HAPPY NEW YEAR .... EVERYONE

Look like I have a gasket leak on my headers....

How hard is it to remove the front header?

I can't seem to find any threads on the subject.

Thank you..

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JM

First you should check if all the exhaust bolts are torqued in before continuing.

I am literally about to finish that job. except in my case it was a crack in the front header that I had a friend weld up. You want to put your car on jacks high up. I wont go into the specifics but you need to remove or at least move away; the catalytic converter (for me, my exhaust was all welded up so I had to take the entire exhaust off), the ac pump, the ac bracket, the decklid, and the various heatshields around that area. A trick for the bolt near the ac brackets, is to use a 90 degree universal joint swivel attachment.

I probably should've just posted this, but whatever.
http://www.mtritter.org/fie...erohelp/exhaust.html
This is what I used to help me.

Also make sure to get the performance exhaust gasket, you can get that one on the fiero store

This is also a good time to port the headers, which has been proven to give a 8-10 hp increase. There are plenty of write ups on this

[This message has been edited by Xenoblast (edited 01-01-2021).]

quote Originally posted by str8maxn: How hard is it to remove the front header?

Nothing to it. The hard part is drilling out the broken exhaust manifold bolts.

Well Thank you both..

I think I'll tackle this on my own vs. a shop.

quote Originally posted by str8maxn: The Fiero Store sells only genuine Fel-Pro gaskets. I don't see performance gaskets.

Sorry, should have clarified, the fiero store only sells the performance gasket, so yes thats the one to buy. Also while your at it buy the manifold stud kit, which replaces the header bolts.

quote Originally posted by Patrick: Nothing to it. The hard part is drilling out the broken exhaust manifold bolts.

Sad.................but true....

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84/87 NB, 3800SC, E-85, VS Cam, 2.8 Pulley, 4T65E-HD, HP Tuners, AEM Wideband, Regal GS Gauges, S-10 Brake Booster. 1/4 mile -11.85 at 114mph

quote Originally posted by Patrick: Nothing to it. The hard part is drilling out the broken exhaust manifold bolts.

True enough. With this job, patience is a virtue regarding the bolts. There are numerous threads on the exhaust manifold bolts. In general what I've done is soak them thoroughly with PB Blaster several times over days then actually try to tighten them a little before removing. Worked for me twice. Good luck!

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1965 Tempest 400 CID
2018 Chevy Colorado Z71 3.6
2017 BMW X3 3.0 T
2015 BMW 535iX M Sport
2008 G6 GT "Street" Coupe
2005 Buick 3.6 Rendezvous

I replaced mine using this thread
//www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum9/HTML/000016.html
Also get yourself the "S" shaped wrenches--they will help due to limited space, While you are there you might as well port them--you will see why. hopefully all of your bolts are intact--I had some missing the heads before I did the job. Use anti-seize on the replacements, Take your time. The hardest will be the bolt that lives under the A/C bracket--that should be the first you put in--you will put it in the header--then the header through the gasket to the head. you wont be able to use stud on that one. When doing the job the first bolts undone are the Y-Pipe they will also be the last on reconnection. get new bolts they are probably rusty--use anti seize on reinstall.--hope this helps

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Pat Jones

The easiest way I have done the front exhaust manifolds was to take off the trunklid. I put duct tape across the hinges on to the trunk itself and cut with a razor blade so when I put it back on I'm really close to the original alignment. This give you so much more space than trying to do it with the trunklid on. I might have to do it for my 88 Formula but not before I replace the front tranny mount and the dogbone. I am convinced that those two points are what cause the exhaust manifold cracks.

Good luck!