Old wiring harness: New harness: New harness ends that need to be spliced to 91'-93' ends: The two: Mocked up front engine mount: Front mount welded: Dodge mount set in place: Rear engine mount: New massive mount that connects the front, middle, and rear mounts to the engine with 6 bolts: Whole cradle as it sits now: Stupid cut off wheel: Removed the strut tower dog bone mount. It isnt really structural since it is not on the other side so I am not too concerned. I will be adding a strut tower brace though:
Next of the to do list is to finish some painting, mount the engine/trans, and tackle the wiring.
Next year: Full interior (need carpet, headliner, build dash, guages) New battery and front mount box Run all coolant lines Walbro fuel pump Mount fuel tank Run fuel lines Front brake conversion Run brake lines (have) Custom headlights Mount front bumper (have) Build rear bumper Front lowering springs Make sure everything works! Mount body panels Drive car?
And once everything works (I hope) add a T4 turbo!! 350hp is the ultimate goal....
Mike
[This message has been edited by NYRED85GT (edited 10-25-2007).]
Thanks! The two mounts I welded onto the cradle are not too thick- I wish I had some thicker steel on hand. BUT since they are not acting independently (there are 2 and not just 1) I am not too concerned. I don't need a dog bone mount since the trans has 2 poly mounts and the engine has 1 poly and 2 rubber. The girdle will keep the block from having excessive stress on each individual mounting point since they are all tied together and loads are better shared. Basically the three engine mounts welded together to make a single mount absorbs some of the stress and as the front engine mount is pulled up, the rear is pushed down to share forces equally. I tend to over build things than have to re-do it later when it breaks....
Thanks! The two mounts I welded onto the cradle are not too thick- I wish I had some thicker steel on hand. BUT since they are not acting independently (there are 2 and not just 1) I am not too concerned. I don't need a dog bone mount since the trans has 2 poly mounts and the engine has 1 poly and 2 rubber. The girdle will keep the block from having excessive stress on each individual mounting point since they are all tied together and loads are better shared. Basically the three engine mounts welded together to make a single mount absorbs some of the stress and as the front engine mount is pulled up, the rear is pushed down to share forces equally. I tend to over build things than have to re-do it later when it breaks....
Mike
As strong as it is I would not count out a dog bone ...that motor can really move
I will mount a camera and post a video of when ever I get this thing running to see what kind of movement I get. I left the trunk side mount intact just in case I still needed it and cut out what was in my way of the timing cover. I would just have to add a small re-inforcing strap to the strut tower (like the origional) to keep the trunk wall from bending.
Viewing your progress has definitely gotten me motivated to get started on my rust issue project. I began taking my car apart about two weeks ago. The rust is not as bad as I contemplated.
I would post some pics, but I don't want to hijack your thread. Watching you do your thing has given me confidence that I can do it too. Keep up the good work and interesting thread, it is appreciated by at least one PFF member.
------------------ You'll have to excuse me, I have FIERO in the brain.
About time you started having "fun" with your car! Start your own thread and PLEASE post pictures. Most of the restoration threads I have seen are by guys who have much more knowledge than the average person and have huge shops with lifts and all that fancy stuff. I would like to see more threads by "average" people. A very easy way to learn is to see what others have done.
To everyone make sure you always: Wear safety glasses ( I had to buy a new pair because they were dinged up from flying metal wires and debris) and a welding helmet. Use hearing protection when cutting, grinding, etc. If your ears are ringing that means you already have sustained hearing damage! Wear gloves when welding, cutting, and grinding. I need to post a pic of how uttery mangled mine are from this project.
Total injuries suffered so far: The welder has given me 2nd+ degree burns on my left forearm and left calf along with thousands of little splatter burns. The cut off wheel has gone into my left index finger 5 times, left thumb (see pics above) once, and through my jeans and into the right thigh once. The wire wheel attachment has gone through the skin (looking at the meat) on my left index finger 2 times and once on the right knee. I have started my pants on fire once from a huge weld splatter that gave me 3rd degree burns on my right calf. Think I had a fire on my head once (good thing I keep a short haircut).
