They are not dangerous as you may think get them from these guys , the cheaper ones are not made from a solid block of 6061 aluminum but cast metal.The reason why I use these guys I have their spacers on my Chevy dually converting from 5 to 8 lugs going on 5 years with no problems and I use it for work hauling a 6 car carrier and carrying loads too.
Accidents can happen and wheels come off regular hubs as they can with adapters so it is not like like it happens every day.
Porsche used spacers on all their flaired 911's (930, 935, etc). They handle it fine. Archie's uses them too without any issues. I am running just a little over 300hp at the wheels so I feel all will be OK.
I worked on the car a little tonight. More getting frustrated than accomplishing anything. I did however get the last 2 fuel injectors installed. Now it should just be a matter or rewiring the computer from OBD1 to OBD1.5 (94-95).
Tried repinning the ECM to no avail. Can't seem to get the pins out.
BUT, I love my spacers too, but these look dangerous for the shear lateral force on the spacers. They are so offsprung with what looks like 6" on the rear end.
Please explain how this will work without putting to much shear force on those? I may be wrong.
Good Guess - 3.00" on each side. Actually 2 1.5" spacers on each side allowing the use of shorter grade 8 lug bolts. Less prone to snapping. If you use spacers or custom wheels it still changes the force and strain on the bearings, axles, etc. I was forced to use spacers due to budgetary restraints. The 930 utilized similar spacers (3.00" each side) with long bolts and it held up ok.
Sorry it has been so long everyone. My father has been ill and I was needed to help.
I worked on War Hammer tonight. My arm gives out after barely an hour. I did, however, get the fiberglassed smoothed on the passenger side rear fender cap. It is ready for filler now . I am here all week so I hope to get all the fiberglass prepped and ready for primer.
It is ambitious but I think accomplishable. It does depend on the arm though. (For those that do not know I received 140 amps to my left arm that burned the insulation off the median nerve. It causes a tremendous amount of pain.)
I promise I will post more pics as things progress.
BTW, if anyone needs any paint work of pinstriping done I am your man.
No new pictures but basically just sanding and fiberglassing and more sanding. Anyone that does it understands it. It is getting close to puttying. Probably next week.
Today touched up the few serious air pockets I have found with more glass and I gave the front bumper darts their first layer. It is hard sometimes not to just sit and remember how far the car has come and that I have done most of it. Without Richard (Whadeduck) though it would never have gotten this far.
Tomorrow I will put the car on jack stands for 2 reasons: 1) To prepare the car for dis-assembly for paint and 2) to change the rear spark plugs. Also the car sits so low it will help me work on the rockers in a little more comfort.
Just more sanding and glassing. I have the front darts glassed in on the first layer at least. The plan this weekend is to do some work on the bumper. It is the part that lined up the least with everything. After I get the exterior finished I need to start on the doors. Power windows, door locks, and firebird door panels. The seats will be fitted soon as well.
Maybe in a month or two she will be on the way to the paint booth. Charcoal grey metallic or flat black with orange trim.
For all that read this I am considering bolting the aftermarket seat rails straight to the floor. Would you consider this to be safe? I will use grade 8 hardware. I never want the rust monster to creep in because of this though.
The reason for mounting them in this fashion is later I will probably be chopping the top. If I reused the factory rails the seat would not fit when this is completed. Also I never did like the canted inward look of the factory mounting.
Just posting something that doesn't involve sanding or 'glassing. Rivnuts!
Here are a couple of pics of how I am mounting my back bumper cover. I replaced the plastic rivet things that I hate (haven't found anyone that likes 'em) with Rivnuts. The actual process only took about half an hour. This will make ti so much easier to put on and take off the rear bumper repeatedly.
Also as you can see the rear bumper is filthy and has some surface corrosion starting so I am taking it off and repainting it with a zinc primer and satin topcoat.
Here is today's progress on the bumper (not the cover).
What I started with.
Let the sanding begin!
I should have it under primer tomorrow. First it will get a couple of coats of a zinc primer. Why zinc primer? Because rust will not creep on zinc. Second it will get a couple of coats of Upol 2 part primer.
That will get it ready for a top coat on Wednesday if the weather holds.
Ok. For some reason the Sprint to Yahoo mail lag has been huge but some pictures finally came through.
First some with the GREEN zinc rich, self etching primer. I used this because rust doesn't creep on zinc. I acquired it years ago for a 280z project. Platicote.
And now for some pictures of the grey primer. It is a 2 part urethane primer that is like a spray putty. It can be applied dierectly over bare metal. It goes on with a little bit of a texture but does it ever sand smooth. It is designed to fill in small imperfections that you missed like sanding scratches, rust pits, etc. The stuff is fantastic. U-pol 20:25 is the model number. I purchased it at my local FinishMaster store but most other professional suppliers can get it. I think it was about $100.00per gallon.
As soon as I get a break in the weather I will topcoat in satin black with a product I found on eBay, KemFX. 1.5 gallons for $150.00 delivered. If it works out this will be the initial color for War Hammer.
OK. Sorry it took a few days to get pictures of the finished bumper installed. l think it made an improvement in both looks and, more importantly, the longevity of the part. I realize to many of you this is overkill but I was always taught that anything worth doing is worth doing well.
OK. The blessing and curse of doing just about everything to a car is that you can jump around to avoid boredom. So in the midst of all this bodywork I decided to start working on the power door locks to alleviate the boredom of fiberglass-sand-fiberglass-sand.
Here is a bracket I fabbed up using a little angle. All I used was a grinder so it isn't perfect but not too bad.