1. Under the plenum, that hose that connects to the lower intake.. how exactly does it attatch ? im really confused at this one..
2. i have the coil.. waiting till i get some bolts to finish up exhaust (well at least to y-pipe)
3. As soon as we return from Daytona, its full blown fix Betty month... ill need all the energy, luck (and any last parts you guys can spare!) because Betty has now turned into a NEED because i start Mechanics college/school June 25. !! YAY!
OK minor minor update, but some q's as well.. 1. Under the plenum, that hose that connects to the lower intake.. how exactly does it attatch ? im really confused at this one..
theres a tube that looks like an "L" - goes from that lower intake part to the bottom of the throttle body, maybe someone has a pic to show?
Hey Bobadoo just make sure that there's an o ring in the hole in the throttle body before you install that tube. The best way I've found to install it is to push it into the rubber hose on the lower intake and then guide it into the tb as you push the tb up to the plenum. It may help to lube it slightly. Then install the tb bolts. Have fun.......aint engine assembly a hoot??
Jerry, you NEED to get this wiring harness off of the EGR tube! On the 85-87 V6 engines, this tube normally has an insulating "blanket" around it, as very hot exhaust gases pass through it. The 88 tube is also insulated, but is done differently than the earlier engines. If you leave that harness where it is, you'll melt through it in no time. You can either tie up the harness so it isn't anywhere near the tube, or check with a local auto parts store, and see if they have some kind of insulation you can put on the tube. Either way...you need to do something with this before it causes you all kinds of headaches...
Jerry, you NEED to get this wiring harness off of the EGR tube! On the 85-87 V6 engines, this tube normally has an insulating "blanket" around it, as very hot exhaust gases pass through it. The 88 tube is also insulated, but is done differently than the earlier engines. If you leave that harness where it is, you'll melt through it in no time. You can either tie up the harness so it isn't anywhere near the tube, or check with a local auto parts store, and see if they have some kind of insulation you can put on the tube. Either way...you need to do something with this before it causes you all kinds of headaches...
ah thanks for pointing that out, i will see what i can come up with! (most likely some type of insulation)
are you sure that middle plenum is orientated correctly? that last pic looks off to me, due to that boss you show.
MAN i hope so... i dont feel like going that far backwards.but there is a hole like that on both sides, the other side has some line bolted to it (i forgot which one..)
Originally posted by BobadooFunk: ah thanks for pointing that out, i will see what i can come up with! (most likely some type of insulation)
There's heat tape already wrapped around the wiring harness, as you can see...but it won't be enough to insulate it from the heat in the EGR tube. Would sure hate to see you go to all of that work and get it started, only to have the harness melt through shortly afterwards. Maybe someone on the list has an old, cracked EGR tube that still has the insulation blanket on it that could send it to you? I'd send you mine, but I put it on the braided stainless line that I replaced the original EGR tube with.
[This message has been edited by litespd (edited 03-29-2007).]
ok ... so... we tried to try to start it and it was weird, no engine turning over.. no rotation, just a weird buzz.. but only sometimes, not every time.. sounded like it was coming from starter, but not sure.. and its not ded battery.. i had it charged, and we had it boostered to another car, and its a newer optima... any help??
starter solenoid or cables. The solenoid has an electromagnet (winding) inn it that pushes a flat washer on a plunger across a couple contacts; the plunger can stick some (no audible 'click' when the key is turned) or the contacts could be crusty (audible 'click' but not much else afterward). Or the cables might not be getting good power to the starter assembly ('click' then 'buzz' like you get with a very low battery).
Try tapping on the solenoid; it might just be a little crudded up inside.
Hope this helps narrow the trouble down.
[This message has been edited by D B Cooper (edited 04-02-2007).]
also you can test the starter operation by shorting the two large wires on the solenoid togerther if you can reach the contacts from the topside. I wouldn't recommend doing that from under the car though for obvious reasons. ***caution - make sure car isn't in gear or it will roll***
I got the same set as you. What I did was get a 2 inch hole saw and cut the center out of the blue poly bushings. You will need to do this to center the spring to your strut plate, if not the noise will drive you insaine. Trust me when I say you will get half a block before you turn around and tear the thing apart to make this modification.
I am SOOOO jealous! I'm finally going back to work so now I can have the money but not the time to do this mod. :P
Lotsa pictures of this conversion when you get to it please.
------------------ Kendall (Icelander) Whitlatch '85 Fiero 2M4 - 5spd Isuzu '67 LeMans/GTO clone 6.5 litre TH400 All the rest aren't Pontiacs, so what does it matter?
Originally posted by D B Cooper: Or the cables might not be getting good power to the starter assembly ('click' then 'buzz' like you get with a very low battery).
thats what it sounds like... ill check power, grounds, and connections tomorrow early before work.. and as for those coil over things, yea they look sweet (i need new stuff too!) i have no idea on installation yet, but im gonna tey on my extra set of struts..