Mike
[This message has been edited by NYRED85GT (edited 10-27-2007).]
Great info/work! I'm planning the same stuff for my 84 only it will be a 3800sc. I have a good amount of rust to fix on it too. Looking forward to seeing more!
Yep I am using either .030 or .035" fluxcore. I would use gas, but I would need to buy the rig for my welder and fill bottles all the time. I would spend a small fortune hehe.
Great job and thanks for all the great info, or should I say "Greetings from the rust bowl" I'm curious are you grinding your sheet metal welds before painting? I know most of them will never be seen but just wondered. Again, great restoration.
Some areas had to get ground down, due to my sometimes bad welding. But mostly just zap it, wire brush the heck out of it, 2+ coats of primer, and 3+ coats of paint. The round wire brush screws onto a hand held angle grinder ($25 grinder at Lowes and $5 round screw on wire brush at Harbor Freight). Just PLEASE wear gloves because every so often it will catch on the piece your are working on and leap at your hand. And without a glove (even with one sometimes) it WILL go through all the skin in a mear moment. I can show you 5 such scars hehe....
Drove out to the junk yard today and pulled the front exhaust manifold off of the only 96-97 3.4 DOHC I could find. Its alittle rusty but will clean up nice. I just have to get those darn AIR tubes off them tomorrow- letting them soak now. There is a 91-95 Monta Carlo too. And 10 Fiero's (mostly 2M4's) in various states of disrepair. Poor cars.....
Looking good man. I'll have to check it out sometime. The guns too! Just curious what junkyard? Not that I need any parts right now, but you never know.
Thanks! The two mounts I welded onto the cradle are not too thick- I wish I had some thicker steel on hand. BUT since they are not acting independently (there are 2 and not just 1) I am not too concerned. I don't need a dog bone mount since the trans has 2 poly mounts and the engine has 1 poly and 2 rubber. The girdle will keep the block from having excessive stress on each individual mounting point since they are all tied together and loads are better shared. Basically the three engine mounts welded together to make a single mount absorbs some of the stress and as the front engine mount is pulled up, the rear is pushed down to share forces equally. I tend to over build things than have to re-do it later when it breaks....
Mike
Yes, you do need a dogbone. The motor will move poly or not... and when the poly holds the motor will crack and fracture the front "U" mount. I was forced against my discretion to drive my DOHC without a right side top brace or dogbone. I've been working on my car for the past 2 months trying to fix all of the broken pieces.. It will never leave home again without both lower and top bracing on the right side. The dodge mounts will allow for enough play to fracture the front mount. Of course you could baby it all day long, but I know that your not the type of person to do a halfway job. Do it right. Brace the top.
You also need to weld a piece between your strut tower and trunk wall if you install a dogbone. The trunk wall will separate from the strut towers if not triangulated.
Overall, you have a very nice car coming together. Good luck and try not to cut any more fingers.. *Looks down at battered hands*
Emc209i- Do you have a picture of what you are running for a dogbone mount? I saw a few others and they look to be not too strong and/or not enough attachment points on the block(might crack). I will do some more brain storming when I get the engine back on the cradle and in the car.
Great work, way to save another fiero from rust-ville.
This is what should be happening to ALL fieros instead of being shipped off to the big junkyard in the sky, and this is why I can't buy a parts car, because I'd end up with a second fixed up car, and still no parts for my 85 GT.
July 24 - 27, 2008 Detroit Marriott at Centerpoint, 3600 Centerpoint Parkway, Pontiac MI You can book your room online, using the group code "fiefiea" (click on link above) or call the Hotel directly at 248-253-9800 and as for the "Fiero Anniversary" Rate the rate for this event is $109+tax per night.
