFI HR13, wiring harness, all hoses, starter. Coated exhaust headers. Effectively a complete engine. Peak dyno was at 371HP and 381 ft/lbs torque. Engine has less than 20K miles on it.
Cradle you'll get:
The cradle from my '86 Fiero, which is already modified to bolt in the SBC and the F23 transmission
The cradle also comes with the Heim endline joints and the FieroStore swaybar. (edit, forgot to add this before)
The Transmission you'll get:
F23 (no LSD).
The modified flywheel (you may want to have a new gear ring pressed on by a machine shop there is one tooth missing on this one)
MISC stuff you get:
Refurbished (not used) AC Compressor,
The modified AC lines that go from the compressor to the body lines.
AN Fittings almost everywhere.
Any brackets (such as transmission shift bracket)
The modified decklid (if you want it!)
The 0411 PCM with the current tune.
What you will need to do:
Read the first 8 pages or so of my thread carefully. FieroGuru put in about every detail you could ever want to know.
You will need to modify your decklid and hinges so it can close (or just the hinges if you take my decklid).
You will need to modify your passenger side frame rail a little.
You should flush everything out. The engine has been sitting for a few years now. Some hoses were disconnected, and I'm sure some insects are in places.
You will need to get a remote water pump. (stainless braided AN hoses come with the setup).
You will need to buy a clutch/pressure plate. I used a Spec 3+ and it was great.
You will need to order the shift cables (one is a getrag cable, the other is a pre-modified cable available from a company called Push N Pull)
If converting from auto-to-manual. You will need a shifter and shift pedals if you don't have it. (Sorry, when I talked to Mike, he reminded me I had promised him the cables, pedals, and shifter). If you have a manual, this isn't needed.
I know I'm not going to get anything close to what I paid for the engine, parts, transmission or labor. So I'm not going to say "this all cost me x-amount!" However if you want to do some quick math, I'm selling this setup for around 30% of what it cost me.
I'm asking $4,000 USD. And you'll need to be willing to pick it up from the Raleigh, N.C. area, or negotiate with someone like CowsPatoot for delivery ( he has a nice pickup truck, and likes to drive).
[This message has been edited by Trinten (edited 10-19-2020).]