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FS: Performance 2.8 with ~ 6000 miles on it. Perfect for a 2.8 Turbo build. by zkhennings
Started on: 07-29-2014 11:06 PM
Replies: 4 (690 views)
Last post by: zkhennings on 07-27-2015 04:33 PM
zkhennings
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Report this Post07-29-2014 11:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zkhenningsSend a Private Message to zkhenningsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have for sale my mildly built 2.8 with around 6000 miles on it (been driving it since May 2013 and now it is parked in my garage)

The engine was new, with all new parts installed and with rebuilt heads. I built it to turbo it, but I never did because I decided I wanted to swap in an ecotec instead.

It has a Compcams 260H camshaft which I selected for a cam that would be reasonably decent for a turbo application (commonly used on the 2.8 turbos, equal intake and exhaust duration)

The Headgaskets are Felpro Severe Duty head gaskets which I selected to hold boost.

I assembled everything with the proper ring gap and gap spacing.

The heads and intakes and exhaust manifolds are ported. It has a totally custom 2.5" exhaust with custom Y pipe I can include with it or sell separately to someone else (wouldn't work with a turbo application).

I used a Lucas zinc additive in every oil change to protect the cam. I used conventional motor oil to break the engine in, and at ~ 3000 miles I started using exclusively Mobil 1 oil (with zinc additive)

The engine burns no oil.

I have 22lb disk style injectors from a NA 3800 that I can include as well if the new owner wanted to do a turbo/sc application.

I have an EGR delete, and the PROM has the EGR codes deleted from it. The PROM was purchased from Phonedawgz.

It has a spec stage 2 clutch I can include too since I have no use for it (currently installed, installed in 2011, around 10,000 miles on it).

Here is the dyno run I did on a Mustang Dyno (generally regarded as the lowest reading dynos):


Some assembly pics:

















Link to my build thread

The only issues with the engine are that the harmonic balancer needs to be replaced as the weight has slipped, I recommend a different oil pan as mine has a tiny hole in it near the top which has been JB welded, and the rear main seal might be leaking, or it's the oil pan gasket behind the flywheel. Either way it is very little oil and it is not enough to cause drips. Also the alternator post stripped, so I drilled it out and tapped it larger and used a slightly larger bolt I cut the head off of for the post. Just want to be up front about this, it has not caused me any issues but in case anything happens.

Feel free to PM with any questions and offers.

My asking price is $1500 plus shipping or local pick up, and it is located in Massachusetts just north of Boston. I certainly believe the engine is worth at least $1500, I made sure that everything was absolutely perfect when building it because I believed I was going to be using it for a long time, also it was not my first time building a 2.8, and it runs perfectly.

It will come with the ECM with EGR delete PROM, flywheel, clutch, some extra parts and gaskets, and an extra head.

Zach

[This message has been edited by zkhennings (edited 03-13-2015).]

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zkhennings
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Report this Post09-30-2014 02:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zkhenningsSend a Private Message to zkhenningsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Bump! Haven't been on here in a bit, Fiero is comatose waiting for an ecotec to be priced right =)
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zkhennings
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Report this Post03-13-2015 01:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zkhenningsSend a Private Message to zkhenningsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Going to bump again and drop the price to $1250.

It is a very solid engine, I plastigauged every bearing, individually filed every ring specific for each cylinder, and built it to last. Even primed the engine with an extra distributor I ground the gear off of so it never had to spin without oil in all of the passages. It has a new oil pump and water pump.

Break in procedure involved changing the oil after 20 min of running. I use a Lucas Zinc additive for flat tappet cams both in break in and normal operation. Heavy acceleration and deceleration to set rings properly, then I drove the car a little harder than normal to get the rings to fully break in properly, but I kept it below 4000 rpms the whole time. Then changed the oil at 500 miles (plus zinc). Put in a nicer conventional. At 3000 miles I changed to Mobil 1 full synthetic (and the zinc additive). At ~6000 miles it burns 0 oil.

At 10,000 miles I was planning on using the Evergreen product called Motor Silk to add a hard and slippery boron coating to all the internals.

All of these precautions should be standard on any engine you would get professionally built.

Like I said I have a bunch of spare injectors, larger injectors, and fuel rails and other parts that I will include with it. Comes with a spec stage 2 clutch, and I will even throw in my Isuzu transmission (which leaks a little but works fine).

You could keep it NA at 135hp at the wheels, and tune it to better make use of the cam, or you could boost it like I was planning on doing to over 200hp. How about for an extra $250 I can throw in a WRX turbocharger I have.

Feel free to contact me directly at Seven 81 - Four 39 - Two 054 (sorry, spam-bot protection)

Zach
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Report this Post03-13-2015 06:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for bigformulaSend a Private Message to bigformulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
my 2.8 is tired and about ready for a new one. What is the gap on the rings set to?
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zkhennings
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Report this Post07-27-2015 04:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for zkhenningsSend a Private Message to zkhenningsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I went according to the Haynes manual and I made them right around the middle of the ring gap range, I will check when I go home but I believe (it's been a LONG time) that min gap was specified to 0.010" so I made all gaps around 0.015" to give them a little extra room to expand under boost
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