The assembled long-block engine is painted and on the cradle.
Here it is with the timing cover, harmonic balancer and water pump installed.
My machine shop matched the old ruined harmonic balancer with one from a Chevy truck 6-cylinder engine.
All that was required was slight boring to fit the crank and cutting of a new timing mark.
We did a test fit of the cradle and that's when we confirmed that something was not sitting right with the way the engine/transmission was mounted.
We had "pushed" the engine to get the dogbone bolted up, but the Edelbrock 4-bbl manifold did not fit between the head and trunk firewall.
There was LOTS of head scratching trying to figure this one out.
Only after checking things over and over again, we discovered that mounting the transmission on stock Fiero mounts tilted the powertrain back,
because the front transmission mount is too high and needed modification. I'd never seen this mentioned anywhere before, but then the V6
engines aren't as close to the trunk firewall so people likely haven't noticed.
It's covered in earlier posts above and in a thread here: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...110502-2-082950.html
When I bought this car, Chester said it "only needed" a custom mounting block for a hi-torque starter because nobody made one to fit the SD4.
Actually, Tilton has a high-torque starter to fit the SD4 and has it listed on their website. I had it in my hands before the car arrived!!
But it was immediately obvious that the car needed more than a new starter, battery, oil change, coolant and fresh fuel to get the thing running.
I then found a Tilton starter with a butchered mounting block that they'd been trying to fit, in the Indy's trunk!
The problem wasn't lack of a suitable starter, but the way the solenoid is "clocked" when the Tilton starter is installed.
The starter only fits this way because the offset gearing doesn't permit clocking it to get the solenoid on top - the motor hits the block.
The solenoid clashes with the header's primary pipe from cylinder #4 because of the way the it is tilted outward.
Rather than try to modify the way the starter mounted to the engine (as Chester had tried), it was necessary to change the header
- either to a different one, or modify the one we have. Finding new headers of any type for the Fiero Duke was impossible, so I decided to modify the old header.
The old exhaust is shown in detail here: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/095615.html
You can see that the while header's primary pipe from cylinder #4 would clear the stock starter with solenoid directly on top, it would now clash with the Tilton starter's solenoid.
The "Competition" Hooker header was a 4-into1 long primary tube design.
It wasn't especially suited to the street because of the way it ran under the cradle and reduced road clearance
- a liability if the car is lowered. You also can't install a rear sway bar because of it.
I decided on a compromise and modify it into a 4-into1 "shorty" design header.
We cut back the tubes to change the location of the collector, and changed the routing of the primary pipe from
cylinder #4 to clear the starter. After modification and the final welding, the entire header was ceramic coated.
A ceramic coated exhaust heat shield was also installed. It shields the water pump and A/C compressor from exhaust heat at the front of the engine,
and protects the wiring and starter to some degree on the transmission end. The 3" exhaust runs under the cradle and just clears the rear sway bar below it.
On the other side of the engine I installed an Paul Vanderley designed Edelbrock Victor Jr 4-bbl aluminum manifold.
The SD4 head had already been ported, so both the intake gasket and intake manifold were ported to match the head.
Prior to installation, the manifold was clear powder coated to protect it and keep it looking good. It is topped with a polished Edelbrock AVS 4-bbl carburetor.
An ATI polished aluminum carb bonnet will be directing air into the carburetor.
This item is originally intended for use in supercharged or turbocharged blow-through carburetor applications.
As it happens, it matches the new polished Edelbrock valve cover topping the engine perfectly.
The ONLY valve cover gasket you want to use on the Duke is Felpro PN FEL-VS50179T - especially with this Edelbrock valve cover.
Don't use the cork or cork/rubber ones as they always tend to leak.
This rubber/steel gasket has raised edges to seal properly and comes with all the hardware needed for installation.
SD4 PONTIAC valve cover (Edelbrock) GM PN 10031327
Edelbrock/GM 4-bbl manifold GM PN 10038470
Fel-Pro intake gasket (cut to fit) PN FPP-12381
Edelbrock Thunder AVS carb PN 1803
Fel-Pro valve cover gasket PN FEL-VS50179T
Fel-Pro oil pan gasket PN FEL-1813
Tilton starter PN 54-10011
Stant 180* thermostat PN 13818, PN 45818 (Premium)
OR MotoRad PN 211-180, PN 7211-180 (Fail safe)
The distributor I decided to use was a coil-in-cap HEI design with centrifugal and adjustable vacuum advance
as this would be the best and simplest solution and because of the great number of performance items available.
I'm using an MSD distributor module and MSD coil with it. Has a Crower bronze drive gear.
The distributor's centrifugal advance was tailored to bring in 38* by 2800rpm and limited to 52* total with vacuum advance.
Magnecor plug wires send the charge to Autolite spark plugs. DEI boots protect the plugs and boots from the heat of the headers.
Crower bronze distributor drive gear PN 76063 (.500" shaft)
Magnecor wire kit PN 49143 (universal cut-to-fit)
DEI Protect-A-Boots (heat protection) PN 010522 (set/8)
Spark Plugs - Autolite 4062
At the front of the engine, it was now possible to use the proper dogbone/alternator bracket and dogbone.
The clunky old alternator was tossed in favor of the newer smaller CS design used on the 88 Fieros.
Braided lines drain oil from connections on the intake manifold to inlet ports in the Moroso PN 2035 oil pan.
This is now spotless and looking VERY different from the engine that came out of this Indy.
Refresh your memory: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/095615.html
A new exhaust was built, header to tips. I used a Flowtech Afterburner cross-flow muffler designed for the Camaro.
The dolly is pushing up on the exhaust pipe which is why it looks like the muffler is hanging crooked in this picture.
Fel-Pro SD4 header gasket PN FPP-1441
Flowtech Afterburner muffler PN 50363FLT
Hooker resonator tips PN 21430HKR
In the meantime, I also got the engine bay ready. The old ratty insulation was removed,
everything scrubbed down and paint touched up as needed, before new OEM looking insulation went in.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 12-11-2019).]