What size of tubing? And I read a note from this other webpage it said make sure your bleeding equipment is the diaphragm type. Is there a kit you guys would recommend? Thanks

https://workshop-manuals.co...lic_system_bleeding/

Most important tool is a buddy's foot... and then a couple feet of tubing, a jar, new brake fluid, and a 10mm deep socket (for initial loosening of bleeder) and a 10mm boxend wrench (for loosening and tightening with tube in place).

Speedbleeder bleeders(Russell and Earl's make these), some clear 1/4" id tubing and an empty jar. With speeds you can do it all yourself.

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86 GT built 2.2 ecotec turbo
rear SLA suspension
QA1 coilovers on tube arms

quote Originally posted by wftb: Speedbleeder bleeders(Russell and Earl's make these), some clear 1/4" id tubing and an empty jar. With speeds you can do it all yourself.

After trying numerous method the best results I had were with the Russell Speed bleeders. They are basically one way bleeder valves. Install them back off ( in the required sequence) about 1/2 turn and pump the brakes a few times until the clear tuning shows no bubbles then go on to the next wheel.

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" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "

[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 11-03-2020).]

Yes, use 6 point socket to loosen.
If needed use "Freeze Lube" in the bleeder to loosen but Once crack open, close and flush any oil out using canned air etc.
If you can't get them loose using small wrench or 1/4" drive handle, Stop and wait for lube in "freeze lube" to work a day or more. Respray as needed. Repeated freezing and its "oil" and similar methods may work over some time. Many bleeders are "welded" solid by Dissimilar Metal Rot same as many bolts on boats.

Once you get OE type bleeders loose...
1. remove the bleeders, clean and lube threads w/ Brake Grease. Do Not use anything else.
2. install them and tighten hand tight.
3. install any crap hose to drain in old can/bottle that can be trashed after.
4. loosen just a crack to bleed by whatever method but know that "pedal bleeding" can make MC problems.
5. Tighten a very tiny bit over "hand tight." Fluid + Grease + Aluminum caliper can strip the threads very easy.
6. When Done flush bleeder w/ air and get "rubber" caps for the bleeders. Carefully use a rag over air hose to stop fluid spraying.

See my Cave, Brake Service and Bleeding MC notes

1. The grease not only lube the treads but act as anti seize and sealer for people using vacuum bleeding. Normal anti-seize won't work w/ brake fluid.

3. has crap hose etc is because most won't have to bleed again for years.
If you get used O2 hoses from Doctor etc... The tapered joints molded onto the tubes fit most bleeders well.
Is why I try to save O2 and some IV tubes if I go to ER etc for any reason.
(IV parts to give you "water" or "sugar" is safe to save but don't save anything w/ any drugs. Many drugs, not just pain killers, are "Controlled Substances" that can get you jailed just having any amount.)

"Speed Bleeders" are good way to have stuck/frozen bleeders next time because will keep fluid in the bleeder "under" the valve that will draw water and often "rust" solid.
More so if you live near ocean or state uses road salt in winter.
Is only really good for racers etc that bleed often.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 11-03-2020).]

quote Originally posted by theogre: 4. loosen just a crack to bleed by whatever method but know that "pedal bleeding" can make MC problems.

When I referred to using a buddy's foot earlier, I probably should've also mentioned not pushing the brake pedal to the floor... as yes, that would move the master cylinder's piston to a position in the bore not normally traveled, and it could be pitted/corroded/rough.

Forgot to add...

⚠️ Warning:
DOT 3 4 & 5.1 Brake Fluid can damage things other then wrecking painted parts and is poison.
All types, including DOT 5 Silicone, are HAZMAT and illegal to dump or trash used fluid in many places.
DIY use... Try "calling" city etc Solid Waste dept for local home HAZMAT dump events.

My 2 cents.

In MN, the hardest part is often getting the dang bleeders to break free. Be careful not to snap them off - it is a fine line that you just develop a feel for after breaking a bunch off ....If you cant get the bleeders out, find a good vid on heating the bleeders to break the dis-similar metal bond that has formed.

Be careful with solvents and oils - even the smallest amount of petroleum-based fluid can cause a lot of damage to the brake caliper.

Good luck!

[This message has been edited by DimeMachine (edited 11-04-2020).]

quote Originally posted by DimeMachine: In MN, the hardest part is often getting the dang bleeders to break free.

Believe me, it's not just in MN that snapping off the bleeders is a huge problem!