New here and so appreciative that forums like this exist! If this is the wrong sub-forum for this post, feel free to move/delete.
Looking at a picking up an '86 Fiero with a 328GTS replica fibreglass kit on it. Tons of questions of course, but here are a few:
- Anyone with experience with these replicas and can point to links with more info? I've been through the ones I can find on this forum, but if there are more would be great. - Main things to look out for in terms of engine/body/electrical to make sure it's not a lemon - I've seen there are a few versions of the '86 - GTS, SE, Isuzu manual, Getrag manual, etc. Any preferred combo and pitfalls of the other versions?
I've had about 20 cars in my life, Honda, BMW, Mitsubishi, Toyota, Kits, etc. all manual transmission except for most recently a Tesla Model 3 (completely different!) - so I'm not a newbie (but not a pro either)!
I have a tendency to get a bit obsessed with projects, so if this car works out, I'll definitely become a worthy contributor on the forums!
"Kit Cars" can be just body trim/panels to a lot more... No way to tell you more w/o much more data. Use Search to find rust problems etc for Fiero.
In General... Fiero "Plastic" Body doesn't matter when: ● Frame Floor and other metal parts are rotten. Common in places w/ high road salt use in winter or near oceans. Again use search. ● OE V6 showing Low Oil Pressure is Not Normal but Common to V6. Is sign crank and other bearings are iffy/bad. Much check w/ a real mech gauge connected to the engine because Dash gauge often lies. ● If engine/trans have been swapped then can have a lot more issues/problems and dumping it for that reason. ● Brakes can be "upgraded" and often have same and dumped to first "sucker" w/o a clue. If you see "vented" rotors in 84-87 Fiero then have "upgraded" brakes. Vented rotors are Not same Groove/Drilled Rotors but can have them done to them too. Fiero Solid rotors can have Grooved/Drilled/etc but that is "easy" fix when needed. Highlights for one "brake upgrade..." See my Cave, Brake Upgrade ● Even Old OE Brakes can be very expensive to restore and not just Fiero w/ rear brakes w/ known problems. Just 4 rotors w/ front wheel bearings/seals, Better Pads, SAE J1401 hoses eat up money fast.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Originally posted by afeudale: - Main things to look out for in terms of engine/body/electrical to make sure it's not a lemon
Not a lemon? Exactly what kind of reliability do you expect in any car 35 years old? Just go through the steps pointed out here on this forum to find hidden rust in the critical areas and go from there.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Thanks everyone for the replies and feedback - much appreciated
Of course I'm not expecting Honda Civic reliability from a 35 year old car! But also don't want to get stuck with a repair bill costing as much as the car...so trying to do research on common failure points.
Here's some more info and pictures. Any more feedback is welcome.
In the CarFax, it is listed as "Vehicle Declared Total Loss" in 1989 (3 years after first purchased). On a newer car that would obviously be a red flag, but 32 years ago?
1. Means this Car was "Totaled" after a wreck and is always a Red Flag that needs more attention before buying. Yes, that's even after 30+ years. Because Many "restored" cars after Totaling have major problems and more so in states w/o requiring Special Inspection to make sure someone didn't cut and weld parts of frame poorly, use stolen parts, etc.
Even Some "pimp ride" shows have problems when they get a Totaled car like find the car was 2 Totals cut in half and splicing "good half's" together very badly. Really did happen... Example 1 short lived show had standard operation was drive to shop by Shop staff often many miles before any work done. In 1 ep, a splice car was so badly done wondered how even got there w/o wrecking and hurting/killing them. (result? they "junked" it for several reasons and got a another to work on and gave that to owner of the "dead" car.)
2. Kit seems "nice" if you like that stuff but Where are the Head Lights? If under the louvers then Light Output has big problems even ignoring Louvers (and Covers) over HL are Illegal in many places. If you take off the louvers/covers, Same output problem as "Munson HL Upgrade" and some others. Use search. If at or below the "bumper level" then have Light Output problems and this is Illegal in many places because many have Min and Max HL mounting from ground. Even if "legal" locally or just ignored by local police... Dead, Iffy or Illegal Lighting on a vehicle can be a Ticket Manget by itself in another town county or state.
Note: If have Fog/Driving lights and/or DRL then have rules in most places too. Example: Many places is a Ticket Magnet to have Fog/Driving light On without Low Beam HL On at same time. Other places, that plus restrict to use only in bad weather. Is why there is wiring to interlock fog/drivers w/ low beam HL in my cave. (link in head light page)
2a. If the frame was "stretched" etc to install a Kit then needs to go on a lift and check just how was done and still is OK. Iffy Welding points can fail a weld or near a weld as welding can mess w/ the metal hardness etc near by. IE same/similar issue as buying a Total car. Even if a "show car" or have Special Tags (Antique etc.) that's "rarely driven" can have big problems.