Originally posted by BobadooFunk: thats what it sounds like... ill check power, grounds, and connections tomorrow early before work.. and as for those coil over things, yea they look sweet (i need new stuff too!) i have no idea on installation yet, but im gonna tey on my extra set of struts..
If you need help let me know, I might be able to make a trip out there on a weekend sometime. Since I have a V6 we can compare the two side by side to help you along. The coil over swap is an easy one, but you WILL NEED an alignment when you are done, no way around it so keep that in mind.
car needs an alignment anyways since i have to replace the struts, and anyone who could make a trip out here to help me would be great! im USUALLY off on sundays.. anytime after easter is good (the sooner the better!!) i NEED this girl running ASAP!!! school in june!!
ugh... today... not a good work day. i found out the starter wasnt even wired up (explains some other problems i had earlier with wiring) BUT! it didnt change anything.. car still doesnt turn over, and makes same click sound when i try to start it.. so what comes before the starter?
i also broke one of the bolts on the starter was just turning the 8mm one, and then i felt it... i really dont want to have to put a new starter on it...
another really making me mad thing.. the passenger side door, WONT OPEN!! (no its not locked.) great....
so right now i need someone to help me... anyone near Pittsburgh got some time next week?
i also broke one of the bolts on the starter was just turning the 8mm one, and then i felt it... i really dont want to have to put a new starter on it...
Make sure the battery is fully charged. If it is, rap on the starter solenoid with a hammer while Alex turns the car over. I can't remember the 8mm bolt was for. If you broke it off on the inside thats not good. It's not going to get a good connection.
Josh
------------------ "I reject your reality, and substitute my own." Adam Savage
If it is a manual trans, make sure the clutch safety switch is properly working or run a jump wire through it to make sure it is not at fault. Good luck! Hmmmm.....After reviewing page 1 I see an auto trans. Like said before, go over all connections thoroughly.
[This message has been edited by FormulaGT (edited 04-03-2007).]
If you get full dash lights, "click" of fuel pump, and zero starter....on an auto, check the plug on the transmission where the kill switch is to prevent starting in gear. I believe the two relevant wires are yellow from wall and purple (red originally?) from the starter. My automatic did as described when the connector got dirty and lost connection. I simply dis-connected, cleaned and attached connector to start mine.
I often had to put the old '84 in neutral, pop the decklid, and reach down there and short across the solenoid to get it to pop Beat the heck out of push starting it every time it acted up... I kept an extra copy of the door key in the trunk for that purpose. I can't count the number of times I had the starter off that car to mess with that solenoid.
Looking back I think I had a weak ground issue causing the key switch to not get enough 'umph' to the small pin on the solenoid to actuate it right. (also had weak power supply in the dash, and engine wanted to stumble when turning on headlights or heater motor etc... good battery, good alternator...) But I didn't realize that until years later.
What the heck do these little parts go to? I don't remember these when I started taking the top of my engine apart! Does he have something that I should have??? Where do I get that little tool once I figure out where those little parts go?!!!
Please put some reference objects in your post so that those of us who find something we know little about will have a better idea where to imagine them going!
[This message has been edited by F-I-E-R-O (edited 04-05-2007).]
Andrew, this is how i think they will go, they were a gift from a fellow forum member for my b-day
ok well i ordered 2 new struts+shocks, wipers, and a new part of the starter (just that solinoid part) from rockauto so we'll see what i can do once that arrives... (then i can try to do the coil overs as well...)
i also received the OPSU connector!!! thanks!!! its snowing out right now we are going to Buffalo for easter to visit family, but i will be working as hard as i can when we return! but untill we leave im bringing interior peices in the house to restore/paint them
[This message has been edited by BobadooFunk (edited 04-05-2007).]
this is what i did tonight (yea not much, but mainly a test peice) i still need the other 2 light covers that go on there... a new center console, and a radio surround bezel.. (as long as bezel is in one peice its kool, im gonna get something to put on it..) I love the way it turned out, looks like it came that way! gonna do alot of the rest of the interior like that, i hate greys/browns..
as for the starter thing.. like i said i bought a new peice, i also noticed 2 grounds near there arent connected, i haveta look through my pics to see if i can find where they go, but maybe thatll help...?
These came in while i was away for easter! (except the grey brackets on the left, i picked those up from my grandfathers house where ive had em for years with my strut tower bar..)
sweet. now tomorrow hopefully it isnt too cold and i can go do something!!! but for now im off to work..
[This message has been edited by BobadooFunk (edited 04-10-2007).]
we'll find out tomorrow ill start working on it round 11am-4, then once i get back from filling out finnancial stuff for college, ill get right back to work
old starter is out, gonna pick up new bolts for the new one tomorrow , connect those 2 grounds, then try to start her again!! if it doesnt work.. off to tech with me
I thought you meant you had a stripped 15mm head on one of the bolts holding the starter itself in place... good to see it was just the little guys holding the solenoid on there. It never occurred to me to pull the solenoid off while leaving the starter in place lol.
... does anyone atleast know which goes where?
