Hehe yeah i know blake I actually almost did go the turbo route, i almost pulled the trigger on a new ball bearing T70 the other day. But then i really like twin screws also. I am waiting to see what wbodystore comes out and if i dont like wbodystores twin screw then the turbo is going on. I am maxing this M90 out on my setup just as you were with your setup.
the whipple is neat. i was doing some preheating of my tires today in the driveway and found the limit's of a stock axle... it was louder then i expected! neat stuff though. it sounds insane over 7k rpms. it actually sounds good!
Nice I knew you would break an axle, it was just a matter of time. Now go get some bulletproof axles and CV joints I am curious about since you dont really need CV joints in the rear of the fiero since it only goes up and down and not side to side and up and down like a standard FWD car does, you could probably have some custom axles built and use U-joints instead of CV joints. I dont know if it would work or not but i highly doubt you would break another one then.
i have a set of hubs and axles that are suppsed to be able to take 800. i want to throw another stocker back in. i don't know what the deal with it was. i had a reman on it, but the boot tore. so discount upgraded to a new one for free. the new one had a 1.25" shaft. Looked 100x better then the reman. i think it was a fluke. not to mention i was on my 235/35/18's vs the 275/40/17 drag radials. which also pushes me towards fluke. either way, back on track. need a whipple, you won't regret it either :P
btw, you need c/v's because they move in and out. you could do a slip joint like the rear of the trans, but in the shaft itself. doing that would lead to issue's of strength also. the best bet is what i had made. i'll email you some pics of them if you like. i think they are built using porsche joints and the hubs just look like stockers, but redrilled and splined. could be wrong through.
Yeah i would love to see your setup on the axles. Send the pics to dltraylor@hotmail.com also did you ever get the boost bypass figured out on your whipple. I know that PRJ on clubgp was saying the right way to do the boost bypass to route the bypass after the intercooler and not through the case like the kit comes with. When you get your turbo setup done i would like first dibs on your whipple if you would be willing to part with it. Let me know please. Thanks Daniel
As you probably know, West Coast Fiero is now located in Tehachapi. My car is there now getting a 3.8 swapped in.
I had hoped my car would be at the show, but I am not sure it will be ready. We shall see..... maybe as a work in progress as everything except the engine is done.
yep, the bypass is all sorted out. it pushes the air through the intercooler. then on it's way to the bbv it has to go back through the rear of the intercooler. so it passes the core twice before it goes back into the intake. i should be going out to the shop tomorrow and i'll snap some pics then for you. i want to see what i can do with the whipple and then you're more then welcome to it. just gotta get a little bit more money to run next week.
Here is a pic of the custom axles that were installed into my car.
JR/Kitcarman claims that they are rated for 600ftlbs of torque. He absolutely refused to tell me who made them though. If they break I quess I will have to find a shop that can reproduce them for me. They appear to have a much thicker shaft than the stock Fiero shaft.
Very nice looking axles Jimmy. I have a feeling that i will swapping the built auto in very shortly after i grenade this getrag. Instead of pieceing together axles im going to talk to the same transmisson shop that Cali-kid had build his bulletproof axles for his SBC.
David- I might have to drop by west coast fiero and check out your car and how the swap is coming along. I pass right by west coast fiero everyday and i have only been in there shop once.
Blake- The pictures would be great if you could. Please when you are ready to get rid of the whipple, i would like first crack at it.
Dude you are one luck sob i'm jelious of you i would love to do the sc 3800 build i think with the looks of the motor your car is going to be show room quilty. i'm very intrested in this build my oppion would to be go all out though like port and polish EVERYTHING while its out and you can get to it Well be looking for a VIDEO on how it runs and please go get some numbers on it i would like to see what it runs in the 1/4's
Thanks for the complements. Im trying to make it show quality because next year its going to Westfest 09. Everything has practically been ported and polished that could be. The supercharger has been ported and polished out to 75MM and im running the 75MM N* throttlebody. The heads have been ported and polished to a Stage 3 ZZP head equivelent. This setup for sure will have several hours of dyno time down in Huntington beach for the perfect tune and hopefully i can get a couple of runs down Famoso Raceway to see what this setup will do in the 1/4. Im going to launch it similar to the way that Matt Hawkins launches his Turbo 3.4 dohc to try and save grenading the getrag.
Yes, please do drop by WCF. Would appreciate your thoughts about the work that is going on. I am trying to make my mind up about whether to do a cam and head work; if we do that we will not be finished in time for the car show. May not make it in time any way.
Regards,
David
[This message has been edited by D2inDFW (edited 07-19-2008).]
David, Thanks for those links. I read that article about the twin screws on ZZPs website a long time ago but i didnt know there was a supercharger forum. Good find! When i go by there i will take a look at what there doing to your car and ill let you know what i think. I would definitely say go with a heads and cam if you forsee your self in the future looking for more power. Even something such as the VS or XP cam from ZZP can be used in a daily driver no problem. I dont think i would go as far as the XPZ cam in daily driver but thats just me.