Any used car costing more then a few Hundred $ should go to a shop for inspection on a lift before buying. Even for less $ for people don't want to fix them or use as parts.
Good points about the totalling/restored requirements in different jurisdictions...I would have to check what those rules are here in Ontario.
Those splicing scenarios sound like nightmares!
I think the lights are popups underneath the covers - I would assume they popup same as on the stock fiero, but could be wrong.
I think the frame doesn't need to be stretched for this type of kit, but again, not sure without seeing it in person or on a lift.
Sounds like I need to do a lot more homework...especially seeing in person & on a lift.
Thanks again
quote
Originally posted by theogre:
1. Means this Car was "Totaled" after a wreck and is always a Red Flag that needs more attention before buying. Yes, that's even after 30+ years. Because Many "restored" cars after Totaling have major problems and more so in states w/o requiring Special Inspection to make sure someone didn't cut and weld parts of frame poorly, use stolen parts, etc.
Even Some "pimp ride" shows have problems when they get a Totaled car like find the car was 2 Totals cut in half and splicing "good half's" together very badly. Really did happen... Example 1 short lived show had standard operation was drive to shop by Shop staff often many miles before any work done. In 1 ep, a splice car was so badly done wondered how even got there w/o wrecking and hurting/killing them. (result? they "junked" it for several reasons and got a another to work on and gave that to owner of the "dead" car.)
2. Kit seems "nice" if you like that stuff but Where are the Head Lights? If under the louvers then Light Output has big problems even ignoring Louvers (and Covers) over HL are Illegal in many places. If you take off the louvers/covers, Same output problem as "Munson HL Upgrade" and some others. Use search. If at or below the "bumper level" then have Light Output problems and this is Illegal in many places because many have Min and Max HL mounting from ground. Even if "legal" locally or just ignored by local police... Dead, Iffy or Illegal Lighting on a vehicle can be a Ticket Manget by itself in another town county or state.
Note: If have Fog/Driving lights and/or DRL then have rules in most places too. Example: Many places is a Ticket Magnet to have Fog/Driving light On without Low Beam HL On at same time. Other places, that plus restrict to use only in bad weather. Is why there is wiring to interlock fog/drivers w/ low beam HL in my cave. (link in head light page)
2a. If the frame was "stretched" etc to install a Kit then needs to go on a lift and check just how was done and still is OK. Iffy Welding points can fail a weld or near a weld as welding can mess w/ the metal hardness etc near by. IE same/similar issue as buying a Total car. Even if a "show car" or have Special Tags (Antique etc.) that's "rarely driven" can have big problems.
Any used car costing more then a few Hundred $ should go to a shop for inspection on a lift before buying. Even for less $ for people don't want to fix them or use as parts.
"Vehicle Declared Total Loss" in 1989 (3 years after first purchased) is a red flag. The "spliced car" sounds like the most likely way that a total loss car was fixed. If so beware. If not done very carefully welding will change the fatigue stress limit and dimensional integrity of the metal. On a vehicle frame this is critical.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Thanks! Yes, that would make sense. Car was totaled, someone thought to make a kit from it and spliced it with another car before the rebody. Then the fiberglass kit hides most of the splicing work and no one knows.
Saved me from a bad purchase! Thanks!
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
"Vehicle Declared Total Loss" in 1989 (3 years after first purchased) is a red flag. The "spliced car" sounds like the most likely way that a total loss car was fixed. If so beware. If not done very carefully welding will change the fatigue stress limit and dimensional integrity of the metal. On a vehicle frame this is critical.
If you don't mind me asking, what's the asking price for the vehicle?
It "looks" like a quality rebody and you might be able to purchase at a 'substantially' reduced price, then pull the bodywork to a different intact fiero frame.
I think it would be hilarious to take something like this to a track day (frame problems remedied of course)..maybe even an interior swap....... you'd look like a baller out there tracking a 328 GTS...
If you don't mind me asking, what's the asking price for the vehicle?
It "looks" like a quality rebody and you might be able to purchase at a 'substantially' reduced price, then pull the bodywork to a different intact fiero frame.
I think it would be hilarious to take something like this to a track day (frame problems remedied of course)..maybe even an interior swap....... you'd look like a baller out there tracking a 328 GTS...
It is way fun at a track event. I have taken mine to the LGGPR in Garnett Kansas for several years.
Just a thought on the total loss, the car has made it OK for 30 plus years after the loss, no telling why it was totaled. If there are a lot of miles after the total the space frame could be sound,. and I agree the pics look like a nice rebody.
