Pennock's Fiero Forum
  Technical Discussion & Questions
  86 GT Brake Question

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Email This Page to Someone! | Printable Version


next newest topic | next oldest topic
86 GT Brake Question by thejinx13
Started on: 01-13-2021 12:25 AM
Replies: 4 (70 views)
Last post by: thejinx13 on 01-13-2021 02:42 PM
thejinx13
Junior Member
Posts: 10
From: Colorado
Registered: Jan 2021


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-13-2021 12:25 AM Click Here to See the Profile for thejinx13Click Here to Email thejinx13Send a Private Message to thejinx13Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I recently purchased an 86 GT, and to say the brakes were soft would be a huge understatement. I suspect that someone tried to do the rears at some point and messed up the Ebrake auto adjuster. What I read online, that I can find, seems to indicate the excessive pedal travel could be caused by that. I'm not sure I understand though because shouldn't most of the stopping power be coming from the front and not be impacted by the parking brake? Just trying to get an idea on where to start. I initially thought it was the booster but a lot of people seem to be relaying symptoms close to what I am experiencing after rear brake work.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

Chris
IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
Mike in Sydney
Member
Posts: 267
From: Meadow Flat, NSW, Australia
Registered: Sep 2011


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-13-2021 06:28 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike in SydneySend a Private Message to Mike in SydneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Start by bleeding the brakes. Bleed in the following order: LR, RR, RF, LF. If that doesn't raise the pedal, try manually adjusting the rear brakes using the procedure shown in Ogre's Cave. If that doesn't work, you may be looking at replacing or rebuilding the rear calipers. BTW, with a 34-year old car, you should think about changing out the flexible brake lines. Some people replace with braided stainless lines but unless you are racing or have a high horse power engine, I think that braided lines are overkill.

------------------
Mike in Sydney

[This message has been edited by Mike in Sydney (edited 01-13-2021).]

IP: Logged
Mike in Sydney
Member
Posts: 267
From: Meadow Flat, NSW, Australia
Registered: Sep 2011


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-13-2021 06:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mike in SydneySend a Private Message to Mike in SydneyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Mike in Sydney

267 posts
Member since Sep 2011
Start by bleeding the brakes. Bleed in the following order: LR, RR, RF, LF. If that doesn't raise the pedal, try manually adjusting the rear brakes using the procedure shown in Ogre's Cave. If that doesn't work, you may be looking at replacing or rebuilding the rear caliber. BTW, with a 34-year old car, you should think about changing out the flexible brake lines. Some people replace with braided stainless lines but unless you are racing or have a high horse power engine, I think that braided lines are overkill.

------------------
Mike in Sydney

IP: Logged
theogre
Member
Posts: 29575
From: USA
Registered: Mar 99


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 552
Rate this member

Report this Post01-13-2021 11:01 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Booster and vacuum Will Not cause Low Pedal and related problems. Only thing they cause is Hard to Very Hard Pedal when have vacuum problems or booster is dying/dead. Push pedal a few times w/ engine off and that is best example of "dead" booster.

Only time a booster can cause low pedal or brake hydro problems is when some moron replace it and never bother to adjust the output push rod that hits the MC. If has OE booster then won't happen. (Many replacement are correct out of box but not all and need tools to adjust. low pedal means output rod is short. hydro then rod is too long and MC can't return to rest.)

Manually adjust P-brake might help short term but if does rears are "dead" and need replacement and sooner then later.
See my Cave, Rear Brakes and rest of brake section.

Hoses...
SS Hoses are Hype BS product even if labeled as "DOT Approved." As soon as you add support for middle of them the DOT cert and often Warranty is Void but most buyers won't bother w/ either issue until have problems.
see rubber brake lines vs stainless steel http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/129208.html

Get New OE Type hoses meets SAE J1401 often sold as "pro grade" hoses. This Hose "Rubber" is labeled as DOT106 and SAE J1401.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 01-13-2021).]

IP: Logged
thejinx13
Junior Member
Posts: 10
From: Colorado
Registered: Jan 2021


Feedback score: N/A
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post01-13-2021 02:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for thejinx13Click Here to Email thejinx13Send a Private Message to thejinx13Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That was super helpful, thank you. This forum is great.
IP: Logged

next newest topic | next oldest topic

All times are ET (US)

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Back To Main Page

Advertizing on PFF | Fiero Parts Vendors
PFF Merchandise | Fiero Gallery | Ogre's Cave
Real-Time Chat | Fiero Related Auctions on eBay



Copyright (c) 1999, C. Pennock