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clutch issues, bleeding issues by Mct2green
Started on: 11-15-2020 05:15 PM
Replies: 2 (43 views)
Last post by: Mct2green on 11-15-2020 07:04 PM
Mct2green
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From: Charleston, South Carolina
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Report this Post11-15-2020 05:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mct2greenClick Here to Email Mct2greenSend a Private Message to Mct2greenEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have a 86 gt that decided not to shift into gear a few nights ago and the clutch pedal seems much softer. It will shift with the engine off. The car is also rolling with the clutch in, like its not fully disengaging the clutch. Sounds like classic master/slave failure. I attempted to gravity bleed but very fluid came out the slave bleeder. I then had a buddy push the clutch to the floor and open the bleeder. Very little fluid is coming out. After doing this process over 15 times, I got maybe 2-3 ounces of fluid to come into the catch can. I did top the fluid, but there isnt much being pushed through the line. The clutch is now completely soft. I ordered a new master and slave (might as well do them both since I have to open the system). Is this a sign of a bad master cylinder (not pushing much fluid)? I do not see any leaks in the metal line coming from the front of the car to the slave, nor any leaks in the braided portion. I just cant get any pressure on the pedal. I have Archies bleeding instructions and will follow them when I replace the cylinders. Another question is, my slave has the heat shield attached making it near impossible to push in the slave rod while it is attached to the mount. Does anyone have any advice on how to bleed the slave properly? Can I remove the bleeder and push the rod in and reattach bleeder before mounting the slave or should I leave the heat shield off? I also purchased Rodney Dickmans slave bleeder with the one way valve. I also want to pump out the 35 year old fluid completely (it looks like coca cola), how do I do this....Just keep adding and bleeding till clear fluid comes out the slave bleeder? Any advice or recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Questions recap:
1. Not getting much fluid when attempting to bleed....Is this a sign of a failed master?
2. How to bleed the slave when the heat shield prevents access to the rod? Or should I just leave the shield off?
3. How do I completely remove the old brake fluid?
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oneinch
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Report this Post11-15-2020 05:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for oneinchSend a Private Message to oneinchEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I recently replaced my master cylinder, line, and slave cylinder. I used no special tools or fixtures or the likes to bleed the system. I first 'bench' bled the MC while on the car. Hooked the new line to the MC. In back with the line hooked to the slave, I left the slave uninstalled with the push rod pointing towards the floor. This is easy since the clutch line here is a flex line. Positioned this wat the bleeder screw is at the top. My son would press once on the clutch and hold. I would pop the bleed screw and retighten. Rinse and repeat until fluid was pushed all the was back to the slave, filling it, and finally coming out the bleed screw. I kept an eye on the fluid level and had to top off several times. I was able to push the slave's rod in to make sure no air was in the cylinder. Once I was satisfied with the bleed I then actually bolted up the slave to the engine. This worked for me.

Yes, it sounds like your MC is bad. My slave doesn't have a heat shield. Could be previous owner removed it. I have no idea. Since you're thinking of replacing the MC and slave (I think it is a good idea), they'll be empty. Just blow out the line with air. Inspect your line thoroughly. Now is the time to replace it. Mine was corroded. The fitting at the slave was corroded to the line, not in the slave. When I turned it, it twisted the line breaking it. You're thinking of replacing two of the three parts. Go the whole nine yards and replace your line too. Doubtful you'll have to ever mess with your hydraulic clutch linkage again.

------------------
Stanton
'88 Formula, red on gray

[This message has been edited by oneinch (edited 11-15-2020).]

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Mct2green
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Report this Post11-15-2020 07:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mct2greenClick Here to Email Mct2greenSend a Private Message to Mct2greenEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
oneinch, thanks for the reply. I am gonna try it without replacing the line first. My car is rust free and I have already loosened the nut under the slave. I have inspected the line from front to back, its not rusted at all and isnt wet anywhere from a leak. Hopefully it is still as solid as it looks. I would like to not shell out $300 for a new clutch line. I will blow it out as you suggested though. I will try and bleed the slave by pushing the rod in before mounting it, I can do that with the heat shield on as long as its not moutned. Thanks again for your input.
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