Event Highlights
Track Day with Golden Gate Fieros Tour of GM World Headquarters Car Show with special guests, DJ & Door Prizes GM Prototype Display "Fiero Reunion" Banquet Professional Pictures of your Fiero with the 25th Logo by Events Photo's LLC GM Heritage Center Tour Go Carting with the Heartland Fiero Club Car Wash on site Much, Much, More!!! The Fiero 25th Show is limited to the first 450 Cars, so register EARLY! Deadline for Pre-regsitration is July 10, 2008
Removed the strut tower dog bone mount. It isnt really structural since it is not on the other side so I am not too concerned. I will be adding a strut tower brace though:
It is structural. GM SHOULD have put one on the other side. The strut tower reinforcing bar is not tied very well to the strut towers. There are only a few spot welds. That dogbone bracket braces the strut tower to the bar that goes accross the top of the trunk wall. On Fieros with painted engine bays I see cracks forming between the cross bar and the strut tower due to the chassis flexing... especially on one's where the dogbone bracket was removed. I highly recommend welding some plates between the strut tower and the cross beam to keep your chassis from flexing. There was a thread about this, I think it's in the archives now. I'll post a link here if I can find it.
[This message has been edited by Steven Snyder (edited 02-11-2008).]
Eh nothing to write about really. I am waiting for the weather to get warmer to start working on it again. Too bloody cold hehe...
Parts collected: Walbro fuel pump New headliner brush on bed liner to cover the interior and engine bay (no carpet) New air horn 1" lowering ball joints 84' front springs glass sail panels Poly dog bone bushings to make my own dog bone mount 4 point seat belts Racing seats
I have to start working on the wiring harness again. I traced the wires and cut apart 2 partial ones to splice into a good one. Run fuel lines, brake lines, coolant lines (have all) Install sunroof with new gasket (have)
Need: Rims ($800) and rubber ($600) Build fiberglass dash and center console Buy a Dietmer front bumper if he start selling the new piece Figure out what I want for a rear bumper Upgrade front brakes with Grand Am calipers Alt. Starter Battery Custom up front battery tray Battery cables Brake booster ($100) Buy guages ($500) [gas,battery, coolant temp, boost(next years project), speedo, tach, fuel pressure, oil pressure, air/fuel ratio] Full dual exhaust with 96' manifolds Etc....
Well I had hoped to finish it this year. More like next year <= not happy.
Mike
[This message has been edited by NYRED85GT (edited 03-22-2008).]
Mostly finished with the engine wiring harness. Have to build a box and mount the battery in the front, run cables to the rear, and connect to harness. Finish making the seat brackets and mount them. Paint fuel tank, install fuel tank, and install fuel lines. Install brake lines. Install Flywheel. Those are my goals before the end of the year....
[This message has been edited by NYRED85GT (edited 09-04-2008).]
Awesome build, very inspiring work. Living in a high rust area myself I wish I could weld like that. A lot of people would have gave up on a car THAT rusted. + for you for saving one and a detailed inspiring write up.
Thanks everyone for the positive comments. It has been very difficult to find time to work on my car this year. Moved into an apartment and left the car at my girlfriends mothers house (15 minutes away). So between a promotion at work, trying to spend more time with the girlfriend, and the drive to get to the car it has been rough. I have many pictures that I will have to get some time to post one of these days for an update. I am way over due!
Well life has happened. I kind of stalled out on it and got tired of working on the car. Then started working on it here and there. Winter last year hit, March this year my now ex girlfriend and me split up so my bills just about equaled my income, just finished moving everything I own into a 10'x20' storage unit, moved back with my parents for December, deploying to Afghanistan in early January. Still have to get the Fiero into storage! Running out of time to do it too....
I am about in the same situation on a '88 formula. 3.4 DOHC Motor is out of a '95 gran prix. You doing the harness our getting one made? Can't believe your pretty close to me (upstate N.Y.). build is looking nice!
I'd really like to know what ever became of this thread. I've been trying to get back to work on mine and I have all the pieces, just need to get it going again.
Here are a couple of new pictures of the cradle and cleaned up transmission. Its actually silver colored and not covered in a thick layer of grease and grime!
mmmm
Synthesis: I have to take another movie when I do the front bushings. I was on my last rear bushing when I thought of taking the movie and it turned out crappy.
I am fascinated on how you built those coil-overs!ill pay you if can tell me. where I can order the parts for my Fiero! Please contact me at: kevinsullivan@frontier.com Or, call me at (916) 600-6482. I would SURE appreciate it๐
mmmm