Allright everyone lots of pictures of the engine sitting on the cradle hooked up to the getrag coming soon. And then the fabbing and running of the Intercooler lines and frozenboost FMHE. Stay tuned, getting alot closer to the startup video
Oh and I forgot. To get around those tough Cali emissions laws, just put your title and registration in my name and I will send you some Oklahoma tags.
I have some more pics from yesterdays work. I got the new transmisson and cradle painted and then i took a couple pics of the bracket that we fabbed up to hold the slave cyclinder. We rotated it 90 degrees so that the pacesetter crossover will clear the slave. More pics on thursday and friday. We should get it mounted on the cradle and a test fit is possible.
[This message has been edited by daniel87fierogt (edited 08-12-2008).]
ignorant prodigy-I am using the stock size valves and they are the stock GM valves. I was going to upgrade to manley severe duty valves but then i decided that i am waiting for the ZZPerformance Stage 4 alluminum heads to come out so i didnt go to larger valves.
You know frankie had the same failure with gm valves. He was running an s3 cam and 130lb springs and the dish broke off the valve.. same way mine did with SI valves and 105lb springs... It makes me sketchy on all valves besides manley. I have never heard of a single case of manley valves breaking. Not just in 3800s but in all applications.
------------------ Thinking about dropping the L67 from my gp into a Fiero. 12.466 @ 114.15 INTENSE S1X/ZZP IC/TOG Headers
Yes i know what you mean about the stock GM valves. I have seen over on Clubgp a couple of times where guys were running 105 or 130lb springs and it broke the valve, but then on the other side of things you see alot of guys running them with many thousands of miles with no failure. ZZP just needs to hurry up and get the Aluminum heads out so i can get rid of these stock valves and actually get something that flows.
Yeah Dark i would have to agree with you on the flow numbers for the aluminium heads as cast. They say that they flow less than there Stage 3 head which is just a ported and polished stock cast iron head. But they also said that the ported aluminum heads will flow far more than the stage 3 heads so when i buy the Aluminum heads i will take them over to my machinest and have them port them out and throw them on the flow bench, then they will be a nice set of heads combined with a XPZ cam or a stage 3 turbo cam
[This message has been edited by daniel87fierogt (edited 08-14-2008).]
Got alot done tonight. Put the stage 4 spec clutch in and mated the tranny and engine, got all the mounts on and it sits perfect without any problems. We got the engine in and test fitted for the first time, next up is running the intercooler lines and getting all the little stuff done like coolent hoses, vacuum lines, putting the wiring harness and PCM in. Getting closer to the first start This is the bracket we fabbed up to reposition the slave for clearance for the headers
oh dont worry theres no way that i would use those stock manifolds with this built motor. I have decided to sell the pacesetters and get a set of ZZPs 304 Stainless headers. Thats why those stock manifolds are not painted. They were just on there because we bolted the lift brackets onto the motor to move it around.
use the pacesetters. weld the y. use a vband to connect the exhaust. you're done. i think the pacesetters give the most gain of the headers right now. them or the tog extreme's. which are a lot more. you'll love them.
I sold the pacesetters and purchased one of the first sets of ZZPs new 304 stainless 2 peice headers. They are top notch and i cant wait to install them, i did a full write-up on them here in TD&Q also. More updates are coming soon, next is running the intercooler lines and mounting the new frozen boost heat exchanger.
[This message has been edited by daniel87fierogt (edited 09-17-2008).]
Those fuel rails were done by a guy here on the forum. I dont know if he still does them but they connect right up to the stock fuel lines, they have the 5/16 and 3/8 saginaw fittings on the end of the rail so that it connects right up just like the stock 2.8 did.
Awesome build man! Looks very similar to mine. I pray and pray and pray that your Getrag holds up for a bit! If you plan on drag racing in any way, it's going to be real tough making it last without toasting the case. If it's a show car and just mess around car it may last a while, but you know the confidence most people have in the gear ratios and just overall stability with that tranny. I tried using it once and it grenaded the case in less than 4 passes and I was running mid 13's! LOL.
------------------ 1 of 2: Graphite Grey Pearl 87 GT 5 spd: 2.8L (Best 1/4 mile: 15.57@87mph, 2.0 60ft) 2 of 2: Ferrari Red 88 Formula/4T65EHD: 97 GTP Motor (Best 1/4 mile: 12.0@118mph, 1.89 60ft w/True Street Radial Tires not Drag Radials!)
Amir, Thanks for the complements on it. Your notchie has always been one of my favorites and the motor i like too I remember about your getrag failure on the forum a long time ago. I dont plan to take it to the dragstrip but who knows, i am going to dyno it though for sure. As soon as I grenade this getrag i am swapping in a built 4t65HD from Dave at Triple Edge performance so thats already been planned but im going to not abuse this getrag so i can atleast get a few miles out of it. There will be lots of videos also so no worries there. Thanks everyone for the support, it keeps me motivated and makes me want to drive it that much more.
I actually almost did go the turbo route, i almost pulled the trigger on a new ball bearing T70 the other day. But then i really like twin screws also. I am waiting to see what wbodystore comes out and if i dont like wbodystores twin screw then the turbo is going on. I am maxing this M90 out on my setup just as you were with your setup.
